Aaron Neubauer

Looks good! Any particular runner length your aiming for?

Found this neat little table, its part way down the page. I found it when I was looking at a cheap upgrade to the S15. Front disc brakes I wonder if you could substitute some other Nissan brake calipers for the R33 GTST ones.

Racer Brown on turbocharging May be of some help.

Finally some painting progress has been made! Just kidding! Looking very schaaaaweet! I think I want to marry those flares (I'm sure this is allowed in NZ....I kid I kid! ), I don't know what the missus will say though......

We used to smear a thin film (only a bee's dick thick) of clean oil on the inside diameter of the silicon piping under the clamp. Not only does it help seal the piping, it also makes leak diagnosis easy as you can see where the oil has been pushed aside from the escaping air. I want to see the results of the intake plenum modifications.

Corny, but well suited! +1 for the photo Bluerat mentioned

Bit of an update. I'm waiting on a set of L24 rods to be able to send off the bottom end to be balanced. I still have time before the rods arrive so I can still choose which block to use. I have both an N42 block (N42 head off of this is no good....can anyone say BLOCK PUTTY!! ) and an F54 block (with N42 head out of a patrol). I will only be using 89mm pistons, but I have conflicting advice as to which block to use. Can anyone lend advice?? In the meantime, I may try to adapt one of the RB20DET boxes I have lying around as per the guide Lurch posted. As the 260z 2+2 tailshaft fits the spline of the RB box, I will most likely shorten it to suit. Hopefully the RB20DET box would be able to take the torque of the stroker....... I will most likely copy Zedman's brake upgrade, so its time to hit Ebay! I have a very good mate (not in THAT way...) who is a fitter and turner so it shouldn't cost much for machining *cough cough*. For the rear's I will get in contact with Robco Eng for their bracket for the 280ZX calipers. I will probably be selling my ZG flares and front bar that I got from Benzed as I don't particularly want to 'damage' the car so to speak. Be watching 'parts for sale' if your interested! I will probably get a BRE style spoiler and fit that. Cheers, Neubs

Was the work needed to fit the offset bushes and the redrilling of the rotor the only work needed? Everything else lines up? If that's the case, I know the brakes I'm gunna use!

Thats the BRE spoiler I'm chasing! Was that through Alfa Scrumpy?

Perfect ARC stick welding and everything else is a piece of piss. The size of the welder would be dictated by the material you plan to weld and the level of weld penetration needed. Lurch would be the man to get advice from.

Heck yes! Very nice Scando!

I didn't think 240Z were heavy enough to have 3000cc force induction? http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/pdf/NCOP3_Section_LA_Engines_3Feb2006.pdf Refer page 18 They better not be! I just got rid of the spare RB25 VCT head I had!! http://www.geocities.com/rb30_twincam/

Thats a new one! 'Children eater spec'! Looks good and I await the video to come! I'm hoping that number plate is a photoshop..... :-\

It'll be interesting to compare the different approaches to manifold design that have come up in project journals.

Nooooiiiice!

No idea which ones they exactly are but Datsfreak got them through Benzed so they would be off the list on sizes/offsets he sells. I would love a 5 point harness but to my knowledge they aren't ADR approved. If there are ADR approved harness that are more than 4 point TELL ME NOW!!! I want the lap sashes gone! Under the rear guards will need a good tidy up to fit over the rims 'properly'. There is some evidence of rubbing on the rear tires. That sucks about Simmons! That will sure dent my plans sideways..... Thanks for the interest anyways.

Spool conrods have been making L28 rods for a while now and I enquired a while ago as to getting a set of custom rods made up to L14 length. There is a minimum 36 rod order limit. :'( I thought I would mention this while people are talking about the honda piston/L14 rod combo. Spool conrods are cheaper per conrod than it is to fully prep the standard ones.

I've finally graduated out of the bus brigade (refer my other project, which is now a parts car)! I bought this daily driven car off of Datsfreak. Funny enough I bought his brother's 260Z 2+2 ex-daily too. Small world! It's number 629 which I think is reasonably low for a 240? It is pretty stock apart from the mega cool Rota RBs and exhaust. It did have a full resto in the 90's though (thanks Datsfreak for the car history!). I cleaned it up on the weekend and took some photos with the digi SLR... I haven't even owed the car a week and I already have a formal in November to go to. It seems I've become the 'car guy' of the neighbourhood . There is a few maintanence things that need to be attended too like the charging system is on its way out, new ball joints on the steering arms and attention to the steering column combination switch (sticking indicator cost me a $60 fine for 'failing to indicate'!). Plans include: respray in the same red add the ZG flares that I bought for the 2+2 as well as a BRE style spoiler wider wheels to go under the flares (was thinking simmons FR17s) height adjustable coil-overs (Datsfreak threw in some nice eibach springs, just need a sleeving kit) bigger brakes front and rear (Datsfreak threw in a 15/16 MC) finally build that dang L31 I've been collecting parts for! (I have both F54 and N42 blocks now, N42 courteous of Datsfreak) speedhut gauge faces (because I can barely read the stock gauges as is! ) fixed back seats and ADR 4 point harnesses half cage (way down the track!) suspension work, ie harder bushes, swaybars, etc I would like to take this opportunity to thank Datsfreak for all his help! Good luck with the R33. The end use of this car will be mainly Sunday driving and Sunday track driving .

I'll have a crack at an answer. Petroleum (hydrocarbon) based oils are continuously breaking down right from point of production (synthetic additives slow this process) from my understanding, heat is just a catalyst. What you have proposed DevilZ can work for race cars which spend 99% of their running life in motion and have a continuous flow of air over a radiator (and the whole engine bay!). These race cars may use a specific blend of oil suited to its duties. For street cars which are subject to heat soak (stop and start traffic) and hot points within the oil's circulation (ie, turbo) it never hurts to have supplementary cooling. Both our drift cars run oil coolers for this reason (cyclic heating and cooling during runs). These systems are all centered around longevity and reliability. Point 2. Oil pressure never drops off? With a turbo motor, oil will always heat up quicker than NA as the oil is absorbing heat energy from the turbo due to the exhaust gases. It could be possible that there is something wrong with the sender or the gauge or even a blockage within the oil's circulation path. Another thing to look at is the grade of oil you are using (I hope its fully synthetic being a turbo ) as it might be far to thick even when warm. I used to run 10W-40 in my old VL Calais Turbo, which might have been a little thin considering you could hear the hydraulic lifter runout frequently in summer lol! I plan to put an oil cooler and remote oil filter (to aid in oil changes ) on my stroker L30.....if I ever get around to it......

There was a very JDM looking white 240Z out on track at the QR drift practice last Friday (8/05/09), number plates 50RTA. I didn't get any photos but I did find out that it is running an L28. Must admit it did quite well for an old girl!

That there is pure gold! haha! Love the work!

Unique idea with the crowl. Very interesting! Keep us posted.

Awww! I have to wait longer! Just kidding I wait with baited breathe.......

Guilty as charged.....

So it wasn't pad failure rather localised stress around the dampers......now we have evidence that you drop the clutch!