dat2kman

AND,,,,, Lee got down to a 1.07 Well done!!! John McKeon took his 240Z out, into the 59's, not bad for an old warhorse,,,,,,, and an old car!

What about JapNats at Qld r/way, Sat 24 th. $200 entry, various classes, google TimeAttack. In 2013 for the Sprints day they around 30 entries, so plenty track time? Heaps of spectators, but it tends to be more turbo/ricer/flatbrim type thing. Was thinking about running a old old Datsun there. No, will not do that Drift crap, thats on the Sunday.

Hhmmmm,,, Starts thread about lacking content,,,,, Becomes hot topic,,,,, Full of "content" Eh?

Umm, leaxe it to the last minute Lee! I would suggest start the day with the Koni's on the softest settings, as if too firm, at rear, the car will step out. Also, what tyres, and trye sizing? If low profile, ie 40 or 45 aspect ratio, ( assume they are) run them at say 34 on front and 32 on rear, they will increse with use. Reduce pressures by say 2 or 4 psi front and rear, as you build confidence. You want the sidewall to flex, and keep tyre surface in as much contact as pissible. Too high pressures keep sidewall stiff, and as car corners, geometry change and weight transfer will cause less tread contact. After first run, look at where the tread "wraps" over onto sidewall, about 1 cm down from tread, you should be seeing some fresh "scuffing" The sidewalls are working now!

Got one. But it's been rebuilt with new bearings, and new thicker full complement of plates. (stew Wilkins) The space plates were removed and four additional plates put in.

Peter Holinger is no longer with us (RIP), i had heard that they may be able to pull out the old drawings - no cad-cam here!, and remake them. One of their employees is/was the Datsun go-to guy. I sent him pics of the Fury 120Y box innards, and he picked it straight away, told me Goerge specifically asked for certain things to be done, which even today, most would think a bit out of the ordinary. Like Albins, they wont be cheap

Holinger will. These were normal boxes, that Peter Holinger was commsioned to build, in Australia. a better mousetrap, as far as Marsden, Fury, Dunkerton, and later, the circuit race cars. He used various combinations of Nissans Sports Option ratios, sets, as dictated by Fury, for specific use.

Internals are free, gear selection to be standard, ie dog engagement with straight cut gears are ok for Gp S use. The original factory Option boxes, ( got one here, as does Hodgo) have 1st back where Rev is, Rev back where 5th was, and 2-3-4-5 up front. It's still a B box Depending on the Drive/Driven input ratio, there were two types, you can come up with interesting combos in closer ratios than the original stock 260Z box, and the early old syncro type 240Z/Datsun Sports 2000 std box. Nissan did an Early type Option box. In late 1960's/early 1970's, one had a crazy tall first gear, that was for the SCCA rolling starts. Later Nissan Option boxes, 4 versions, were usually synchro engagement. Holinger took those, and converted them to dog/helical, dog/straight. The Kameari C set is not the same as the B set, but the C can be fitted to a B box. Standard FJ20Turbo boxes were all wider gears, which co-incidently are same gear dimensions as a C box gears. The variation is achieved with different spacer rings on the mainshaft cluster. They are a "smooth case" same as the 260Z casing, but bell is to suit the upright pisitioned FJ block. The later 240K/bluebird car boxes were a "ribbed case" type and run the slightly better Reverse Lock Out ( it doesnt really lock it out though! Albins is just playing catch up to Holingers current prices, it would seem! One needs to understand how Albins makes up a C/R cluster, eadier to show in the flesh. They start with your old cluster, and old dog rings, there is turning, welding and pressing involved.

Would not be hard to do it! ,,,,,,,,,but why!

We had a great time, plenty cars, lots of events, the 96 lap 300km enduro was aimed straight at any club level motorsport enthusiast, no pro crap at all. This would be a very eadily do-able event in any car, Zeds especially. Heck, there were two old Hoondi Excels, one still had roof racks on!! Matt and Terry, who I was pit bistch/re-fueler for, was running consistently, edging up the field, but lap 33 the 5XM'er lost iol pressure, water went up, and motor just went pop. Ah well, always next year! There is the 1 Hour event coming up, again, aimed at all comers, the grassroots guys. And being QR, none of the bullshite involved, but yes, you do need to beg borrow steal, or maybe buy a HANS device!

Mike, You gonna come talk to me? I can tell you, A What you need to know, and, B, where you get it from, and, C who where and how to do it. And, well done on your reveal, here in Qld, there are four full weekends of Historic Racing you are able to participate in, along with up to 6 further events in NSW!

Nick Mason is not at all "shady" in fact the opposite! He does not sell his cars, some are now museum pieces, they are that expensive, and so rare. He, and quite a few others, have simply, and very very expensively, had exact re-creations made. There is a very exclusive body builder here in Australia, that has done this, and no, he wont do it for the average Joe. The owner of the original, has had this guy, build exact body bucks, from the original, and had his car recreated, he owns the buck, the forms, the equipment, not the body builder. This bloke has been written up in the classic car media a number of times. And yes, not only conventional cars are replicated, but very rare circuit racing cars as well. Nothing new there! A number of supposedly decent types, here in Aus, have presented Group C Touring cars, to be given a Historic Logbook, to recommence circuit racing,,,,,,, however,,,, the cars are replicas !!! Oh no! There are enough people around that know and are aware of what goes on, when it comes to rare priceless stuff. Have a look at how some cars are driven very hard at Goodwood each year, and others are pussy-footed. A bloke here in Aus built his own Maserati 250 Monoposto, looks absolutely the shizz,,,, until you notice things like SHS framing, a Nissan inline 6 engine, brakes are modern, etc, but, it is Brilliant. All he needs is a real one, and he'd copy it, he built his from old photographs and drawings.

PM'ed Oh, and hi there, welcome to this site! What car you got? Introduction?

Brisbane,,,,, Yes! Well done, neat looking car!

You really think all of the 250GTO's survived? Wrong. Quite a few were totally destroyed both on track and on road. Due to the ultra rarity, some have been "restored" ie re-created Case in point, only ever 9 Ferrari Super Squalo's ever built, now as of 2013, 15 now exist. Why? The owners of some of the originals have had their car copied, and use the copy. There was quite a song and dance at Phillip Island Historics 2-3 years back, as a number of so called "Originals" were shipped out from the UK. Their originality was questioned, turned out they were pkain old replica cars, nice ones though. If you were Nick Mason from Pink Floyd, you are not going to risk your, valued at $60 million original, you just get a copycat car, it may cost you 1-2 million to replicate, but so what, you are Nick Madon! Why am i disclosing this? As the owner of some genuine original Historic race cars, of Australian heritage, I and a number of others, have had our entries to Phillip Island Historics rejected, due to a "full program" Filled up with knobheads in their replicas. Now, who is prepared to say, Yes, that car in the vid IS the REAL DEAL. The last 250GTO sold for approx $65 million dollars, it was a real one, and it will be cosseted and pampered to the end of time. Not driven in any form of anger.

Wasn't fast enuf,,,,,

Like dem rimz! I got an old car they'll fit right onto, but with 12" wide slicks!!

Try Les Collins, or Lou Mondello, prob better luck with Lou, he has the dyno next door to his shed. Worst comes to worst,,, and it has been done plenty times before,,, using jet drills, drill out some smaller ones, or if only have larger ones, silver solder them up, and drill to size. AND, grind off the stamped size, so that future uses will not take for granted what they WERE! ( they'll just simply have to insert shanks of jet drills to determine the new sizing!)

One thing to consider, localised welding of a bracket, such as this, can fail at the welds, if undue forces are applied over time, how lng? Who knows, but the propensity for breakdown of metal compisition immediately next to weld site is high. Small , say 5mm long with 10-15 mm gaps f no weld, all along this brackets edges would be preferable,,,, But,, The area/seams/body joints/stock spot welds surrounding will still be "stressed", again, it is an " over a period f time " thing. The stresses have to be pretty high for them to show, case in point, the crack that can appear in the C pillar of a Z, this is just a body seam, welded, filled and painted at factory when new. In a dirt car use, a lot more cracks appear, and simply welding them, causes the metal on either side to fatigue, often quite quickly.. If there is a bit of "opening up" of seams in the front lower rails area, a few bits of weld, the addition of a bit of angle ( this bracket) held on by more short runs, will go a long way to helping. Just dont weld it fully around the whole edge!

Ideally, some seam welding, when chassis/frame is being prepped, is all that is needed. It is rare, even in the rigours of dirt rallying, that the captive nuts will pull out, the above bracket wont stop that. 24 mm bar wont be an issue. But yes, that big open rectangular box f an engine bay does flex, twist and warp a bit, a bit of decent seam/stitch welding makes a huge difference to overall stiffness.

Time, labour, sourcing material, jig for holes, Howabout them Doctor types, 15 min consultation, $140, or them lawyer blokes, up to 600 an hour. Fancy mechanics are up to $100 an hour. Crazy stuff And we wonder why the joint is going to the dogs. fwiw, the grassroots on the street economy in the USA is doing very well, a jolly damn sight better than us here, Hard to believe it, fuel, food, shopping, labour, all very much lower cost! It's just their Gumbymint is buggerizing it up for them

Carefully scrape it off, gentle taps with small hammer and small chisel, wirewheel brush it. Deally you should remove each valve, keep all items in a bag or small cont, numbered 1 to 12, So reassembly goes back same way, ie lash caps, collets retainers etc. A little tub of valve grind past, and a rubber suction cup on a bit of wood dowrl, and just re-lapp them back in Use a Aboriginal fire starter motion with your hands, lifting, dropping rotating, No need to worry about reseating, cutting, 5 angle valve jobs. Lapping gets the sealing right,,,, provided valve heads are not bent, due to resting the head valveface down, on a jolly workbench!! Use petrol or solvent to thouroghly clean residue of lapping paste.

Excellent idea, Z club of Qld, get in touch with the 5xm'ers, and "hire" a grid/block on the day. Or is there some readon why not,,,,,,?

BMW guys running on 9th are up for $6k to hire, they have just, just scraped in the prepaid minimum, if not, they pull the pin, but need to give min 2 weeks notice otherwise, their deposit is lost. Or depisit is transferred to another day later in year, cant recall To hire it on a Sat or a Sun, its $15,000 It just gets very hard, especially to a club rhat has very few, ie 20 or so, regular runners, to garner enough extra " once a year/come and try's" There just isnt the depth in the Qld Z fraternity to get enough runners at a one off. Of the 120 entrants at each of the eight rounds at Morgan Park sprints, approx 20 are Z regulars, at only four weekends over the whole year. I can get pretty well any of these Z's an invite, to any of the three future QR/Lakeside events, that the HRCC will be attending, they are not "pure" Historic events, and QRO are running them. Last time the invite went out, response,,,, Zero! The invite is there, again for 2014, for these events later in the year. Sorry, it wont be a LapZ, but at least it is something. Matt, any idea what the mx5 club gets charged for a Monday at Lake? I think the Bimmer guys were a bit pricey at $200 per car, for a Friday!

You say you put some air horns from usa on? How close are these to the flat face lid on the filters? You also mentioned adjusting the rear carby due to fuel dribbling out for 10 seconds. Thats a float height/sticking issue. But you have now upset the balance. To get it back close, remove the filter covers, grab a 2' long piece of garden hose, and alternate getween carb horns, and listen for the air sucking sound. The idea is to get its idle down, and set the mixture screws so it doesnt stumble. You'll get it close, but not ideal.