Patch

240 motor on ebay at the moment out of a 240k if some one wants a high revving 260 the crank and rods will fit your 260 block going cheap at $100 starting price in SA http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DATSUN-240K-240Z-L24-ENGINE-/120754987476?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1d8ee1d4

There is a fiberglass bonnet on ebay at the moment runs out 8 hours http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/240z-260z-fibreglass-bonnet-/190558499119?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5e2bf12f

My 71 doesn't have one either

I can see it gets a lot of guests in here, 49 and 11 members. Locking threads to members is not going to stop what happened, giving too much personal information does that and main thing you shouldn't do is let people know you are away from your property, and if it is a car event organized get somebody to look after your place that day. One of the bike forums I belong to have a guest section which we make easy for spys to read and any thing we want known to anybody goes in there and then associate members section which you only need email address to get into, and then we have a full members section and to be a full member you have to give more information and we organize get together's and more personal stuff, I have actually had an AGM of full members at my place with 30 camping over and had no fear of any of them stealing stuff.

Good to hear but sadly the only way to confirm this is a nice tree planted on top.

I run a business from home and am not concern with any one coming back to rob me, I am more concerned about my neighbor, as he can see when I leave and lock the gate, and is why I insist that my lady doesn't get to friendly with them , as if they come down socially they get to see things the others would not, and having the advantage of knowing you are gone. I prefer to just keep it a friendly wave at the top of the gate and the old friendly chat at the gate. When my dad died and we went to the funeral my sister got robbed, and she hardly ever leaves home. Just a word of warning normally when you have been robbed once, they know the lay out and what else you have and generally come back.

Sorry to hear this shit Peter. just my 2 cents worth, If this was a random hit by your normal druggy looking for a quick score of easy salable stuff, not knowing Peter or what he has, the most easier stuff to move would be tools and I am sure he would have a big range of stuff doing what he does. If no tools were taken it looks like a thief to order, a customer has given him the address and information and he is getting paid for the order, most likely the motor, they have taken just the motor parts to fill the order. I would say the person who placed the order is some one who has been to your place and knows your lay out and know what security you have in place. I was involved in the capture of a druggy who made the mistake of casing my joint out, They just drove down my drive 200m off the road where nobody could see them, and when they seen me they made up a story about looking for a car for sale, and they forgot the number, I took down the rego number and rung the cops and said if any body gets broken in today these will be the boys, They went around the corner and robbed another house, The owner contacted all the places that might buy jewel and they were caught selling it, my info put them at the scene. Most forums I belong to have a member's only section.

In NZ we were free to do any v8 mods, only had to take the car for a road worthy every 6 months, and basically as long as you had guards over the tires and blinkers and lights worked all was fine, We stuck V8s into all soughs of cars, a big one done a lot was the Morris Minor sleeper and if it had not been done before, well somebody would do it, even to the point of being the first to stick a big block into a mini, problems started to show and I have seen a mk3 Cortina with a 350 chev tearing the body apart, Okay I read the same story with that 289 Z, but bear in mind it may have been same weight but you have doubled the HP and tork. Personally all should be engineered inspection and approved , with beefed up suppression brakes and Diff and some sought of chassis mod. I personally stuck a 283 in my daily ride MK 3 Zephyr, blew the 6 and started Friday and drove out Sunday ready for work with the V8 in it, nothing done other than the engine swap, I could not afford to keep the petrol up to it, with not changing the diff it just screamed and lost the top speed of the car, Quick up to 90mph but that was all it would do. Not sure if they are still aloud to do it, I think the laws changed as people were killing them selfs.

I painted a Mk 3 Zephyr that colour 25 years ago, it showed up every imperfection in the body and looked shocking in the sun as even the sanding marks showed up, I did another coat over top with sliver glitter in the paint with a glass marble, helps stir the paint, just give it a shake to keep the glitter moving, I then done the same with clear and glitter , and then just clear on top. Changes a car from just looking basic paint job to one that looked out standing, the glitter up sets the light and all the imperfections went away, any where I went people would comment on the paint job as you could see the depth in the paint with the different layers, no one noticed any imperfections in it after that.

While we are bringing in fits and limits I will let you in on a bit of old Kiwi ingenuity that we used to do years ago, pistons were very expensive and if the bores were not to bad you would separate the rods from the pistons and after you have honed the bores and taken the ridge off the top you would insert the correct old piston into the bore upside down and tighten 2 bolts with a long nut in between the rod bore on the piston skirts, you tighten this until the piston grabs you do this at the bottom of the bore, now pull the piston out hold over a vice so the bolts can fall out and you heat the skirts until the bolts fall out and let to cool down, this stops any piston slap. We would also keep the old oil control rings and machine the top and second ring grove so it is now square again and put the old oil control ring as a spacer. now we would buy 10 tho over size rings and gap them to the std bores, and just check to make sure each piston fits with out grabbing if so just a bit of sanding to fit. Refit the rods and rings, this process was quite common and could be done at most machine shops. This process you could get another 60k miles before it needed re boring. now pistons are cheap it would not be done much now.

Google can help with every thing . Your Answer… You asked: .060 inch converted to millimeters inch inch millimetre millimetre 1.52 millimetres Standard bore size is 86mm Maximum overbore with out sonic testing 2.0mm or O.080-in

Just confirming what I have been told by son in law who does the mod plates here, Qld has had mod plates 10-15 years nsw and Vic had Engineers cert approval , about 1.5 years ago a national Mod plate system has been bought in and what I said is correct if you drove up here with no mod plate you will be defected. He was saying depending on engine size he does the inspection and issues the plate which is not that expensive if every thing has been done to a road worthy standard, over a certain engine size it needs engineering before he can give a mod plate. He just runs a normal workshop who does road worthy with mod plate approvals.

With the rules in Qld if you get a doggy road worthy and take the car to another place for a road worthy and it is shown that it is a doggy you can go them for the costs to make it road worthy, or he can loose his license and that is his cost for doing it, I can get roadworthy for my self but he only does them if he knows who is buying the car and it is not for sale to other unknown. If the car is rego and he supplies the road worth worthy you will be fine until you need to get one to sell the car, or they change the rules, I am not 100% sure on all the rules though out Australia but in Qlds if you got pulled up by the cops for a rego check you would have to show your mod plate, if you have not got one you will be given a red sticker and will have to tow your car home and off the road until you get your mod plate, only way to get that is an engineers approval of the mods and correct paper work submitted. A lot would depend on the buying price of the car and what motor is in it, what diff has it got in it, will it scream doing 100ks and have a top speed of 140ks and do 3 mile to the gallon , or has it been set up right with correct running gear.

Redbook is about right for a going car, with no redgo or road worthy it would be worth trade in value. It is a bad time to sell cars at the moment and real cheap buys around. http://www.redbook.com.au/used-cars/details.aspx?R=55746&__Qpb=1&Cr=2&__Ns=p_Make_String|0||p_ClassificationType_String|0||p_Family_String|0||p_Year_String|1||p_SequenceNum_Int32|0&__N=2994%204294961895%204294843648%204294965481&silo=1300&seot=1&__Nne=3&__No=1&trecs=4&__sid=130F5532FB9E

You will probably find it was already had rego and he has done the swap and just put on the forms the engine number and maybe the cc, as it was already rego didn't go over the pits, and the dumb bird at the rego office did not know that 5000 cc is a V8, so they would have no knowledge it has been changed to a V8. Now if you buy it some one will have to get a road worthy, and unless it is done underhanded and the Guy giving the road worthy is prepared to loose everything you will not be able to get a road worthy. If it is sold no rego then it will have to go under the pits, no hope at all with out the mod plate. If he has done what I think , you will probably find nothing has been done to any standard and you will have trouble getting an engineer to sign off on it.Could end up a very expensive exercise resulting in the car only good for parts. Sounds like it is the yellow and black one in Sydney cars sales.?? To get it rego in any state it will need to compliance with a a mod plate. We could get away with this in New Zealand but not Australia

If you can give me the measurements of the lights I can do it better , I have my 240 here to compare sizes, just need the size of those lights, other wise I am just guessing sizes. Is there only 10mm clearance around the lights and the red body.?

You really need to know what there size is compared to the 240 , they look higher. here is a 240z I was playing with, I quite like them, as the 240 has the plastic chrome which needs fixing.

Here is one done on 260z hard to find the same back shot for a 240z

Found this on the Hartly V8 H1 V8 pricing 2.8 liter V8, approximately 400 hp. Engine is inclusive of hardware as described below.... $27,700 · 6061-T6 Billet crankcase, sump, front cover and rear cover · Reconditioned Suzuki parts- heads, cylinders and throttle bodies. Heads are reconditioned with ground valves and seat, and new seals. Cylinders are bored to 84mm and NSC plated. · Billet crankshaft- 63mm stroke · Engine mounted sensors · H-beam 4340 billet connecting rods with ARP custom age bolts · Starter and 55amp mini alternator · 4 stage Pace or Aviaid dry sump 0il pump · Small flywheel for 5.5” clutch or large flywheel for 7.25” clutch · Custom rear engine adapter plate for popular gearboxes · 40mm billet velocity stacks and adapter seals · Test run engine · Installation Manual* Technical support as required for successful installation and operation · Box and skid as required for shipping Popular options for H1V8 (other options are available).... Ø 67mm stroke crankshaft upgrade 3.0 liter version of engine and related modifications to deck height and cam chains...$1,200 Ø DTA engine management system with software and connector kit…$1,800 Ø Programming of screens and integration of X-Dash unit …$150 Ø Performance modifications (cams and CNC ported heads) …POR

Just in case you don't understand about "Rated Output @ Duty Cycle 130A/20.5V @ 10% Duty Cycle" It means you can weld at full power 150A for 10 min's non stop in a 100 min's, It would be fine for panel work as you will be stop and starting all the time, but not if you are going to do a lot of welding you would want at least 210amp to get the duty cycle up a little higher and weld thicker steel Just looking on site not sure if this can use gas or is just gasless, I wouldn't buy just a gasless welder, they weld like shit far better with gas

If all you want to do is learn to weld and only light panel work nothing thicker than 4mm It would be fine, if you do too much with it you will just have to take up smoking or drinking while it cools down, The fact it will do gas and gasless is a bonus, I bought one like this years ago for home when they first came out, got rid of it as gasless wire was to dear to buy and welds like shit, but I have 3 phases 300s Any thing thicker you will need to use your ark.

An Old mate of mine who does lots with older cars swears by using Methylated Spirits to free up locked up rust, I tried it the first time on freeing up my motor that has been sitting for 10 years, soaked it over night down the plug holes, and got movement the next day with a screw driver on the fan pulley back and forwards, yet I could not get movement with WD40, Soaked it again for another day and no problems to turn over by fan complete turns. I filled it up again and a week later spun it with the start motor, haven't started it yet got to sort out spark and fuel issues. He said he has found it the best as it eats away the rust.

Check here for more info from this site. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2675.0.html

More info here, pretty sure all L either 4 or 6 have the same bolt pattern. Looks like it comes from a skyline. Unsure if it will work. http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Stumpy

Just spotted this on e-bay 2 seater 260z buy it now 11k or offer http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-260z-Sports-1976-2D-Coupe-5-SP-Manual-2-6L-/160597565851?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item25645c619b