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Neuby last won the day on October 27 2019

Neuby had the most liked content!

About Neuby

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  • Birthday 02/04/1985

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  1. Its been a long time between drinks! So the L20ET dizzy is back together and the car runs. I've been working on a safe ignition map good enough to run on the dyno as part of the 200rwhp experiment. I'm pretty chuffed with the map. It feels torque when the cam kicks in. Total advance is 36degrees. If I had some dyno time and a proper knock sensor I reckon I could get 40 degrees to work. Anyway, heres the update video!
  2. So I tackled the one task to do with the optical dizzy swap that I had procrastinated. I swapped the turbo oil pump drive spindle with the engine still in the car. The swap itself isn’t hard just a little awkward. I threw the process into a tutorial style vid ‘cause I thought it might help someone....one day.... I got in contact with Mori-san from Kameari Race Works about a substitute for the missing splined collar on the dizzy and a newly manufacturer collar is on its way. Once the collar is here there is no excuse stopping the final ignition tune!
  3. I bit of perseverance (and a new CAS haha) has paid off! I have a functioning L20ET distributor that my Megasquirt MS1 can read. I fiddled with a few mods to the board taken from a few sites that have V3.0 board info. Ultimately I could have left the mods at removal of C12, C30, D1 and D2 but I left one of the diodes in as backflow protection. I didn’t need a pull up resistor but I left the one I had installed from the S12c pad. The Fuelmiser crank angle sensor Sparebox first sent was faulty through bench testing. Sparebox quickly replaced it which was great. I slapped the dizzy back together with the DYIAutoTune 12-1 trigger wheel which means I can run COP later if I choose. The next step for me is to swap in the turbo oil pump drive with the engine in the car. It’s the one item of work I have been putting off for obvious reasons haha!
  4. Not a worry Gav! I’ve tested the CAS in isolation and it’s not working properly. The megasquirt board functions properly when tested on the JimStim. It would not be the first time a new CAS doesn’t work. Over the decades of having VL turbos and distributor based SR20s, I’ve found literal 50% of all new CAS for optical nissan distributors seem to be faulty.
  5. Its always frustrating when things don’t go to plan. All the parts arrived to rebuild the distributor much faster than what I was advised and I had the dizzy housing PBM blasted and scrubbed to a raw appearance. I really like to look of the housing. I’m still hesitant to commmit to swapping the oil pump drive shaft to the turbo shaft until I know for certain that this dizzy works. So the dizzy was put back together and mock wired to the Megasquirt for an RPM signal simulation. No dice. Didn’t work. Nothing. I suspect the new crank angle sensor is not a functioning unit but will require more investigation. So looks like another few weeks without tuning the ignition for the car unless I put the old Pertronix L24 distributor back in. All I want to see is if I can crack 200rwhp on SU carbs....
  6. Its been a while since my last post about this car. The brakes have been rebuilt. You can see those videos on the channel. In summary for the brakes: • Rear drum cylinders and MC were sent to South Coast Brake Resleevers • The MC was stuffed but the resleevers had a NOS MC lying around so I got that which I’m chuffed about! • Rear drum cylinders were resleeved to a high quality cause they were shagged • I rebuilt the front calipers myself So the brakes are on and bleed but I have not go little red off the blocks just yet. I really want to use the optical dizzy that Gav gifted me. I had one big cost hang up that ultimately determine if I used the optical dizzy or used a CAS from One Six Industries and wastes spark and that was the turbo oil pump drive. Nissan dealerships and Nissan Australia parts had not had one in stock for over 20 years. Getting one from somewhere the US was pushing upwards of $200USD. I was getting sad. Lucky enough I came across a new product post from Kameari who had decided to make there own when the genuine item price increased. The Kameari unit cost ¥11,000 which was heaps cheaper than any other pump drive. I put my order in and it turned up pretty quickly. So project optical distributor has commenced in full! See the video here:
  7. The turbo distributors run an optical CAS system that Nissan used through the RB engines. It can be configured to run sequential injection and coil over plug. Sorry to hijack. Funny story is I’ve just got a turbo distributor but I’m after a drive shaft!
  8. Hi guys, I know these are as rare as hens teeth but I thought I’d try the forums first. Must be in good condtion.
  9. Sorry to clarify rotate the leads around one spot on the dizzy ie 60 degrees change and then retard in the brackets. From memory this was 15-20 degrees static advance with one tooth out. Similar to what Linton has suggest.
  10. Back to rebuilding the brake system this week. I decided to stick with drums on the rear. Having made that decision both the rear brake cylinders and brake MC will be sleeved to last longer than I will. So the rear brake cylinders and MC came out easy enough. The left side brake cylinder is properly frozen, not even the adjuster nut came out with ‘hammer time’ persuasion. I thought that I’d need to get new rear cylinders but after a chat with chap (after the youtube video was made) who will be handling the sleeving, the sleeving workshop can get anything apart. So rear brakes and MC have been posted away. I’m looking forward to the results!
  11. I had a dizzy one (or more) tooth out on my engine. I was able to verify timing by moving the leads around one location on the cap and retard the dizzy as far as it would go. That got me near the mark and the engine behaved properly.
  12. So, I came across some RB30 optical dizzies in my spares and I thought “I wonder if this will fit the 240?”. I’ve seen at least one photo of an RB30 distributor on an L series before and I think it’s doable. While the locked standard distributor works well enough, and optical cam angle sensor can allow me to use COP ignition. I have a 12-1 chopper disc that replaces the 360+6 standard disc made by DIYAutoTune. Depending on the ECU, this chopper disc can be used for 4 cylinder COP applications as well. I’m not sure if I should be shamed, I onced owned and modified a two tone gold VL Calais Turbo which was a beast when it ran and I found the optical distributor to be very realisable. Anyways, see the video below for the initial checks before I get too carried away with the idea...
  13. What started as a bleed of the brakes has evolved into a brake system rebuild. As long as I can remember the right drum brake cylinder bleed nipple has been sheared off at the base. It’s one of those things that I’ve know about but never actioned fobbing off to do it next time. No excuses now. Time to fix it. The end game brake goal for this car is a set of Sumitomo MK63 font calipers to retain the standard master cylinder. Not sure if vented or solid rotor. I guess this will be dependant on what’s available. I’m not in a rush to get a pair and considering it is likely to come from Japan I’ll wait until a good deal surfaces. I’ve have a spare pair of Sumitomo S16 cailpers and rebuild kits plus brake pads to cover off on the fronts. The rear drum brake cylinders look new so I’ll get some rebuild kits for those. The master cylinder I will remove and send away to be stainless steel sleeve which should make it good for life. I am bummed that tuning is on hold but it is important to have road worthy car.
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