tir33d

Diff still available?

Opinion for what its worth is that you are no where. Your new semi slicks when hot are going to expose massive weakness in your set up. Stronger springs, better shocks, bigger sway bar. Yes camber is king, but there are other bits. Coilovers are good if set up correctly. Costly, but adjustable. Whether we are smart enough to get the right adjustment is another question. Just make sure they are positive steps - don't do it cheap to just get it done.

what diff ratios

My right hand pipes are all individual, and it is still really really painfull to get them on, don't know how they are gonna get in to be truthful. No race merge collectors? Are you going to get them HPC coated? My extractors and pipes originally cost $2200 or $2400. Since spent another $500 at a shop to go backwards, then another $700 for bits for us to redesign the rear from the extractors. Have you got a bung in one of your pipes for your o2 sensor? Hard to get equal lengths in our situation, but he really did just look for the easy route. Still another step closer.

I use avs4you but I think there must be better, gotta remember your playing with big files. Keen to see what this results as well. Luv the data that you can get on cams as well, but I don't think you get a lot of change from 1500

If you can find a good one a 120y coupe. I have a rusty one with the old 1200 motor for khanacross. With a welded diff its awesome. You will want more power, just aim for a ca18 or sr20 transplant when $ and skill permit. Have to say that my original 280zx cost 1900. Was intercooled turbo 2.8. It went pretty good. Took it to wakefield and did 1.18 I think. But man it was the most fun, people thought I was out of control. Old suspension was classic for sending a telegram about the car coming round. I flogged that motor for 3 track days, upgraded the brakes with hilux calipers after first day. Blew it up by doing too many laps and getting to hot - although only blew turbo seals. Now another car later (due to a wall jumping at me) my current ride was 400, but rusty as hell. $30,000 worth of development ($5k brakes, $5k drysump, 2k suspension, 2k per set of tyres, $5k in old ls1 chev, + numerous bits) I am heaps faster, to the point I wonder if I have the edge to drive it (although I have a pretty good go everytime) Roll cage is important - up to $5k for a full service job, cheap as $600 for a weld in kit that you have to notch and weld. Do the minimum to get the car that you want, once playing the game you will be willing to spend more on development. Don't forget the tow vehicle and trailer......

I corner weighted mine on the weekend. 1320kg with 40 litres of fuel and my skinny butt (73kg). not quite 50/50 but bloody close. 50.9 front / 49.1 rear. Cross weight dead on at 50% at 660kg. Admitedly my bolt on bits have added up. But my current motor only cost $1000, add some bits (cam, springs pushrods) and your easy 450-500hp for under $2k. Add the bolt ons (manifold, throttle body, fuel system) and your near 550. Cheap power.

Is that adapter where your oil filter goes? Big question, does it fit?

You will save yourself $1500 if you do your cam now. I am guessing you are going to have to get that computer tuned, guess $1000, labour on a motor on a stand will be $500 less. ANd you really want to rev a chev to 7000rpm, only springs can make this safer. Do it later and $1000 to retune the computer. The underdrive is just a nice thing for your motor. Normal motors live at 2000rpm not 5000rpm, spin your power steer to quick, water pump, alternator. Not about the 3hp, more about accessory speed. Just my 2c. Phil

1st: 2.66:1 2nd: 1.78:1 3rd: 1.30:1 4th: 1.00:1 5th: 0.74:1 6th: 0.50:1 3.7 in diff. Memory here - 6200 6th gear at eastern creek. Only use 3 & 4 at Wakefield. Mine are individual pipes on DS headers, real PITA.

You need to get yourself a starter motor and bolt that in. Suddenly you will realise your clearance issues with header pipes. Does this car already have a full roll cage? You have crossed over now, no longer improved production. Might as well start stripping headlights and all. How are you going to feed air to throttle body? Under driven harmonic balancer?

Twin 3's were definetly less restriction, but too damn noisy. You cant get twin 3 over the moustache bar. I have redesigned the exhaust from collectors back that it now has 2 12' long 3' resonators, merges to 4' over the moustache bar then into a 7' barrel 14' long. Its still got a good noise, but its not unbearable. 4' should be good for 700hp I really didn't expect the car to run so well so I didn't pack the camera. Figure I might have to renew my memberships, get the cage certified and maybe go to the supersprint round at EC in a month. Not in a rush, I need another test and tune day before I get to excited.

So I finally got the new toy out. Bodywork was still bare metal one week out from a track day. Proud to say I did the aerosol trick. Bodywork is being completed properly now. Heres how it looks now. Fair bit of rear end smoothing And the sound So took it to Wakefield park for a private day, really happy with the result. I could hardly change gears, must still have a large amount of air trapped. Tune was fat / rich. Still managed a 67.3, bit over a second slower than the old girl (but that was on new kumho v710). There has to be another 2 seconds in gearchange, bit more in tune and more in the setup. Brakes brilliantly. I love the feeling of the pedal box. Turns in well and powers down great. Gonna pony up and finally put a quaife lsd inside as I think my CIG locker is hurting me also.

You just need to get to your shape, in anyway you like. For me, paddlepop sticks, expanda foam, trim and shape, gyprock bog, sand, real bog, cover with varnish. Then fibreglass. First layer 220gm, three more layers at 450gm. Also put a layer of Kevlar in the bonnet to prevent issues / shattering. ($60 per metre) Becomes interesting when you get to 3 piece moulds. Your process is just for the "buck". Once smooth you would then have to fibreglass over again to release your negative (mould). Then fibreglass again to produce your piece from that mould. Ive spent over $1000 and invested prob 80 hours - and man I still have a lot of sanding to do. Very time consuming and in reality you should put a dollar figure on your time. You can buy that full kit, I found a link on hybrid. Guy is willing to ship to Oz but freight the issue, you need to buy the end of a container and ship it. And if you do buy a kit, make some moulds for your own safekeeping.

the oil filler neck is too long, it will just touch your bonnet. Take out the neck and just use the cap.

I meant don't like. Too heavy down low, I am biased though. ]

That's an awesome link for wheels. I have 18 x 10 rotas but they are a +12 I think. For 3' of camber with coilovers you need about a 45mm spacer. Hard to get wide 4 stud low / - offset. Although I like the look, the ass is to fat. And trust me DIY on a whole kit isn't a easy job.

Im wondering if it is too short for my needs. and of course the price.

I think there is bugger all difference in the block between LS1 and LS3. The reluctor wheel is different for cam sensor, but all accessories should be the same, or same mounting holes anyway. I use commodore PS pump to left, commodore alternator bottom left, underdrive harmonic and a shortened belt.

And the heater line outputs, they are different sizes. There is a guy on ebay mexico or usa that has a pipe made for this, about $25.

My alternator fit just fine on the lower left, don't understand why yours need to be so high, the pass side manifolds are the easy ones. I used a moroso sump with windage trays but still ran short. The sump was rated at 7.5 litres from memory but I could only use about 6.5. Still spun a bearing. If its a new motor, really consider a drysump, done once, done right. And then you can also build extractors and stuff to suit drysump. I used ARE and prob cost $6000 all done. Sounds a lot, but one motor + dry sump cost twice as much. The fuel lines you mention over the manifold is kind of regarded as a bit of a restriction. You can buy a aftermarket rail set up which will cross from the front. Set up a dead head fuel system (reg and swirl pot at rear) I imagine you already have a big line and 044 pump. You running a haltech computer or the standard LS1 loom? Big pipes, big.. If you can get it run twin 3". I have just redone mine with twin 3" resonators in the tunnel to a four inch single opened the floor a little over diff and have a 7 inch barrel 14 inch long muffler. Sounds much quieter than before, but still noisy. Don't know how to make it much quieter without restricting flow. Please tell me your replacing the springs with the cam change. I found a alloy radiator that fits really well with in and out on drivers side. Only $180. Make sure you run an extra earth from motor to body (theirs some theory about electroylisis) I will do a review on mine in a day or two - gone into stupid mode so I can try and use it Friday

Thanks NZ

They look like my 280zx R200 shafts. How much? If someone can confirm they are the same.

[url][/url] Need home made fibreglass bonnet, laid some alloy strips to give it a little structure, there is also a layer of Kevlar in there to help with strength. [url][/url] Front end is coming together. [/url] Had to fit a pedal box due to my seat being back an extra 12 inches (also allowed me to eliminate brake booster) ] Cant see much here, but this is my "McGuyver" (you young kids ask your father). Running a diff cooler cause I always burn my oil (think welding doesn't help). These T fitting allow for my magnet sump/drain plug and also a fill point. Lines run to a oil cooler with fan in back left corner. ] Nifty cnc work. These are a 5.3 litre head that have been opened right up and 6L valves installed. They flow well but also provide 11.5 - 1 compression bolt on. The untouch chamber enables me to still swing a big cam without having to flycut pistons.

My brother works at a gas fired power plant. In one day alone a couple of years back, they turned on their four generators at 160mw each, and made $10,000,000 in one day. The plant was built for $650,000,000 but sold before completion to _____ for $800 mil. His is on demand, when demand rises, prices rise. On average the market keep a mw around $15-$20. In high times, (40' for 5 days straight) that price can rise to a government capped $10,000 per mw. When the government owned the power plants, we had the power. Now we have nothing. And while im at it, someone put a sock in the greenies mouths, all this coal, which we will happily sell to someone else to burn, but we won't build any more coal plants for ourselves, we won't build nuclear, but once again we supply the world with the resource. Government should announce its back in the power game, build some plants, and go on the open market with the rest, at least then the government would make money out of something.