.

Excellent, so where can I get a new magnet plate for an L28 dizzy?

Yeah I plan to install an after market ECU. I am not sure which brand, it just depends which one comes up for the right price.

Can I get some further advice on EFI on an L engine? Just wondering what are the options and associated costs for timing sensors? Peter Mac, does the dizzy you mention provide a timing output to the ECU? Can I buy a crank angle sensor for an L? Is hall effect just a coil of wire wrapped around the coil lead? Zedback, I know you converted a 280zx dizzy to provide a timing output. What was involved? Any other options?

Got mine on Saturday. Modified it over the weekend and it is now in the car. I haven't tried it yet. A couple of additional notes: The end closer to the air filter on the Toyota item does not have anything to attach the air intake hose. Luckily the bolt pattern matches the adaptor from the original AFM. Be careful though as there is the potential for a hair line gap out to the atmosphere. I used silicone to seal mine. Because this item is from the original AFM it fits in the same place as the old one (no need for any adaption). This adaptor has a restriction in the middle to reduce the flow area down to match the small flap area of the original AFM. Because the Toyota AFM has a larger flap area the restriction on the adaptor is not suitable. I filed mine down to open it up to match the flap area of the Toyota AFM. The end closer to the throttle body on the Toyota is 90mm diameter. You will need an adaptor to down size it to match the fitting between the AFM and Throttle body. My piece here was home made to match my aftermarket throttle body. I was able to get the adaptor from Supercheap. It was a tight fit but I was able to make it work. Sorry I forgot to take photos and now its in I am not taking it out because it took some effort to squeeze it in.

As the subject suggests I am after a Z22 crank for a friend rebuilding a 1600. I know its unlikely but I figure it can't hurt to ask the question here.

Steve, Just keep in mind the L24/L26 alternator was externally regulated. The L28 item was internally regulated. So when you change to the internally regulated you will need to alter the wiring. Its not a big deal but keep in mind you can't just swap them and expect to drive away.

yes photos please Can you also give more detail regarding the model car it came off. Thanks

I have bought a wreck that I assume had not been driven in months or even years, yet when I cut the fuel lines fuel still spurted out. I think what is happening is the pressure drops to 0 while the pump is not engaged so long as the ambient temp is low (ie over night). But I think rising ambient temps are enough to cause a spurt and it might not be enough pressure to register on a gauge. The bottom line is don't panic. If you haven't got leaking fuel or fuel odors around the engine bay don't go looking for a problem because you are just as likely to cause new ones.

It depends how stuck your plug is. But I have done it using a combination of large socket adaptors including one of those flexible elbow/joints and a short extention. I did find it necessary to change the combination as the plug starts coming out. I have tried the breather method too and it does work but its slow. I am keen to hear if anyone has easier methods.

Its not just a matter of clearing the trumpets, you must also leave enough of a gap to allow air flow into the trumpet.

it is cosmetic. I made a fiberglass cowl cover. I made mine without the vents.

OK, well I might not be able to demonstrate 17 inch wheels on a zed but here is a practical demonstration how 16 inch wheels ride on a zed

Looks great mate. I am sure you will have pleanty of years of enjoyment. It seems like it didn't take you long to change your mind regarding the turbo. So do you get any rubbing with those back wheels?

I have one but it is far from perfect. I would not be after much for it (Say $10). It is kinda straight but not perfect and the ends where it bolts on are rusted on. Let me know if you can't find a better one.

Also make sure you consider the legality. There seems to be an assumption these days that you can have any size wheels and tyres so long as they fit. There are actual limits and if you exceed them you could be booked (depending on the rules in your state or territory). I'm not saying don't do it, just saying go in knowing all the facts. Keep in mind guard and spring clearance too.

Yeah the WRX STI runs an R180. Externally they are exactly the same as the Zed R180. Internally they are totally different. Hence the need for the output shafts. The 3.9 version is very common and quite cheap (around $400) but the 4.4 is a bit rare and more expensive (around $800)

I have been through 4 diffs in the 4 years of having my 240z on the road. 1st was an old school 3.9 R200. This was way too heavy. So then I changed to a Detroit locked old school 4.6 R180. This was a great diff but the wear and tear scared me. So then I changed to a WRX STI 3.9 R180 with the output flanges from John C in the US. This was great and really got the car moving down Conrod but I was never happy with the ratio for most track work. So now I have another WRX STI 4.4 R180 with the same output shafts. This is by far my favourite setup.

Yup thats me. The one I am wrecking at the moment is an auto but I think I have kept a peddle box from another manual. I certainly have a few targas available. Don't take too long to make your list as I plan to ditch this wreck within a few weeks. Just let me know which bits you need so I don't discard them.

Welcome. Where on the north side are you. I am near Strathpine if you need some inspiration (or ideas on how not to do stuff ) I also have a couple of 280s one of which I am wrecking incase you need any bits....Just make a list and let me know. Good luck, Greg.

I don't get how that sprocket could fit that setup....is there only one for two cams?......or is there two? and then how would thefit next to each other.......wowser!!

If so, how?

Hell yes. If we can get a group buy together with 50 or more takers we could do it for about $500 a piece.....I doubt we could get that many takers though.

Nice parts. I am particularly inerested in FRP doors for an S30 but I think the price might hold me back for a while. I do find it amusing that so many people ask for photos....What do people expect to see other than the part mentioned? Can you really see any indication of quality from a pic?

Yes, the tap will leak regardless whether the heater is on or off. You either have to replace it or disconnect the hose in the engine bay.....or start wearing gum boots when you drive....Keep in mind the longer you leave it the more rust potential you have.

The leak is almost certain to be the heater tap. This is the piece that connects via a cable to the "climate controls". It controls the amount of coolant flowing into the cabin's heater, thus controlling the amount of heat. They were an ingenious device cleverly designed to dump hot fluid on your clutch foot as soon as they reach a certain age. You have a couple of options: a) Re-route the coolant hose so it no longer comes into the cabin at all. (This might be an OK stop gap but not a long term solution) b) Buy a replacement for the original item. This will work for about another 15 years. I am not sure if you can get replacements from Nissan but Black Dragon does have them. C) I have heard that you can do a conversion, A Ford item was mentioned, and I think it ends up with the valve in the engine bay rather than in the cabin. Sorry but I don't know any other details. The difficulty would be connecting up the original control. Just one more possibility. Have you checked whether there is moisture coming through the windscreen plenum? (The vents in front of the windscreen) The plenum is a common rust spot and if that's the case they drop rain water straight through on your feet. I hope for your sake this is not the case.