Zedman240®

+1 but to make sure, if you can put it in first gear and find out the ratio, that will confirm what it is.. Apparently it was common practice for repairers to chop and change housings with internals from other boxes..

Better Brakes in Cheltenham always makes my braided lines or reco's my brake components. They are near DFO next to Moorabbin airport off Grange Rd.. I always use vise grips first if the nut is too tight to undo with a flare spanner...

I chased up almost all the interior vinyl from a very kind member on HybridZ. I asked for a complete interior and he removed one (except the roof lining) from a 71 model he was "parting out". All up including shipping was approx $200 to my door. Even got the rare cardboard bits from the rear strut towers!

Just inject your L series motor...I did that all the time when I had my L series motor in the zed!

Ewww..that "Corvette" one just needs some side pipes to completely kill it, and that green one does belong to someone in the NDSOC..was on a club run many moons ago.. Convertibles I think would only be accepted if they came out of Nissan factories..

It should all go real easy if the distributor / oil pump drive has been installed properly. I had an issue when I did a swap with a zed I had. Just to get it running, all the leads had to be moved over by one terminal and a few "adjustments" had to be made..

Well with my 25DE, I had all the gauges working except the tacho. For the temp gauge, you need an R32 one, as the R33 unit will give an icorrect reading and the oil pressure sender from a L series, screws into the RB block.

If you want cheap H4 conversions...just search the help yo self wreckers for any cars with 7" H4 inserts and rip them out! I removed a Bosch set off an old Volvo once..they were like new and I paid $12 for the two. There's 1000's of cars with that type of headlight; hardest part is finding a set with no sandblasting on the glass and a perfect reflector with the rubber seal intact.

As above, I'm after the older style of tow hooks fitted to 240Z's or some 260's. I have plenty of the two bolt loop / under the bumper ones, just need the single hook type. If I can find a pic, I'll post it! If anyone can assist, It'll be appreciated! Thanks

If you find you can't make up your mind, just go the original colour it came dressed in. Found out mine was white, been thinking about a color change...

Greetings... share a few pics when you can!

+1 for that....Wish I could fly or take a plane there!

I've got a pair of front struts if you still need a pair. Just no hubs or discs and no tops (the part with the 3 studs that bolt to the body). I think they are called insulators?

The only time I've see that car is when it was parked on Warrigal Rd in Cheltenham on the way to work years ago back then for sale.

Chris, the ballast wires have to be connected because with a 12V coil, if you still leave the ballast resistor there, the coil will be running with only around 9 Volts. When you join them, the coil will get the full 12V and not just when starting but during "run" also. You can also get the distributor "B" terminal power from that connection too. Just run another wire from the joined ballast resistor wires to the distributor.

It's always hard to sell just two rims...

Sach, when you shorten your strut, the replacement shocks are normally shorter so when you remove a section of your original strut, you don't need the spacer. The spacer is only there to make up the distance so the gland nut can hold the shock in place. So when you shorten the strut, the shock travel stays the same but the whole strut is shorter than the original. So you have lowered your car without touching the platforms or lowering the springs. If you want I can draw up a real crude picture in Windows paint to explain...

I'll pobably be there Zedless, but there for a sticky beak...

Pauly, you're not one of those "watchers" on most of my auctions are you? good guess BTW.. hehehehe

This might help explain.. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Velocity_stack

If you're surprised I found them on ebay, you won't believe how much I paid....They were from Tassie. Locky, I'm sure for around the $500 mark you can get some headers made in tuned length; zed headers aren't that complex. Ask around some exhaust places. Just do heaps of research to find out lengths and diameters etc..

Excuse the little detour, but thanks for that pic Gavin, bought a set of extractors from ebay and was trying to identify them. They look very similar to those! Itching to try them out to see how they work. Apparently the 6 into 1's work the best I've heard.

+1 with that. I'm sure anything that increases track width is not legal.

Nahh..I sold the suspension a while ago. The point of installing coil overs in a car is to be able to lower the car and still keep a good or stock amount of wheel travel. You can just install the coilovers but if you lower the collars low enough, be prepared to drive the car around on the bump stops. When I installed the Koni's in my current struts, spacer had to be used to raise up the cartridge so the big nut on the top was able to hold it in place. If you want to section the strut, you can remove the amount from the strut to the length of the spacer. I removed approx 35mm from my struts from memory.

260 2 seater ones should fit but 2+2 rear hub carrier castings are different. Fronts from both fit the 240Z. There are some around just be on the lookout. have some fronts here if you need them but missing the tops.