T.A.P

That is one very rusty car and I thought my was rusty. Have fun welding, but I think you'd be better off with a cleaner shell.

Sorry to hijack your post like this but your price might need a revision. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-DATSUN-260Z-1970-79-SEDAN-REAR-LOW-30mm-LOWERED-COIL-KING-SPRINGS-/150722142050?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2317bd5f62

pm sent

Looking forward to the video, sounds very interesting.

Croweter, the vacuum distributor locates just above the the fan switch, it has a climate control mode slider to the front panel which allows you to select, Air/Vent...etc There should be vacuum hose routes from the engine to the vacuum distributor (also known as Vacuum Selector) labels S (source), check that you have sufficient vacuum at the end of the hose. If you do then problem most probably lies in the distributor (assuming the diaphrams and hoses are in good nick). You will need to remove it and change the seals and/or apply some grease or swap it over with another one, it's pretty self explainatory once you disassemble it. Heres a pic of the layout.

Check under the dash? Seriouly you will need to check under the dash, check the hoses for cracks and fitments adm the diaphrams. Also the vaccum distributor tends to leak over time and if thats the case you will need to remove and regrease it. Remove the seats if you need to that should give you more space to work with. How long did you have your Z for? Maybe the previou owner made a mess last time he worked on it.

ping pong bumpp.

Thats a steal, I would get my hands on it if I were in Mel. GL with the sale. PS: Did you had the chance to look at the blank plates for me Dimitri?

Intersted in the rear spoiler...how much are you after for it?

Mossy, I used the oxy torch to heat up the 90 degree bend section and once it got hot I used the plier to bend the rod to the left (if its for the right hinge, and right if its for the left hinge), you can do this on either end of the bar. Bend it little by little, the bar will lose its resistant strength after this depending on the angle variation thus it will be heavier when you lift the hood up. Not a problem for me but you should keep that in mind, still way better than the hood sticking up. Cheers Thach

With the bar you can easily adjust the angle at anytime...with the hole its hard to go back.

I had the same problem, you will need to adjust the resistant angle of the either end of the bar so that it generates less resistant when you close the hood. The bar is bloody hard to bend by hand so dont even try, I used a torch to heat up the section where it bends upwards and once it got red hot I used a plier to adjust the resistant angle of the bar. If you need more clarification I can take some pics and post them up...my explaination is best at ESL level.

Ill take the headlight covers if the sale falls.

Please put me down for a set.

Im interested in the pics too, Im getting my setup soon. The only problem now is finding a good machinist in WA.

I think this is the guy Ive heard about, appareantly he has a collection of over 50 cars in his yard, not sure if all are Zs but Ive heard that most are.

Clips are inside the diff, they should snap back in.

Ive got them off from importmonster, shipping price /comission fee is killer but I thionk its well worth it. Sourcing these parts here would take ages, I was gonna go with Subis diff and custom stub axels from John over at Hybridz but this one came up so I pulled the plug.

Yea its the whole package, here is the translation if anyones interested. I dont think it makes much sense but you'll get the idea: ---------------- Mint ☆ ☆ ☆! ! Final 4.1 Full Set R200 Nismo LSD ☆ ☆ ☆ ★ ★ Item Production ☆! ! Made R200 Nismo LSD 4.1 Final rarity! ! Get a full set is the velocity of the drive shaft. We have about 18 months with pre-OH You're welcome to buy a couple of years ago ☆ 2, because back in the R180, about six months and store broke. The ultra-rare Nismo LSD made ☆. (The germ of course!) Constant velocity drive shafts rare ☆, with a full set of flanges! ! (Mounting kit to ensure that the six-hole Dorasha 4 holes) ☆ Final acceleration so little emphasis on the most popular 4.1 is recommended for street. New ☆! ! Nissan genuine oil seal (38342-N3100) & differential cover gasket (38320-N3111) is attached! ! I asked a perfectly ☆, I nervously bid is prohibited. Please check the image ☆, please observe the no-bid at the claim and no return. ---------------

Just won this auction on Jap Yahoo. Cant wait to install them. Yay. :) http://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/148441422

I removed the halfshafts & driveshaft today to replace all the unis, upon completion I connected only the driveshaft back to test for any vibrations (the halfshatfs are not connected), so the diff companion flanges just spin by themselves. It was all smooth until about 80kph or 50mph then I can hear the tunnel vibrates, kinda loud. If I rev it pass that speed then its fine, tried gear 3,4 and 5 and all have the same problem. When I install the unis I put both the grease nipples on the same side (the nipples are on the caps) instead of opposite sides, could this be the culprit to the vibration? They are a few grams max, could it be that they caused the vibration since we are talking high rpm here? Ive yet to rotate the driveshaft 180 degree and I'll do it tomorrow, also since they tunnel vibrate without the power transmitted to the ground Im guessing the same thing will happen when the halfshafts are connected?...Please give me some inputs, I dont really want to remove the one uni and rotate the nipple to the other side. Thanks

Thank you. Even though I don't understand the language nevertheless the pictures are very informative.

In the process of eliminating the noises at the rearend, having replaced the front diff mount with RT mount today I attacked the unis. circlips-done 30mm socket works best with halfshaft unis, and 25mm works best with driveshaft unis. Caps has rusts on them... All cleaned waiting for SW heavy duty unis... For the people who are using the RT mount, do you use the front insulator as well? Im thinking of putting the front insulator in as well and sandwich the diff in between, but Im not sure if thatll do any good.

Alex from the top of my head you ll need to remove the screws holding it from the two sides, front and two from the back bolting it to the chasis. after that put the gear in 2,4 or reverse and try to wiggle it out. Might take abit of patient but it WILL come out, I did it this way when swapping the AC over. GL Thach

Ive been waiting anxiously and finally the leather covers arrived today. Very well made and soft, I used extra padding since the foams looked a little tired..... I know my a$$ and back will thank me for this ;D