tir33d

500mm from top ofcamber plate to eyelit would be the minimum on all four struts

Tape measure is your best friend. I am not rich enough to own a 240/260.

Photo 4 shows where I would need my eyelit, next line up is the shock inside the body, there is a straight fitting off the bottom of shock, the line will distort to far to get to my height. I believe they are 240/260 mounts in the photo.

Second last photo and last photo show my issue. The car is close to height I want, but the distance measurement is 500mm front strut top to bottom at the moment. For me to lower any further I need a smaller number. The hose hanging from the bottom will not allow me to get any lower. I need a slightly shorter shock body.

Well I have sitting here a set of 2 way adjustable coilovers that haven't been fitted or butchered. Brand name is Ceika (ceikaperformance.com). Type 2m set. I have decided to move these along as I don't think they are going to be right for my application. I waited a couple of months for production, then received them only to find they were suited to a 240/260/280. PCD on towers too small. The owner Cedric apologised and sent me the right tops and also a couple of legs for the rears...... Then it gets awry..... Been trying to contact them again now for 2-3 weeks and yet to receive a response. My problem was I wanted to disconnect the pipework to the canister to fit new legs. This proves to be a problem caused you will let all the secret stuff out...... So we were about to start macgiver-ing a solution as im finally ready to start assembly and we came across a rather large problem. I know the height I want, I have coilovers already from the last car, I know my distances. These shock bodies are too long for my needs. A road car should have no problem, but my dedicated track use is the problem. I want 100mm and that's it. It looks as if I am going to try to recoup some cash and fix / upgrade my ksport coilovers. (Bloke at AB imports was really helpful). These shocks owe me $1800 as they stand, you will have to weld your legs / engineer them. I can measure anything you need. Spring rates are heavy at 10kg front 12 rear. Offers or interest???

So here we are, a year later, can't find time to work on the car at work so the wife kindly went back to work and built me a shed at home. Lots of time lost building the shed, but finally have something to show. So the new car came cheaply from a member here, was told not to rusty. Easy fix. As you can see, there was quite a bit of cancer, luckily I have a mate on tap that sometimes seems to do the impossible. So along with the rust repairs, we had to build a new roll cage, my plan this time was to move myself back a little more, as on impact my head bit the rollcage on the last car. So lower and further back. The main hoop now rests on the mountings for the moustache bar, bigger than required plates, front towers were severly reinforced with 3 mm plate, same as rears, rollcage extends to front towers. Removed the rear wheel well and reversed to accomodate fuel system' So, can't just let it be, fatter tyres this time, 18 x 10 wheels all round 285 wide tyres. Running 18's I should be able to re-engineer my brakes to take a 355mm ford disk up front. I had to buy new coilovers - Ceika Going to change heads on the motor to some smaller chamber heads from a 327, so more power. Now my time consuming bit, I contacted the states and I couldn't see myself getting a IMSA kit for less than $4000. Never tried before but I decided to tackle fibreglassing. This will make you laugh.... So I made some rear flares and a ducktail to my specs - whether it will work is beyond me. Decided to go the whole hog and do the whole front guard, might as well have a vent in there as well. So i am currently also fibreglassing my bonnet, and I hope to be able to also do my doors. Rust repairs are almost finished, when completed I am actually going to paint this one and make it look pretty. all the mechanical parts are done, just need a clean and check. Goal is to do supersprints and maybe play with a mate in sport sedans, although I would be down about 250hp for that game. But, not being spaceframe would probably do well in the lower class. Hoping only another 3 months to go. I only get about 15 hrs a week to work on it so its taking a long time.

Hi Phill here, been here before, but kinda went quiet. I had a pretty quick 280zx that I built up over a number of years. Filled with goodies you either love or hate. Old LS1 engine with ported heads, reasonable cam, better inlet, big pipes, dry sump, 6 speed, coilovers, big brakes. All that good work didn't stop me front hitting the wall at bathurst almost a year ago to the day at the Aus Hillclimb. [/img] Damn pics.

My old k sports were 7kg all round, they worked well, but I could get some squeeze under high load. I'm also a bit heavier so 7 would be firmer, don't Think I would want anymore

Long time since I have been here since my unfortunate demise at the aust hill climb championship. New car currently has a massive cage installed and only just finished, now we are doing a heap of rust repairs, all looked ok, but little holes turned into bigger one. Previously I used k sport coil overs with 7kg springs all round, but I found that the created a bit of roll and I never got around to increasing the spring rate. After my nudge into a concrete wall (at 170km/h) I ripped the front right out of the tower and slapped the rear pretty hard also. I just recently had to get my front teins rebuilt for my VE ute and it came back at $1000. Rather than send away all my suspension to get rebuilt/checked I have elected to buy some new dual action remote canister coil overs. Things have changed a little with this new car, we have reinforced the whole front and rear strut towers, roll cage is extended to front towers and I am going to be running 285 wide tyres all round. Also going to bump compression up to around 12.4 - 1 so should see about 450hp atw. The extra grip and hence corner loads are going to need an increase in spring rates. Ls1 with 6 speed, dry sump, massive brakes, aiming at about 1200kg. Weight saving is important- until you have a actually use the roll cage, more about occupant safety than weight reduction (wife's rules) Ok now the question... I am thinking that I should elect for 10kg front and maybe 12kg rear. My coil overs are about to go into production so any advice would be grateful. And yes, I will post a new build soon. The idea is that I would not be relying on a rear sway http://ceikaperformance.com/Type-2M-Coilover-Kit-p36.html

Was it a manual, ie is it the r200 diff, is rack and pinion still there?

You could spend $2k on accusump and good baffling and prob work fine, I was preparing to spend decent $ on built motor but couldn't justify the risk. I was using prior a big moroso pan, think it was 6.5 ltr usable, but broken motors are no fun. Dry sump can save a lot of space, easily mount coolers and filters. Mine was finished at just over $5k, my mate spent an extra $1000 cause he put the reservoir in his boot, extra line and fitting add up. I am not rich, I can only justify about $5k per year investment, so it was a big call. But to step forward that was the path. Was getting ready for a motor, but now have to rebuild/reshell. That's this year gone. A friend races sports sedans and they have been buying used NASCAR equipment of eBay, he hasn't had a problem in over a year of racing and he spent under $2000. Me personally with $20k+ worth of motor, I would have spent extra and bought new, but he has proven me wrong.

The reason for the larger set up was to eliminate issues, race car boys all feed pressure with the same pump, a few extra lines but when you can then adjust your pressure. Ls1 have pressure problems when the heat up, can easily show little to no pressure after track work coming into the pits. Qq The actual system has been foolproof, aside from taking a while to find the right oil level for the reservoir. the initial oil pressure problem was solved with the bypass, but this could be done with springs internally within the pump, my setup was ridiculously tight at the adjuster so I opted for something a little further away. I am happy with the ARE products, would recommend. Never thrown or snapped a belt and my poor motor normally lives at 6500-7000 rpm.

Message received, car coming into workshop tomorrow. If it's there it's yours. Habvent opened the door on the car in over a year so can't remember much. Will get the parts to winmalee easily for you.

As you may know, my other 280zx is worse for wear after Bathurst. So my spare is about to be stripped down. L28 injected - motor runs but there is a electrical fault (will run on cold start for 10 secs then die) Auto R180 Full interior. Standard brakes ( front and rear disks) Not trying to make money really, but if interest is shown, more care will be taken, so a handling /postage fee may apply. I am not going to spend my own money to help people out if you know what i mean. Located at blayney near Bathurst nsw

Thinking more now, how long can u wait? Would kind of like to have a car as a roller for a couple more weeks before it goes on the 2 post for mechanicals. Want to build cage first this time.

About to pull down my spare 280zx. You can have my struts and castor rods. Blayney near Bathurst. Need a LCA to make some custom ones on my project so you can't have them for awhile.

I checked those bolts as I thought something may have given up prior to the turn, the whole snapped section still in the bottom. You can't tell in the clip but power was on but you only pull so hard at ( I estimate 160 4th gear at about 5000 with 3.7). I agree with Jason that I turned in a little to late, that damn grate everyone talks about is a aim point, not a turn point...... I think I hit the gratebwhich may have unsettled it a little as I yanked the wheel. I am thinking I am going to scrap this one and build a 280z instead as there is one beside my workshop. First step will be the strip - then I am welding in even more bars this time. I am amazed how well the cage saved me. Next one will have even more cross-the-car bracing. On a side note, how hard is it to get a 285 tyre under these things. I have someone willing to unload a heap of 285/30r18 in r888.

DAMN NO PLASTIC.... 4th in sports sedans. 24th outright (15 open wheelers. 6 4wd, 2 serious racers Inwood and Trenoweth in a Jag) I was only .5 of a sec slower than Inwood in his AU supercar from the cutting to the finish. I thought they were big (kahunas), but not that big. Watching that vid it does look quick at the top, and the bloody thing didnt turn.

Right inner is creased up, pushed into my expensive headers, dry sump pump nearby, but intact. I think your right, it may be a bit of work, but may be like the phoenix and rise from the dead.

Thanx for the support and help, tomorrow is a fresh day.... My wife hasnt banned me so we will see how it looks tomorrow.

I'm fine, 4 stitches on forehead where my sunglasses were pushed by my helmet. Car is screwed. No front right suspension left, right rear has bent the hub, both right wheels broken, I can prob get about $8k worth of gear back out of it. I didn't get my plastic, think I still managed 3rd in sport sedans. Funny I did a 48.78 yesterday, but still managed a 49.1 with that big wall scrub. Will load some pics

I'm ok, carvis stuffed, hit the wall at about 160. I had my go pro going so I will upload later. Just didn't turn for the last corner. Funny thing is that I still crossed the line with a 49.1. After running the wall for 15m.