Zedsabbath

That fixes Brabham, keep an eye out for that bottom half wontcha scoot

What I was thinking of making next were moulds for hard to get firewall and other grommets....when I pour the liquid into a larger moulds I always make sure I've mixed a little more than I need, it's good practice, I found out the hard way...but what I do is have a much smaller moulds prepared ready to go and pour the left over into those...years ago I used Roadster front end grease boot moulds for that purpose, guess what ? still got a lot of those boots hanging around here, they're still good too..gotta keep them out of direct sunlight though but otherwise they last forever...resist oil, petrol and grease, I did all the tests years ago

Salty, you can get those on US eBay

I'll be shipping a pair to the US, I promised one set to an enthusiast over there so NZ will be no problem...but we're getting a little ahead of ourselves, while all the different rubbers I've made in the past have been successful, these boot moulds are not finished yet and will need testing...testing involves checking how well the liquid pours into the mould (very important) and then checking the cured boot and hinge in the car Pete

Yes just added you to the list Z I keep forgetting to sign off as "Pete", must remember that from now on A timeline for finishing the left mould would be about a month, maybe a little more, the right side one which took nearly 2 months, working on it an hour a night, but since I've gained the experience from making that one, the left mould will get done quicker I'll be testing the right mould soon, then after I've inspected the first boot and tried it in my 240 for fit I'll post some photos 12 years has elapsed since I last made rubbers and metal castings, had to dig deep to remember a few tricks but they came back With hinge boots there's a little preparation to do before you fit them, I'll post about that too but you can either fit them right or make a mess of it....one thing that needs looking at first up is the square openings the boots fit into, they must be free of burrs and corners of ill fitting panels, one of mine was like that so out came the file! filed it off Pete

The topic is "Sydney 240 fan" in Introductions mossy It's me who is making the rubber boots and I've nearly finished the right side mould, about another day and it'll be done, then I'll start on the left side mould I'll post when they're finished, I've got the list of people on here who want a set and for the time being they will be made exclusively for those members and any other member here who orders a set....the reason being is that I can't mass produce them like sausages out of a sausage machine, I can only make one set a day or one set every other day if you know what I mean

I just checked out my original matting, it's still stuck to the transmission hump without the vinyl on it and it's a dense fibrous material gone a bit hard probably from age but it's 10mm thick and covers the whole hump with a 3" by 4" cutout for the hand brake and a long cutout on top from the rear end of the ash tray to the dash

What about a bonnet catch ? the one that bolts to the firewall bracket...definite sale if you've got one

Two more have jogged my memory...from Dalby to Kingaroy in Qld, a good road and a pleasant drive The other memorable road was from Tumut to the Snowy (I stopped at Talbingo) but the road was smooth and rut free...the scenery wasn't bad either, on that cool and frosty morning lol

Looks like the original shims are missing from behind your hatch door hinges Bobs, if they were in place the door would sit back and avoid scraping the paint...Have fun restoring the car, looks ok Pete

I don't think I've seen a better lookin' Zed rev, if i can get mine looking half as good I'll be over the moon...top job mate, very impressive and inspirational Pete

There is sheets of black gasket paper you can by at any auto parts or accessory shop but some don't stock it anymore because of lack of sales I think but it comes in lengths plenty long enough for a rocker cover gasket Photo shows a bit left over from gasket making that I've done here at home...it comes in two thicknesses and the bit shown is the thin size...the thick size would be best for a rocker cover gasket If you use only a sealant, I'd recommend Loctite no 3 aviation gasket sealant but the surfaces must be totally free of oil and apply a thin coating to both surfaces...leave a while before starting your engine....best to have a gasket though! You should also be able to buy thin neoprene cork (more readily available than the black paper I mentioned above) at SuperCheap Autos and others stores If ever a paper or cork sheet is too short, you can always "dovetail" sections of a gasket, dovetail shown in 2nd and 3rd photos Pete

I'd say when you get it repaired provide some extra drain holes Pete....two things are vital to preventing rust, three things really, they are (1) drain holes big enough so they don't easily get blocked (2) air circulation and (3) an oil based protective If water gets through the bolts holes where your door catches are bolted onto the door jamb, it will drip down and cause rust if the sills internally are bare metal ...so sealing those door catches would probably be a good idea...also check the door bumper rubber, if it's missing, water can get through that hole...another place is under the kick plates, seal the screws that hold them down but seal them UNDER the plate, sealing them on top won't do anything But mainly it's all about drainage and air circulation, solve those and you're just about there Just as a side note, when I had my Skyline station wagon, I noticed that the very front of the engine (body) subframe was wide open, unlike my Zed which is blocked off...the Skyline obviously allows air to pass right through the subframe....to prevent rusting maybe ? The reason I checked this out on the wagon was because the Zed has no similar opening, and I was comparing a later Nissan to an earlier Nissan, in this case a Datsun...so I'm thinking about drilling some neat 1"holes there to provide extra air circulation

There's a restorer in the US acf321, who sells full length "licorice" (one piece, not 3 piece), Banzai Motorworks is the business...you could try emailing them Pete PS I believe the "L" shape was made and fitted after a certain model year but I'm not sure when...I bought that same 3 piece style you bought but I sent mine back for a refund, it's not what I want for my Zed, I'm going for a one piece, I'll either buy one eventually or make one...I do think you'll need to glue on what ever rubber you use there because there's not really enough "bite" to hold tight on the pinch weld

Yes your engine may need rebuilding but do a compression test to see if the compression figures are within specs, if they are, proceed.... To adjust valve lash start with no 1 cylinder, turn motor over by hand until no 6 is "rocking", which means one valve going down as one is just coming up...the valves at no 1 cylinder are ready then to adjust because they are clear of the cam lobes, so adjust them with correct thickness feeler guages To adjust no 2 cylinder, get no 5 "rocking" To adjust no 3 cylinder, get no 4 "rocking" To adjust no 4 cylinder, get no 3 "rocking" To adjust no 5 cylinder, get no 2 "rocking" To adjust no 6 cylinder, get no 1 "rocking" Geezz lurch, is this a public forum for everyone to learn, or for private phone calls ? come on mate

This auction has just finished but I wanted to show you what sort of money you'd need to bid if you were after an earlier heater console There has been two of these NOS consoles lately on US eBay, the first went for $US324 with only one bidder...but this second one has just went for $100 bucks more at $US424 with 5 bidders participating $US425 converts to $500 Aussie dollars then of course there is shipping, so all up it would have cost an Aussie winning bidder about $A520-$A530...wowee Where's that plastic chromer again ? mine needs doing ! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230484116865&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_2064wt_1167

Just donated 10 smackaroos, I'm on a Mac too hehe, no probs

If you're looking for a new heater control valve at a reasonable price there's 3 available on US eBay at $28 each, "buy it now" I've seen others going for upwards of $80 so these Nissan valves would be a good buy, value for money I'd say Pete http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-Heater-Control-Valve-Water-Cock-70-73-NEW-/290443358716?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item439fc5f1fc#ht_1840wt_1167

I'd like to know what's "Turbo" about that engine...looks just like the old slogger in ex Skyline, nothing turbo about that I can assure you but an excellent engine all the same, at one stage I was thinking about fitting one in my 240 before fuel prices went through the roof...oh and cost of distributor modules

Howdy zzzzzed Firstly how old is your battery ? it might have seen better days...probably getting it load tested would be a good idea to see how well it will hold a charge If your battery is in good nic then check your charge rate...it should be over 13 volts (just because the light on your dash doesn't come on while you're driving doesn't mean your charge rate is correct, it could be too low to keep the battery charged sufficiently) If both the battery and charge rate are good...turn everything off and make sure the doors are closed then undo one of the battery cables from the battery, lift the cable up and then just tap it back on the battery terminal lightly...see if there is a small spark each time you tap it...this usually indicates current is being drawn from something in the car, it may be the clock, some accessory light always on...or a short circuit You may have to disconnect the clock and anything else that's permanently on to locate a short circuit If by this time there is no small spark at the battery terminal when you tap it with the cable, there will in all likelyhood be no short circuit See how you go Pete

Say again...which Mack truck was the engine out of ?

Your bumper needs a new coat of Silverfrost scoot

I'll have to do the same Dave, file away until I get them in there...maybe American Zeds have a larger opening to start with, I don't know but I did enquire with the dealer before buying mine and he said "I've sold many of these handles and never had any complaints"...no one is game to tell him I'll bet I suggested to another dealer that his handles won't fit straight in the Aussie Zed door because of the protruding rivet heads and he just said "Thanks for the advice".....and he gleefully continues to sell worldwide Then there is z connection, a US dealer, he has the correct handles with rivets short enough to fit without butchering your door but he doesn't mail internationally....You can't win can ya ! Another thing to watch on eBay is NOS or New badges (emblems)...they can have small bubbles in the chrome or other defects that will turn you off when you finally get them in your hot little hands...the only thing I can advise here is if the description photo is dark or shadowy, be wary...chrome needs full light coverage in the photo before you'll see how good it is, or not good Pete

One pair of used exterior door handles no reserve in US...starting off at $US1 Has anyone noticed the new handles on eBay ? and some described as NOS but if you buy them you need to file or cut the opening where the handle fits in to make them fit...the rivets on these new handles which have the return springs on them protrude out making it impossible to slide the handles in the door without enlarging the openings first...bit of a bummer Pete http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-240Z-SERIES-ONE-DOOR-HANDLES-NO-RESERVE-/230481162490?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35a9bf70fa#ht_559wt_1167

Come on guys help NZed out here, it can't be that difficult to remember what happened to the badges...Lurch, who did you give them to, was it a stranger not on these boards ? do the right thing and reply to NZed