thriller

AE86

^ Agreed. More often than not it screams out 'cheap'. I saw an EG civic with a rusty hood and horribly fitting chrome wheels at my work carpark the other night. Not nice. IMO it's pretty hard to get right. Mike Burrough's old E28 bmw springs to mind. Can't really explain why. But none of those S30's do it for me; don't like when they're that low.

It happens plenty often. A friends dad was offered ~$2,000+ in the street by a stranger for the plates 1408. Anyway I thought we got past this after the first time.

Nice work! Have you started stripping down at all? Hilux calipers (S12+8 I think is the name/casting?) are popular. Otherwise if you want to keep it Nissan then Sumitomoto MK63 calipers were an option (I think..?) for the Z's. Who knows RE price though. For the rears, R31 or 280zx rear disc upgrades have been covered in the tech sections here, or I see lots of willwood upgrades going on for the high-budget builds. This is all referring to the Z's, I can only guess that the K will be the same.

Hey mate. If you decide to start cutting up the shell and post I'll buy both foot-wells (like front/firewall area), battery tray area, probably a couple of other bits too. If not, all good. Best of luck Cheers, Ryan

Anyone know the survival rate of the 240z? Like how many are still around compared to how many built? Awesome photo by the way.

Rails look good. Color looks good. Car looks good. Orange seems to be the new in thing for Z's! Can definitely see why.

Family friend who was a toyota mechanic for 30 years or something ridiculous had one of these at some point. Anyway he dumped the L24 once the head was gone and put a holden 186 in it, said it was the best thing he ever did hahaha.

Bugger. Saw they were totally different lengths, don't really know jack about the insides. Was kinda hoping haha. Not really too fussed about it, just thought that if I could, why not since it'd be free. Thanks for the help though!

Spot on. Do I need any fancy tools or is it a backyard jobby? Thanks for the info RE rpm/speed too.

Pulled the diff cover off of my old S13 single spinner that's been under the house to calculate the ratio, turns out it's a 4.11. Nice. It's an R180 unit (I replaced with an R200 2-way LSD). Would I be able to swap the internals with the 240Z diff unit (which is a 3.9?). Also, anyone with a 4.11 know what the revs are like on the freeway in 5th with the 71A box? Cheers.

The price of parts is so much higher too. What cost me $140 for a center console here would have been more than double to get landed from J-land. Sellers should get a translator and advertise it back to the motherland, would probably get the asking price every time.

I've always wondered what an S20 would sell for on its own. Never been able to see? Doesn't look like the Z432 has many differences. Exhaust, badges, grille, S1 interior and hatch, doesn't have the S1 C pillars though...?

Thanks PeterAllan (and everyone else!). Exactly what I'm after. Time to get gritty with the wire brush and prep it all then. EDIT: I must ask as I'm about to strip the engine down... I love revvy engines, so what kind of bits should I be collecting for the rebuild? I'm thinking lightweight flywheel, higher comp pistons (no clue where to find or what I can use though?), decent sized cam and ~40-44mm() webers/dellortos/mikuni/etc. Honestly I'm not too clued in on what cam specs I'd need, if anything should be done to the head, blah blah blah. Every time I search all I see is stroked out L28's built for grunt. Any wisdom to impart, L6 gurus? Also diff ratios etc...

Hmmm, I don't reckon so... It's a perfect seal all around? Not sure it would even fit upside down? Maybe the front on pic is a bit deceiving And yup, done the clock too! Wouldn't powdercoating be a nono for bits like the driveshafts and anything with a UV joint? Thinking maybe a combination of that + chassis paint. Also, mine's not the worst... I heard an early VIN (like double digits) Z was being used as a chicken coop at one point hahah

Been a while... S13 has been diverting my attention, but now that she has coilovers, R32 front brakes, Nardi wheel, new tires and a whoooole bunch of other goodies I'm happy enough with it not to spend any more money. So attention back on the Z. Some kind of animal made a nest in the air duct here haha: So I pulled it all out: Decided to rip the gauges apart: Before and after: Nice and shiny: Happy with how the tacho and speedo turned out! Can see the numbers reflecting off of the black surround. Will look pretty cool when I'm driving it one day hahah. Anyway on to other things. I want to get all the underside components (driveshafts, tailshaft, xmembers, whishbones, blah blah) done black. What is the most durable/cost effective/whatever way to do it? Is blasting then powdercoating going to be the most durable? I realize I won't be able to do it near the UV joints or any splines, so maybe hit those (and other fine detail) areas which chassis black paint? Or just hit it all with chassis black? Any personal experience, tips, etc would be appreciated. Needs to be durable, I do actually want to spend enough time driving it to justify building it.

Got some balls man! Great story. Car looks really good too.

Keen to post stuff? Might grab the spoiler if you are.

Looks fun. What's the build number? I didn't know they made S1's into 1971. What're your plans for a finished product?

Is there much interior stuff left? If someone wants to do some shopping for me I'm happy to give $30 or so for getting and packing and then + postage on top.

Whoa postage costs! What's with that? Do all the coupe Z's share the same door cards?

It seems the entire system is a bit of a mess here. From public transport to driver education to quality of roads, etc etc. The funny thing about safety and old cars, is that if you make an old car anywhere near as safe as a new car (upgrade suspension, brakes, cages, wider wheels, whatever), you'll get a defect and the car will never see the road again. But drive around in a 40 year old kingswood with half a floor and no-one will even bat an eyelid. I know it's so much harder to police shitty and inattentive driving than it is to hand out canary's, so that's where re-testing of licenses should come into play. And the point about new cars being too expensive; I agree completely. Only in Australia though, where any half-decent brand new car will be in the region of $40,000+. Better public transport (and the incentive to use it) would be nice too. I catch the bus 5 days a week and the only driving I ever do is 5km down the street to work and the bus stop, and a bit of a bash through the hills once a week or less. It's also a joke how easy it is to get your licence here. Back in highschool, the quality of driving by every single P plater was on average, frightening. Literally all you have to do to be able to drive a car on our roads is: -pass a theory test with 8 questions about giving way -forge anywhere from half of your required hours driving with a parent (nobody checks, I think everyone was guilty of adding a few extra hours on) -spend 30 minutes with an instructor in the car sticking to speed limits, indicating and stopping for stop The number of kids who wrote off a car within 2 years of getting their licence was also pretty staggering (myself included, for exactly what I'm advocating here...). I don't think it's going to get any better for a long time either.

Can imagine my sale ad now: Item: Lifesize realistic 240z spaghetti strainer Price: $3500. Will look great in the kitchen. Perfect for outdoor dinner entertainment! Doubles as an excellent garden sculpture.

Give it some time mate. If this was for sale when I bought mine, I would already have given you the full $3500 and it'd be on a truck to Adelaide. Fact I'd swap mine for this, but who'd be stupid enough to do that? hahaha.

You can have a go reskinning the dash yourself, there's a great guide on these forums (search for DIY dash reskin 240s or something). Much much much cheaper than a new or refurbd dash