Zedman240®

Nissan R383

OOps! I have to come down and pick up by bits! Forgot!! sorry...

I think you will get the main thing to look for... condition of the body. Mechanicals can be replaced or repaired easily, but bodywork can take months and many $$$ to complete. If you find an unfinished project but with many pictures of its build/repair, that should be a safe bet. If they didn't take any or many pics, they did that for a reason. Its something that they don't want to remember! Interiors are a bonus if they are complete, but if bits are missing, alot of them can be obtained in the US. If you jump on any of the US Z forums, there is always someone there that can help. They helped me many times.

Theres a guy on ebay that imoprts LSD's from Japan; if you msg him he may be able to source a 3.9. He usually sells 4.11's on ebay (username nnn67 I think?) for about $1050. Or try Adelaide Jap imoprts.

I think it moves around due to some reason is what I've heard. May not be a good idea to post on the forum..

One of those actually wrote off my dad's Austin! Just a standard P76 though..hated them ever since..

The cam angle sensor on the front timing belt cover of the RB triggers the coil igniter which then fires the coil packs. Second one not sure.. I have seen a dry sump on a L series. Tom Cantwell's 240Z with L28 and Motec Later RB's came with the variable cam on the inlet? side. That's all I can help with at the moment!

Go back and grab the ignition module! hehe

I've known Adam and his zed now for many years..I think if there was any major rust in it it would've shown up by now! Drives and goes very well...

Most likely it will need an external igniter to fire the coil. The good ol' Bosch 022 modules are easy to wire up. The 3 wires could be positive, negative and pulse signal output at a guess. You will need a wiring diagram for more accurate details. You will have to find out if it runs on 5V or 12V and what wire is what. I'm just guessing.

Hmm..let me put my glasses on..can't quite make that out..

The zed tacho's are triggered by the +ive side of the coil, not like other tacho's being negative.

The only shiny button I have is on the toilet...hahaha its all good

Is that a Prince badge on the front?

If you want to see one or three in action, a visit to Rob at the Z Factory you will see a flock of them. If you are game to make one if you can't locate one that is, grab some dimensions and a welder.

Laurence I think (correct if I'm wrong tho) can only source very good second hand Dunlop D01J's in a 225- 50 16" depending on condition for around $100 each. On ebay sometimes is a shop called St George tyres in NSW that sell Toyo's at a good price. Around $12-1300 a set. Do a search for "semi slick" and he comes up most of the time. I bought some tyres from Laurence (Lgee) and will be finding out how good they are at the Island!

Welcome...would've been better in the intro section but anyway.. A budget of around 10K will get you one that still needs work. If you can almost double it, that would get you something half decent; like an un finished project with all the hard work done. As a first car I'd be a bit weary..better off with a small 4 cylinder thing like a Toyota.

Which dump are you heading off to? I'll just hang around there...

From memory the starter motor bolts were two different lengths.. I'm thinking they were a different thread pitch being a metric fine. I can find out when I get home this arvo. M12 is the diameter anyway.

Unwrap the wiring loom from where it comes through the rad support panel near the coil; less wires and the best chance of finding it there.

50mm is alot to remove from a strut but if that's what you wanted to do, Koni can shorten the shocks too to suit. The car we be ultra low but yet still have a good amount of suspension travel.

Heres the pic; beyond the centre resonator is a little hard to see but from the header secondaries, they just both go straight into the resonator then what you see in the pic.

Well, some more progress today, hazards worked like a charm, but when I went to test the indicators, I had the little arrows in the tacho wrong way round. Left was right and yeah..not good. Easy fix though and now its all sorted. All the lights work, just have to tackle the wipers which are dead, and blower motor which just blows fuses. Dash is all done and heater control panel.

Even without the plates Rev, you can't mistake that zed for anyone else! At this rate, you should be done by next week..

Koni Yellows for 240z are the 8641-1060SPORT. Fit in the front and rear... A 20mm spacer is needed for the front pair though (with a small loss in travel the only downside). When and if you section the struts, when you remove that 20-25mm section, you use the threaded sleeve as a reinforcement where the join is.