Riceburner

Kinda looks similar to the induction cowl hood, only more authentic. I like it without the holes in the side! With them it just doesn't look quite right.

Started the repair this arvo, had to pull off carbs and rear inlet manifold unfortunately. After 25mins I had that pesky stud out, it was actually broken two threads below the face of the head! Woohoo Thanks to Dimitri for the spare stud and I'll do the re-assembly tomorrow.

I wonder what horses charging down the main straight would rate at..... 75 does seem pretty tight, but some of the cars are LOUD and never seem to get pinged. Gordon, I've never had any warnings I actually think our cars aren't too bad when you hear the Rotary's or the GT40's that also go round. Mine is a bit quieter now as some of that bark was small manifold leaks.... Whoops. I tightened it all up with 1/4 drive rachet and snapped a stud If it's not one thing it's something else. Keep us posted on the dyno outcome, I'd be interested to see the power your putting out.

I do have ez outs but haven't used them before, any tips? If I have to remove the manifolds I will but I'd like to do the least amount of work possible. Hehe Thanks for the offers guys, I might grab a spare stud if you still have one Dimitri?

Hey guys, while tightening my manifold bolts/studs I managed to snap one on the no.5 inlet/exhaust. It has broken flush with the head What's the best way to get it out, I'd like to avoid removing the manifolds if possible....? Also where can I get new ones, I've tried all the auto stores and they have longer ones which didn't seem suitable

Happy Birthday Peter

Thanks Gordon. I also get that bark too between 4-5k.... I have similar length secondaries, mine are twin 60mm and around 400 long then into a cone and 2.5" to muffler then cone out to twin 2.5" all the way through. Good to hear it's all sorted.

What length are the secondaries your now running?

Sounds good! I know when I raced at Calder it had rained and the track was super slippery. I think its something to do with the trye softener/grip drag racers use. Didn't sound like you got full throttle to half track

Yeah Benny is correct. One on top, one on bottom so they sandwich the bar. 13.2 is a good effort especially with poor traction.

This is my dream car. The most unbelievable and unmistakeable sound

I'll probably do the John Mott sprint instead as it's only a few weeks later isn't it?

Nice, thanks guys

Yep it's cusco, but not one of the aluminiun ones that flex. Thanks Mike thats exactly the sort of stuff I'm looking for Dimitri when you say it goes onto the radiator support is that under the gaurd external to the engine bay?

Good stuff Rev, looks like a sweet ride I'm also keen to know more about this clay bar, does it take long to do? Easy to use, much elbow grease required?

Great work Mossy, with all that POR15 I don't think you'll ever see rust again. This will be an awesome recreation once it's complete, shame they weren't done this way from the factory cause there'd be a whole lot more left.

In terms of front stiffness how would this diagonal bar go? Any other ideas or specific areas the require extra attention? Paging LURCH... Is this something you could do when I get you to do the drivers side door and stuff?

Update, the G-Nose covers arrived today I was suspect on the 'new old stock' cause you never know but they seem to be the real deal with the stainless steel surround as per originals and the adheasive on the seals is old and yellow. They came with all the mounting hardware too in very very old Nissan boxes. I have decide to get a 5piece G-Nose from Arita Speed in Japan, it turns out my current front spoiler is actually for a G-Nose so I will look at attaching that to the lower section once it's all fitted up. As the Ricey has no front bracing/barwork I got a front strut brace, slightly different style to most but should be very strong and give me a enough clearance over the bike carbs.... It's just a guess, not sure if it'll actually fit. What extra Strengthening mods can be done to the front of a 240? Preferrably stuff that can't be seen like bar work in the engine bay. I'm pushing fairly hard on track and with super stiff springs I think the chassis is the next weakest point! Fitting the 6point cage made a big difference to the 'feel' of the car and I'd like to get rid of as much front end flex as possible.

I like how the electrical sign says 'do not climb over' Fair warning to the occupants. Great job mate, it'll be like a brand new shell!

I have a 23mm front bar with coilovers 340lb front, 4way adjustable shocks, 3.2 degrees neg camber, 1.5degrees castor(standard rods), toe 0.4mm. Rears fixed as original with 220lb, koni reds and standard 18mm bar, 1.9mm toe. Seems to be very neutral in handling, with easy turn in. I ran with the rear bar connected and disconnected at phillip island and it didn't make any noticable change to driving feel, times were the same too! Its still driven on the road but the front is very stiff on the smallest bumps

Do they allow any in car cameras? Would be awesome to see some footage of your car in action...

Definately seems like very good bang for buck!

I drilled larger holes in each flat slide inside the carb, it also has the jet needle in it, which goes into the main jet. These are 6x 42mm Keihin carbs of a honda blackbird, they have a flat slide before the throttle butterfly and drilling the slide allows it to react to throttle opening quicker. They are kind of a modern version SU's only with much better engineering, like light weight plastic slides, knife edged throttle shafts and butterfly's from the factory

It's big compression compared to the old motor at 8.3:1 haha. I think we figured this one to be around 10:1? Haven't had it dynoed yet, I will have to at some stage but it pulls pretty hard all the way to 7,000 and I drilled out the slides to give quicker throttle response. I was at 6,800 by the end of the straight so gearing is spot on too.

The Ricey is now down to 1.55's at Phillip Island I think there could be a bit more in it too.. I locked the left front into honda a couple of times in the first session, I then started breaking early so I didn't flatspot or trash the tyre. It was the first time I have used the Hilux/magna front brake combo and I'm happy to report there was no brake fade issues at all! No problems with those pesky welsh plugs, I had applied a ring of JB Weld around each one with a syringe to hopefully 'glue' them in... It worked. I also tried the D.L. Potter water resrtictor (it's welded in the end of the thermostat housing) with a Nissan thermostat and the Diesel water pump the temp was super stable, better than it's ever been, sitting halfway all day long.