Zedman240®

From memory (mind you I'm getting older today) was around $30. But get the part number before you call; makes it alot easier and less errors. I think I gave him a list of all the pinion part numbers when I was there...

I bought my last purple one (for 4.3) from Trevor at Brighton Nissan...give him a ring with the part #

Instead of the S20 head (which only really fits the S20 block) a real easy to obtain OS Giken head would be the best on the L28 block with the rest:

Thanks everyone... Tim, what do you get someone that has everything? Some cash to pay it all off! j/k Just another day at work..on the forums!

Some nice cars there... You may have seen this before but just in case....

Check with a test light to make sure the switch is 100%. Make sure there is power first on the large white wire with red stripe and with the headlight switch "on" after the parkers, there should be power at the large red wire. Place the test light on the red wire and make sure that has power when the switch is turned fully.

Gareth, there are two in Moorabbin that I know of, one is off Cochranes Rd in a small factory estate next to Cooks Body Works and another on Levanswell rd opposite Coke but just down a bit further towards the roundabout. Not sure how good they are but might be worth a try if you can't find anyone else.

What if Xavier drives a zed? I'd be in the shiza

Chris, are the twins just at the tip or all the way through? If not you are cheating...

CLEANING BORES When cleaning out honed bores use a shop towel which is typically made of lint-free cotton, don't use paper towels which are really just sheets of compressed wood fibers that can remain in the metal grain. And instead of using WD40 or brake cleaner an old trick is to use ATF (auto transmission fluid). ATF is a 10 weight oil with high-detergent properties with an unusual feature: When used to clean metal parts it seems to pull up residue that nothing else will. On my last rebuild I thought the honed bores were clean, but after running a shop towel with ATF through it came out with gray residue. Mysterious and very cool.

Another welcome and +2 for that front bar removal; would've been great to throw it overboard on the way back! That way it will never find its way back on a zed..

Heheh..yeah I will. I'll let you all know when I'm going to make sure everyone's there. Should I bring some test equipment while I'm at it?

Remove the plugs and check if they are wet with fuel and if they are, leave them out and air out the cylinders. Better if you have a air compressor with a air blower, blow some air in the cylinders to help evaporate the fuel. Then check for spark at the coil. For an engine to run you need spark, fuel and air. Check all the systems.

Benzed has a good collection of carbon parts for the zed. I remember doing a quick add up for all the carbon parts for the zed like doors, hatch and guards etc and it came to about $9500. Considering rust repairs/panel work it might be cheaper to buy the carbon than do the bodywork! The only carbon I have on my zed for now is on the spark plugs!

That would be perfect for a zed sports sedan; mid mounted injected big block anyone?

How drunk did you guys get?

I will be soonish... I'm hoping either late this month or very early June..I have to pickup something from Loui so just trying to get things done here before I head up.

I'll be 37 soon enough..

Rev, I have a front chrome one if you need to borrow for reg.. Don't have a rear one though..

Its known wheels from a 240Z will not fit 260Z; offsets are slightly different and have proved it myself. So if the wheels came off an early 260 there is a chance wheel offsets may be similar to a 240Z. Not sure if hub casting is different or not.

I was waiting for a facepalm pic to show itself...

What year 260Z have you got? I used to lose my headlights over bumps and it was because of a bad connection at the fusible links that have that opaque cover on them in front of the brake master cylinder. Connectors and link wire look fine but were corroded at the spade terminal in the molded link holder. Rain water used to fall through the bonnet vents and pool in the link holders and corrode.

I got given a pair quite a while ago and sold them for about $70 for the 2. Had some surface rust but no damage. Probably too cheap but there were only two.

Hey Fu, Don't worry about a cap, found one that was virtually new in my collection. Installed the dizzy and hey presto, it works fine! Oh, the reason the car died the last time we had it going was it ran out of fuel! Anyways, got the timing set and it starts first click. Found 2 small details with the dash, volt/fuel gauge doesn't light up neither does the high beam indicator. That's no big deal. If you can still find a coil, that would be great. I'll be doing more during the week and on the w/end.

Dave, its all yours if you want it; I thought someone else was after it....go ahead!