Riceburner

Whoa, where did all this come from :'( I hope I/we havent lost Peter's knowledge, expertise and friendship. He's such a generous person with his time and is a true master craftsman, the Michaelangelo of cylinder heads thats for sure!

Mark, it was just bad luck I hope. I don't have the bypass hose on mine but I have always drilled a 3mm hole through the outer ring of the tstat as recommended by Bazz from Datsport and has worked well so far. Like David says, this restrictor comes with instruction saying it must be used with a tstat which is a little confusing. Ha. David, this is the exact part I have, he sounded like a Datsun guru and Mamabears lair had quite a few very nice goodies. Have you fitted it yet, if so how does it go?

How did you check the current draw, are you sure it wasn't 13volts? I don't think my wiring would handle 20amps as its pretty small gauge and you want the fuse to burn out before the wiring... Maybe try smaller fuses until it blows then use the next size up.

240ZG and Hako

Do you mean it's shorter than standard or out of round/rwrong shape or size..... can you measure a stock neck and compare? The inlet on my overflow bottle blocks up occaisionally, but I doubt that would hold enough pressure. It sounds like a complete head f@$k

I used a standard recovery cap, the new cap that came with the alloy rad and the uprated Kameari cap all with no problems. Is the neck shorter on the new rad, maybe that's increasing the pressure on the spring or not allowing it to open? Have you tried a new cap? The Kameari cap is 1.2kg/cm

Thanks for the explanation Mark, I'm actually going to try the don potter resrictor with a brand new nissan T/stat. They are quite an interesting shape, the Nissan stat is slightly offset and has a rubber seal in the centre to close the stat 100%. Very different to the generic replacements. It was going real hard Peter, even if it was only for 3/4's of a lap. Hehe.

I want it!!! First half is the Z.

This would be fantastic. Definately put me down for one Alan! Thanks.

Thanks mossy, whereabouts did you source it from? I'm guna try what I have (bmw8") and fit the don potter water restrictor.

I gave it some gas when it kept spinning so flicked to the inside then stalled and rolled backwards. Renault goes good, got a nice sound to it!

Haha awesome. I was just purging the NOS before the front straight

Ha, I have a guy in mordialloc who has done all my brake work really cheap but if your offering Simon. Thanks, david + peter that makes me feel a bit better about it. I had a really good look at the track on sunday and it all looked ok, the hole was very clean. Bit off topic but I also saw a Kameari balancer for about $380, The ATI balancer is out of my budget at the moment. I might just see how it goes with the current setup for the time being, and I'll make sure I have welsh plugs in my spares bag......

Rodger, what's your vector victor? We need more clearance Clarence

Maybe I could borrow the nismo balancer and get it copied? Do you know how much it's under driven by?

Mine is really hard to measure as it has the BMW 8inch damper on the front. Very rough measure seems around 125mm?

Do you have any pics of it Dimitri and it's size?

Dimitri where did you get it from, would i be able to adapt the BMW balancer onto it? Will it cause overheating issues on the street? I was in the pits next to your boss yesterday, he had a wicked little Renault.

What about Alan's prince airbox, he was looking at getting it moulded a while ago this would be the perfect chance and its supposed to flow very well. I'd definately get one of those! It's thinner too so possibly could be run with any manifold?

Cap is 17psi instead of 12.8psi standard. I ran all this stuff on the old engine except the pump without any issues for 2yrs, I run the low temp stat just so it opened earlier on track. It's the first plug closest to the timing cover which I believe is the exit of the pump to the block. They were fairly tight fit, used large socket and mash hammer to fit them. Maybe an underdriven water pump pulley is required? From what I've read bob sharp used the LD pumps but with a restrictor instead of a stat, could the pump/stat be over pressurizing the block at sustained high revs? I shifted at 7,000 in all gears. Would an underdriven water pump cause overheating issues on the street?

I asked this question in my build thread but is probably more suitable in this section. First time at the track yesterday did 1 warm up lap and almost 1 flying lap when a coolant smell wafted into the cabin, I also spun in my own fluid. Got back to pits to find a welsh plug completely missing from the front of the block on the drivers side! Is there a reason it would pop/blow out? Temps were fine, oil pressure fine. I used permatex no.3 (aviation cement) when installing them. I was able to repair, test and drive home and the water level has not dropped since topping up. I'd like to get to the bottom of it as I think I was very lucky not to destroy my brand new motor :'( Anyone else had this before? Are the low temp stat, LD28 water pump, Kameari high pressure cap a bad combo at high revs?

I put the whole engine together, I just don't get why it's happened? There doesn't appear to be any damage, temp gauge was a little above 3/4 but I don't think it was reading water as it tokk 6ltrs to fill it up. I drove it all the way home sitting on 3,600rpm for over 2hrs and it didn't loose any water so guess all is good. On the one flying lap I did it was going real hard! So might have been a lucky escape.

I'm running a high pressure Kameari radiator cap, LD28 Water pump and a 160 thermostat. Could this be part of the problem?

Winton today, I only got 2 laps before I smelled coolant under brakes on the last corner, turned in and spun halfway through but kept the boot in it to get of the racing line. Returned to the pits to find the welsh plug straight behind the alt completely missing Managed to get some more in town thanks to Dave Saunders, fitted, filled with 6lts of water and after few tests/heat cycles drove the 3hrs home. Phew! Why would a welsh plug be blown out of the block???

Hi Kent, there are quite a few places that make/sell reproduction g-noses, maybe a few pics would help. I know Alfa fibrglass and Zed car customs do the G-noses somewhere around $800-$900 mark, but there are plenty of others doing them too. The hinges I have seen are about $200.