Zedsabbath

Shipping for mine was $US80, dealer though, not private seller...dollar exchange then was an extra 8%, now it's 18% With private sellers it pays to amicably negotiate with them after you've thoroughly read the USPS site and know all your US postal facts and figures...but do it well before the auction ends.... Pete

I've got similar problem Spa, old one is busted in two so went on eBay to grab anything that was in one piece, got one but it's only in fair condition so I'm after a better one now, I'll keep you in mind if I get lucky and get a good one Did you you see those brand new ones on eBay? bidding got to $US350 Then there was some good used ones, I kept missing out on them because I was at work at end of bidding each time Pete

Captain Cook Highway is a real auto buffs' and visual experience, further north than Mossman it satisfies all your senses, well for me, it did 35 yrs ago Pete

Gasolene that's the one

Thanks for that tip Lurch...I guess the thing to avoid is overheating the metal so it doesn't distort the skin, I'll be very careful and sparing with the heat...I think annealing is a good idea, even standard practice too I think among professionals Actually my old skins or at least one of them has had the treatment that MaygZ just talked about, replaced bottom 3 inches...but probably done without removing skin first, rego job most likely, heaps of bog to finish off So to answer MaygZ's question, remove skin first for the best job....if you learn how to fuse weld with an oxy you'll save yourself a lot of heartache...and of course panel beating but yes it is very possible and feasible to replace that narrow bottom section, it's a dying art though, thankfully there's that show on TVS channel, forget what it's called now but lots of good tips on panel work No worries there Lurch, you read my mind, gunna change my ID soon, already have one in mind, wait for it !........

So how did you anneal them Lurch, without spoiling the skins...I'll be re-skining mine some time in the future, got two Rare Spares skins here ready to go Pete A supplementary question : What to do with the old skins if they only have small rust holes ? toss em or hang on to them

I'm ashamed of you Pete, putting that toy of a thing in your Zed...is it going in your car ? I hope not

Are you trying to bleed by yourself ? if you are it's not easy to do You'll need a jam jar and a piece of clear plastic tube that fits tightly over the slave cylinder bleed nipple...put it on then stick the tube in the jar, watch it doesn't fall over Get someone to push the pedal to the floor...or get a piece of timber and jamb it so it holds the pedal down Open the s/c bleed nipple and watch the air and fluid come through the clear tube Repeat till there is no more air, just fluid...close nipple then try clutch

Welcome Coxy, keep an eye on Dad he doesn't commandeer your Zed

Are these what they look like ? These are useless to me, not 240

That other hole you think is a push rod hole is for the return spring...there's no spring there at all, bad blue

rb30x, The push rod looks nice and straight so it can't be pushing the piston off to one side..which can cause leakage past the seal or seals..how many seals does that m/c have on the piston ? The leakage out the boot could be natural seepage you get in any cylinder...are you constantly topping up the reservoir ?

Can't be sure Hammer, but I felt over the moon when I found a good shell, it wasn't such a bargain and still needed a bit of repair work to make it tip top I envy the new owner of that survivor though, the seller must have been hard up for cash, I'd never have sold it Pete

That surviver in the States I mentioned a few posts back just sold a half an hour ago...I was watching the bidding for the last minute, it went like this : one minute to go, 9 bids $8,400.......50 secs to go, 10 bids $9,400.......2 secs to go, 11 bids $9,589 Been in storage for half it's life and rust free to boot http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170484106771&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_500wt_1182 Enjoy, Pete

Why not buy some lead additive for your unleaded petrol Or you can get hard valve seats fitted in the head...plus more durable valves than standard ones Other posters might know about more about it for Zeds Pete

Yes there must be a small amount of free play between the piston and pedal rod Pete As far as leakage is concerned, possibly they were installing second hand m/cylinders do you think ? and not set up right...they could leak due to wear, then on top of that being asked to do a different clutch job to it's original intention ie working the clutch in a strange car...if they are using new m/c s' then yes the strong pressure plates could be causing excessive pressure on the piston seals in both m/c and s/c There is also the length of the thrust race fork, that is the ratio from the pivot to each end...check that out, it's important Then there's the pedal position in relation to the time when the clutch plate is released, the instant it is released that is....this may not sound relevant but the m/c piston could be in the wrong position when the clutch plate just becomes free of the flywheel and p/plate But if the leak is inside the m/c itself, how do they know it's leaking past the seals ? if the piston travels too far or is in the wrong position at any stage of it's movement according to where it should be, fluid can't flow down from the reservoir ports or flows into the wrong place...so it's important that the seals can pick up fresh fluid each time the pedal is pressed...the seals must be behind the ports when pedal is up...that's why there should be free play at plunger rod When the pedal is pushed, the piston seals must then pick up fresh fluid and the seal must travel past the port...sealing the fluid in front of the seals which in turn applies the pressure needed to work the s/c Pete

Sorry guys but it's not synchros, it's the gear sloppy on the main shaft...there is two options; new gear and main shaft OR grind out the 5th gear, rebush the gear with a hardened steel bush then grind it out to a smaller bore size than original to suit the worn main shaft If you only replace the synchro, it will jump out again Enjoy, Pete

The distance the piston travels in the m/cylinder is important Pete...if you use a different m/c it must work exactly the same as it worked in the original car it was designed for Not only should the piston travel be the same distance, it also should travel back and forth in the same position within the cylinder...deviate from this and troubles will ensue The amount of pressure applied is not really an issue when everything is working ok unless there's abnormal resistance somewhere in the system, like a dry thrust-race support sleeve or a strong pressure plate...then there's blocked fluid holes and/or hoses Usually when the clutch pedal is pressed in a stock vehicle, it's pushed to the floor and all the pressures, travels, alignments etc work properly for that car...swap them to a strange car, then they're gunna have to work the same, otherwise expect trouble So the pedal must have the same stroke as the donor and the pedal/piston rod must be aligned true to the axis of the m/cylinder The m/c piston must move back and forth in the same POSITION in the cylinder as before when it was in the donor The pressure plate fingers must have ample travel to match the original donor movement of the MASTER cylinder piston and the slave cylinder piston travel....and the disengagement of the clutch plate must work WITHIN the ORIGINAL DONOR BOUNDS and TRAVEL of the master cylinder piston Think more about the donor specs than the Zed when installing strange bits Enjoy, Pete

That car on eBay is the same colour I sprayed mine (photo)...what turns me off though is the interior red vinyl, same as mine had, I think I'll be customizing my interior somewhat, not to the extreme but to my taste Zed emblem in photo is just sitting on car, not fixed yet, just there for moral support

I'm sure we all have an appreciation for well preserved survivors found in barns and garages Hammer...not necessarily hot-rodded Zeds in car sale yards If that 240 on eBay was here in OZ, I'd be in the drivers seat right at this minute

Unbelievable 240z survivor on US eBay...check it out, I can only dream about owning this 240 Hope this link works, if it doesn't I'll need advice again ! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-240Z-1973-Datsun-240Z-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem27b1a50613QQitemZ170484106771QQptZUSQ5fCarsQ5fTrucks#v4-35

Are those air ducts in the front guards standard in Japan or customized do you think ? Pete

Sorry...thinking of the wrong light housing

I'll have me camera ready if I see that Zed again Pete

NZer, no not those...more like the "Z" lights in oldZman's link, in fact I think they were like that..but the placement of those emblems on the pillars looked absolutely factory and maybe the owner has just swapped the originals for flashing light ones I'm not really up to date on the more modern stuff as you might have guessed, I'm into the old hacks, even a 240 is brand new to me, geez you can see all the parts available for Zeds, no problem at all ! You'll know it if someone gives you an intricate sample part from a rare 1910 motorbike to cast up in bronze...and that part was borrowed from the other side of the World, only on loan for the sole purpose to make one casting then sent back...how risky was that, I ask ya ?