260DET

It's road registered Jason

If it's ready the Zed will be there for sure, looking forward to the series and the gang of Zeds wreaking havoc Auto project is interesting, the guru is a drag racer and there have been a lot of developments in autos for that purpose, some of which are relevant to circuit racing. So I'm confident he will sort it all out. I'm not sure what is going to be the best way to drive it, wide open throttle shifts when accelerating are a given but corner entry with braking will be a learning process for a while.

Need plenty of time too, latest news from the guru is that it looks like the wrong type of torque converter was supplied

Both the Z32 and 31 look good either way, I was interested in getting a Z31 2+2 tin top for a project track car but there aren't any, all T tops and let's face it glass tops are not the best for a track car. I believe that in the US both the 32 and 31 were raced in 2+2 form, better handling than the shorty's.

The 'option' is you either want a OE looking dash or you don't. The choice can depend of the condition of the car, if it's really good then a nice dash makes all the difference, it's a focal point so there is no getting around that.

Look at the number of entries, wow, this is the A series list where the Z cars lurk, there is a B series too http://www.morganparkraceway.com.au/forms/2016ASERIESWEBSITE.pdf Mine is in the Modified Production over 3,001cc group, not sure at this stage if the Zed will be ready by 19 Feb as practice will be essential to learn/relearn the track and make sure that everything is working as it should.

For any performance use it's the T tops that ruin them, same with the Z31. Every now and then I trawl through the ads looking for tin top Z31's and two seater 280ZX's, waste of time really, even the few private imports I've seen are T tops. No doubt that this T top affliction reduces their value considerably.

Just be careful if getting a tint because the steep angle of the perspex makes it darker when looking through the interior rear view mirror. So a light tint is suggested.

Z31 hotness.

You should be more like Lurch who discounts everything and gives stuff away GLWS.

This is a real car, not some JDM pretender. Stirring? Never

Booked in for a medical examination as required for old fellas to get a karting licence, the rest of the process is detailed too, much more than for a L2 CAMS licence. Perhaps the licence bit should have been done first in case of a medical fail before ordering a kart but race decisions are rarely logical or even sensible so too bad, she'll be right Karting is going to be a different experience to car sprints I think, the corners come up much quicker so driving is going to have to be more intuitive, mostly there will not be enough time to calculate conciously. The good thing is that there is no gear shifting or clutch to worry about, left foot braking which will be compatible with the best way to drive the auto trans Zed too. All that's needed is the development of a lot more left foot pressure sensitivity, maybe easier said than done though. Oh well, it's all for a good cause.

This one is still for sale gav240z, on 09 Jan 2016 - 5:51 PM, said: http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Datsun-260Z-1976/SSE-AD-3713797/?Cr=2 260z coupe asking $17k If it's as good as it looks body wise then it would be a good buy at $15k, would not cost much to put a L back in it if that's really necessary. Personally I'd keep it as is.

Agree, takes it a long way from being original. Looks like the OP has done a hit and run anyway.

lol appearing to do something but not really doing anything at all. Typical Japanese 'solution'?

That looks pretty sturdy, what I did with the 260 after fitting a FJ20 engine was to fabricate a simple brace across the tunnel and bolting to the tension (compression) bar mounts. The FJ had a gap between the back of the sump and the bellhousing, the brace went though that gap. As a general principle I have always tried to incorporate several X braces tying the chassis rails together eg back of the gearbox, near the diff. This is a great build, far more ambitious than most and most importantly will result in a very well balanced, powerful and practical car. Good one

Expecting severe body punishment Aub, part of the fun? Check your PM too you slacker.

There is a restrictor racing class Jason, of course the restrictor can can be removed for practice or whatever to unleash the full tyre smoking 28hp. Mine is coming from Kaos at Nerang but except for the occasional special new prices are pretty much the same everywhere, $8,874 for mine ready to race. Good second handies are of course much cheaper. TaG = touch and go = electric self starter engine. Even if my old body won't allow me to get up to full racing lap times, with the track just 15 minutes away a bit of practice fun will be always available, going fast around a race track takes some beating as far as I'm concerned, I need it

Yes, the body cops a hammering I'm told, hence the rib protector. Also have a C shape neck support which may help. Going to have a go anyway and back off a bit if necessary which may involve being a bit smoother but stuff it, the body is there to serve me so that's it's problem. Yeah?

Z is still waiting on it's final dyno test and tune but I've had enough waiting around with nothing to go fast in, I've found that getting really good specialist car work done is an extreme test of patience, there are so few top blokes around and they are booked out forever. Anyway, rather that sit around grumping, I've bitten the bullet and ordered a new ready to race 125cc go kart. The local track is about 15 minutes away and if something breaks on the kart it's simply a matter of buying the replacement over a counter and bolting it on. For anyone who knows karts it's a top of the line Arrow X4 Vegas, engine is a water cooled IAME X30 TaG, which means it has a key turn starter. Concerned about rib damage so a Tillett rib protector is coming too. Driving a go kart will be good car driving practice anyway, any karting tips welcome. particularly as I expect the not so young body will take a bit of a hammering

Well whose the clever boy then

A good two seater full tin top would sell for $12k, there is a reasonable demand for them. Not so much the T top though.

Street parking is bad, having survived this long they deserve their own cuddly garage. Specially in Brisbane's climate

50 amps?!!! Talking with an electrician the other day about power points in my shed, max 15 amps, much more than that will activate the circuit breaker.

So this would do reliable spot welding from one side, like on a Z suspension tower where it can be impossible to place a second electrode at the back? If so, how does it do that. How old is yours, how much use has it had and why are you selling it. Pics?