Zedman240®

Never bad mouthed the bus (had one not long ago!!)...and you lucky b$%^rd! Its going to be a great sized workshop when it's done...I have to cope with a shoe box size garage.. When I can afford it, bigger shed with a damn hoist is first on the list!

Sent PM re: 240 number plate light...

Just looked up Fact service manual, for a 240Z anyway, 290cc for the front and 320cc for the rear. With a 260 being a larger diameter, Haynes manual doesn't go that far into detail, you'll need a Nissan FWS manual.

I usually buy any good brand oil for clutch type LSD's...avoiding the "thrifty" brands.

If you want a real firm ride, you may have to get springs made; Kings lowered heavy duty are only around 170-200 lb/in when you need approx 300lb/in and ready for the track with as Lurch mentioned heavier oil in the struts. A 22mm front roll bar and 16mm rear bar should be a good place to start. Then run around a track and have some fun! I had some springs made locally for around $300 for the four. With a another zed, I used a heavier hydraulic oil in the struts but with 350lb/in springs....let me say it re-adjusted some discs in my back while driving on the road.. You found bumps where you never thought they existed!

To remove the tacho, there are two wingnuts on the back that you have to undo, then unplug the electrical connector and remove that screw from the front/top and it should come out from the front. It may be easier with the steering wheel removed. Removing it is simple; re-installation is the PITA! edit: Sorry..that's for 240Z! Garvice has the right info!

I think alot of the police on the road aren't even sure of the rules relating to CH plates! I remember coming back from Point Cook on a Sunday after having Don Hill (NDSOC CH Plate - call it "Tech inspector") check my zed over and giving me the letter you need for Vicroads to register, a cop pulled me over and asked me what I was doing. Mind you my zed didn't have a number plate and no reg sticker either, but I did have a unregistered vehicle permit. He asked "why are you doing this on a Sunday?" and "what paperwork have you got?" I had to explain to him why I had to see Don on a Sunday to get the letter and in detail explain the process of obtaining CH reg. By the look on his face, I think he learned something that afternoon! Also, it helped I wasn't a smartass as everyone knows, they can really ruin your whole afternoon if they want. He let me on my way..thankfully! Had to explain all this twice because I was pulled over on the way there as well!

That is true, but I'm not sure if the 2 seater and 2+2 axles are different...anyone know for sure? It's got me thinking now...may not be able to sleep tonight.

Mike, I thought the casting at the bottom of the strut where the wheel bearings/axle for a 2+2 was a bit longer because the rear of a 2+2 is a tad wider, they made the casting "poke" out more so having a longer axle? Did a comparison years ago but could be wrong...

A good idea is to check and adjust the rear drums. If there is excessive travel in the drum shoes, that gives you a pedal that travels a fair way before anything happens. It helps if you have the tool that rotates that little ratchet mechanism to adjust the shoes to drag slightly on the drum. Try that before bleeding?

Price drop and also includes a flywheel.. $320

George, you just have to be patient and the right buyer will find it. Try my105.com you may have a good chance there. Oh, buy this months RACE magazine with a pic of a V8 Escort on the cover, has an article called "clubbie corner" and they chat about the bad CD figure of these cars. Apparently a Hummer H2 has a better drag co-efficent! He builds his own streamlined body and it looks awesome..

Almost 100% of the dash/windscreen forward will fit a 260 2 seater; some exceptions with a 240Z. Diff from 2+2, rear arms but not struts, rear tailights but not surrounds will fit into a 2 seater. There are some small details that I can't think of also..

DAT, don't worry, I've been informed by a member of the "force" that they can canary a new car if they wanted to. A good percentage of cars on the road today I'm sure are not roadworthy; I know mine isn't! (windscreen and just other minor $h1ty things). How many cars do you see with no rear lights operating at all? Or faded rear number plates...I thought they had a blitz on that years ago.....yet I see them on a daily basis.

Well done Lance, even if you did pay double, it is still worth it. Many members here are still looking for any type of zed to grab and yours for that amount is a steal. Don't worry about what to do with it for the moment, most important thing is fix the rust, and just get it going as a stocky! You will have plenty of time to think about what you want to do with it while you are lying underneath it with an angle grinder removing all the rust and swarf from your eyes and skin.

Thanks Garvice, Bruce came to my rescue! Had exactly what I needed. Thanks again Bruce, I owe you one! Picked them up today...

Yes, they are shorter. I had to make some spacers to lift them in my unmodified struts. So if you section the struts approx 25-30mm, they should be ok.

Hey Terry, Depends where you live; my carrier pigeon can't fly too far with a pair of drums hanging from his feet..

This is probably the best video to show new members before they join any forum...I had a good laugh..enjoy! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6qhZZU-w6Y

It's a standard thing Rob at the Z Factory does with the battery trays when restoring them. Rather than weld them back in, drill out the spot welds, repair then just bolt the tray back in. Doesn't look as good as new but it's alot easier to clean! Thanks Bruce, if you have them, I'll do your next engine swap for free! hehehe

N42's are heads from the L28 engines. I had that same combo in my 240 and got plenty of Hp. I'd do the swap, only cost is time and some gaskets. If you have the original L26 with matching numbers, keep it stored and modify the L28.

Len, are the pulley diameters the same for the fan belt? or are they under-driven? Thanks I know several people running the BMW style balancer with no issues. I'm tempted to give one a shot!

Thanks Tim, with the 280 alternators, the volt reg is built in so you have to remove the one from the side of the engine bay. Once you install the alternator, unplug the original volt reg, build a small wire loop that goes from the white wire to the yellow wire. That's what I've done on both of my previous zeds. I have a Enzed near me but if I can find one that's like in the pic, I'd prefer that..

Greetings all, been to all the wreckers around my area, asked everyone I know, looking for the lower radiator hose connection that goes onto the front timing cover (that's held on with the two 10mm bolts) but with the 3 outlets; 1) Radiator hose 2) Heater hose that runs along the block 3) The smaller hose connection that points up from #2 And also after the hose connection that screws into the cylinder head at the rear next to the firewall but with 2 hose connections in the shape of a "V" I believe both these parts come on 280ZX engines, so if you have removed them and fit your original 240/260 stuff, please let me know! Let me know how much and when! Also, if you have a 280ZX alternator, please let me know again! Picture = thousand words so if you have these below......PM me!!!

Don't forget there has to be a slight amount of play between that rod and master; you don't want the brakes dragging on. Jack it up and see if you can spin a wheel freely.