.

I probably have a latch in my box of tricks. But not the cable, but then again any cable should suffice (it should work on left or right). I'll have a check and let you know.

He says its the original brick. Those things can't get confused because they have no brain to begin with. They are all resistors and capacitors with only one really simple chip. There is no way to reprogram them at all. My bet is still the AFM flap or a loose or dirty plug somewhere. I notice in the photo the spot for the cold start injector is blank. I hope you installed the injector or blocked it off after you took that photo? If not you'll have all sorts of mixture issues.

It might help if you describe your setup. Is it a standard 280zx EFI setup? aftermarket ECU, Ignition system? Distributor? HAve you checked your fuel filter? I know I get a similar issue every time (and I mean EVERY TIME) I degrease my engine because moisture gets into one of my plugs. All I do is blow the moisture out, plug it back in and away I go. Check the connections on your throttle position sensor and the plug to your air flow meter. Of course this assumes it is a standard system. Alternatively the flap in your air flow meter could be stuck. Usually this is because the flap has been bent as a result of a back fire but I guess it could also be caused by crud getting caught in there. Just disconnect the piping to the front and stick a screw driver in (gently) to check that the flap swings freely (you should only feel light pressure from the spring. If all else fails you can just give me the car problem solved.

Ha ha good one!

I had the same understanding regarding "only one organisation running a regularity at the mountain" but nobody treats it as a regularity anyway so lets run an economy run ......................The person who can complete 5 laps and check their economy the quickest wins

No no, on the right hand corner of the bumper. It looks like an arial or something. In the first photo I thought it was something in the background but it keeps showing up in the other photos too.

I like it, but whats with that thing sticking out of the right hand side of the front bumper???

Does anyone know what sort of air flow is generally required to run an L series? I grabbed a calculator of the net and applied the details of my engine and it comes out at 2,968 CFM at 1000 RPM up to a whopping 38,000 CFM at 8500 RPM. That sounds over the top to me.....any thoughts? I have an idea that would boost air pressure in the intake like a turbo but would not require any fan blocking the intake. But by my calculations it would be a stretch to achieve 38,000 CFM. But on the plus side there is no restriction required so even if it only supplied modest boost at low revs there is no down side at high revs.

Errrr guys, bulleyboy99 was asking about driving to Perth. I know zeds are generally reliable but that sort of drive in an unproven car might be asking for trouble. If you do take it on I'd also take a torque wrench, upper and lower radiator hoses and a large container of water........a mobile phone might become your best friend

I think Disco Spewed on that dato

pm sent

Yeah but what did he do that was dodgy?

It is a common misunderstanding. The 280 was seen as bloated because it was heavier than the 240 but in comparison to most cars on the road it is still light. The 280 is about 1230 KG while a 260 2+2 is around 1150 KG. (Now just wait for all the corrections to flood in)

I doubt its the weight as a 280zx only weighs around 100KG more than a 260z 2+2

L20 into the duel cab phffffff! put the 7M-GTE in it

Oh, I guess you were wanting some details They are not cheap. There are better brake options around for less than the price but all the other options are dependant on your ability to engineer your own adaptors. If you can't do that you'll pay more than the difference for a professional to make them for you. I am extremely happy with the kit I purchased 5 years ago. The advantage is the ability to just bolt it all on with no additional parts or midifcation required. Even for a mechanical novice like myself it was simple. Getting a modifcation certification is much easier with these packages too because they seem to trust a package like these that are tried and proven over some bespoke design. The results are also very good. I have not once found myself wanting for more brakes. Even at the end of Conrod quickly slowing from 200K + Your only other viable options for the same money are if one of the generous people on this forum offers to engineer a conversion for some other brakes or to purchase a second hand package. I hope that helps.... at least more than my previous reply.

yes

I say keep the 2+2 and the yellow thing in the shed and sell the minister of finance you'll live twice as long that way which means you'd only be in the second quartile

It does look like a very nice car but I doubt you'd get $15K for it. It is possible but you'd be waiting a long time for that sort of buyer to come along. There just isn't the market for the 2+2. I think you should keep it....Just have a look at all the posts from people who have sold their Zeds and are regretting it.

What style are you after? any photos of the type you want?

+1 But I think his setup was a rather involved conversion. It certainly gets results though.

Its still an expensive exercise if you haven't got the skills or equipment to weld them in.

I have just gone from 250lb to 300lb in my 240z it has turned out to be too hard and the car now severely understeers so I am planning to go back to 275lb but for a 280zx I'd suggest 300lb should be about right due to the extra chasis weight.

I have a free block in Brissy but it has a snapped head bolt and some damage where some dip (namely me) tried to remove the snapped bolt.....FAIL!!!

Way to ruin my mud wrestling fantasies dude