Ledge

A decent operator shouldn't stuff a panel up no matter what the media is. We use Soda on the external surface as the finish is like smooth steel from the factory. This means we don't go through 20 files whilst metal finishing the panels. cheers

When I get stuff done I get sand inside, underneath and engine bay. Then Soda on all external surfaces. This costs more but it is a better finish. Z is around 1500. Depending on amount of paint that needs to come off. cheers

Announcements will be made by major sponser soon.

Yeah I love the sound of that Mazdy. I am going to be there but lets just say I should have time to catch up with some of you NSW folk

Knackers my Glass one came from Alpha Motorsport in Vic think it was 400. or as Roger said

Ummmm

George I think if your patient and keep on the lookout for bargains your numbers wont be far off. Interior I think is your biggest under estimate. I would almost double what you have there. For elec maybe contact vintage wiring harness in Vic. they do a great job. Not sure if they have done a Z but most of there full loom rewires are under 1000. Just send them your old buggered loom and they copy it. cheers Paul

Same as all the Repro stuff, They aren't perfect but a lot less work then fixing badly rusted and damaged guards. Depends weather you want factory bits I guess

HI Chaps Don't be to harsh, The owner has had Zeds and has been using the forum for a while. Just because he doesn't post much doesn't mean anything. I have met him a couple of times when he came into a shop I used to work at. The car had been basically written off after a month of being missing. The owner was a day away from getting his pay out when the car was found. So the insurance company withheld the payout. Now the insurance company has contacted me to Quote on fixing. Which I have done over 3 weeks ago and still waiting to hear what they are doing. All this time the owner has had no car and no money to buy another!. I feel really sorry for the guy to be honest. Cheers

Its pretty simple. even the latch setup in the lid swaps over. The only issue will be the catch you need to cut and reglue the correct way and the spring you need to carefully bend the other way.

Here is the same USDM console, But ive converted the lid to open the correct way for RHD Sorry about the poor pic quality

When your on the road I might organize another get together at my shop so everyone can have a look at the 2 swiss cheese Zeds.

Cars looking great Mate. That motor sounded great in Jasons car. Did need a freshen up though. ITB's for the win. Cant wait to see this car in the flesh. Cheers Paul

Hmmm cant remember that conversation, Sure you didn't dream that one? Looking forward to getting dirty on this Z George. My last email to George I made him well of the cheaper options. His response was simply" I will let you know when the car is coming" Sometimes its about what the car is, not what it costs. Cheers

^^ ^^

No, Its good to listen to others opinions. But that is all they are Opinions. Do what you want to YOUR car. If the car is something special or rare be at least a little sympathetic to the cars heritage If I listened to people I wouldn't have done this

LOL Knackers I think that shop was also doing the CF-L conversion with the RB30 head like mine. I cant find it now though. IMO I think they have butchered a rare motor. put a bloddy RB in it if you want that. Cheers

Diff sorted Thanks chaps

I Have been pm'd will see how that goes.

As the title says chaps Im after an R200 Long, 3.9 ratio with LSD Cheers

I have a B box with Holinger gears. maybe check if they still do them cheers

White, black bonnet flares and bobtail. Gunmetal rims.

HI Peter I cut mine 25mm lower than Dave says on his How To page. I found its about spot on for what I need. I would probably cut them at the length specified and put them on the car with no welds, and no springs then get the car and tyre to the height you want with jacks and stands. Have the coil over exactly half way down the threaded section so you will have plenty of adjustment up and down from your desired ride height. If it is still to high cut it then till its right, Tack weld it like that in the car then remove and fully weld. Because the rear has the long bolt through the bottom I would definitely set it up in the car dry and tack weld in place. you wouldn't have to be out by much to put extra load on the rear arms. Front doesn't matter that much as it is a ball joint on the bottom. Hope this helps Regards Paul

Fire away mate