Riceburner

Genuine front diff mount, was fitted and run for 2hrs in car. $60 inc express post aus wide

IIRC I plunge 1mm deep and 3.5" dia around the front lower bearing(on the inside of L series bell housing) it was also machined out to 63mm to accommodate the larger bearing. Top selector rod was machined out to 16mm. Dat2kman was a wealth of knowledge on the mod and was constantly hounded with my questions. LOL. There's plenty of very knowledgeable people on this site who can help with pretty much anything.

Nice pics, any in car footage? What are these Bilsteins you speak of?

Is it a crossmember is it an insulator is it a captive diff mount It's all of them and none at the same time That's right, this vibration is slowly making me more batty than I already am But will it fix the problem... I've also rebuilt both half shafts with new heavy duty hardy spicer uni joints. To be continued, same bat channel, same bat time. Kapow! Biff! Wack!

Hehe, no worries Jas. I managed to get a .83 fifth and counter from SWM for $100

Hi Simon, I have 1st 2nd 3rd and 5th from an RB20det gearbox, including the counter shaft. I can post up some pics if you like, I believe they were in good used condition, the fifth gear ratio is .759.

Oh yeah Video production looks really good, awesome job guys!

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Certainly action packed, Looks like great fun. You seem to have awesome drive off the corners and even out dragged the Shelby going round to Honda Also round the outside of a porsche at turn 1 on cold tires! Hehe. Seemed to be working very nicely.

Very interesting, do you have any idea on the different thicknesses the struts came in? Could be an easy way to drop some weight for the racers

I'd just over bore the L28, get some oversized cast pistons and slap it together with a good fully balanced bottom end. That's pretty much all my short block is. You'll end up with a similar displacement, unless you were prepared to spend big bucks on custom pistons and aftermarket rods to go with the LD crank.

Is it a heap of corrosion inside the strut? Sounds like a huge wall thickness otherwise

Sounds like a good price, most I have seen are in the 500-600 range. It's a difficult question to ask as it depends on the build spec and budget. Are you using new rods with custom pistons or going with stock OEM parts? Either way definitely get the the whole bottom end balanced as a unit! Including flywheel and clutch

Nice result Mick, three seconds is massive! How does the splitter attach?

I cant imagine it doing any harm, cooler air can only be a good thing. From what I've read the shape can alter flow/performance to the rear carbs but im not sure it would be noticeable on a road car. I like the idea of the Perspex top, it'll be easy to keep an eye on things

So much thought and detail on this build, it's gunna be crazy good!

They've had a lot more Z stories lately, lets hope it continues! Is that a captive diff mount I spy

Interesting Simon, stiffer in the rear seems odd to me, Was he running slicks? I wouldn't run any more than 350lb on a road driven car, my 340lb fronts are very rough on our crappy roads.

Airbox measurements are roughly: 670mm long, 135mm deep at the front tapering down to 110mm at the rear, 160mm high. Check your engine bay clearance, especially to the strut tower.

Take some measurements of the length, aren't the L4 boxes shorter than L6?

Hahaha If I fit one will it increase the value of my car?

Does it ever end? I'm going the airbox route for the intake on the engine, the socks are giving me the sh!ts. I'll copy Alans setup and duct the airbox to a 280z airbox with a K&N or uni filter. The airbox is from R-factory Japan, a suggestion from Nzeder got my interest, Alan (HS30H) runs it on his gorgeous 240ZG and was kind enough to take some measurements for me. According to my measurements I'll need some 20mm billet machined spacers to clear the upper bodies of each FCR carb, other than that it should go in nicely with a minimum velocity stack of 80mm hopefully more. I also got a great little aluminium dead pedal from them, It's meant for a KGC10 skyline but fits my S30Z perfectly and a lot more comfortable than the factory 'Lego Brick' I finally managed to get the reverse lights working with a new switch, I think I may have fitted a neutral switch from the RB box and then the OD switch which didn't work either. Whoops! EDIT: After reading horror stories of the diff solid mount I have removed it and fitted an OEM rubber mount with the RT urethane snubber trimmed. Guess what, the Vibration is back > That's it I'm going with a Stuart Wilkins style captive diff mount, It'll be bullet proof even if the bush fails!

Might want to plastic wrap the passenger seat Paul Lol.

Thanks Alan. Mike, I did see uni filter do a washable filter for the R31 skyline, looks to be the same material as their socks.

Nice, it'll look great. Best part is no polishing!