gav240z

Hope you're happy, took me a bit of Googling to find this. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-general-discussions/7801-production-number-1969-a.html#post45493 After reading what others have done, I actually sanded mine down a little further than others. However this doesn't seem to have caused any adverse effects and if anything has made the grain patterns and wood texture come through more strongly. So it has more 'patina' so to speak. So far it's looking good, going to hit it with some fine steel wool tonight then apply the second coat, very thinly I might ad. Then the polyurethane spray should make it pop!

Hi guys, Does anyone have a horn button like this that is beyond repair? I'm looking for a stuffed horn pad, or something that is not worth salvaging and would otherwise be thrown out. The reason I want 1 is that I'm going to turn it into a Dog Collar for my pup aptly named 'Datsun'. So I'll probably have to drill a hole in it to hang it from his neck on his collar and I don't want to ruin something that would be otherwise usable so prefer something that is pretty far gone to work with. Alternatively if anyone has any old vintage 'Datsun' key chains or small logos that would otherwise be suitable let me know? I also considered a bonnet badge but I think it might be a bit too big. He's not a hip hop artist after all .

Oh yes the subject was deliberate, chuckle away. But on a serious note can you get this section new still? http://www.jdmjunkies.ch/wordpress/2012-07-26/240z-rear-panel-needed/

So paint appears to have hardened up. Bit of a preview Taped up the spokes. After the first coat of stain. In terms of sanding the wooden rim, I used old sand-paper and went back until all the shiny coating was gone. I noticed that there was some low spots and different textures were coming through as I used different sandpaper to knock down the surface. After reading some of the oher threads on wheel resto I decided I wasn't going to sand it much further. I kinda of like the character that the wood was getting with all it's various imperfections. Rather than 1 solid colour. I then washed the rim down with dish-soap and warm water to remove all the old dust etc.. I hung it up and applied the minwax cherry red stain. I put it on very very light. I used it like you would use tooth paste that is almost empty. Just a bit at a time and spread it as far as I could get it. So far it's looking good, but will need to wait for it to dry (can says 6 hours) and then fine 000 steel wool, then a second stain coat. After it's dry I'll get onto the polyurethane spray and give it 2-3 coats depending on how it's looking. Hopefully it will look the goods!

The Japanese seem to have managed it if you believe this. American dyno's seem to be overly generous in terms of the way they measure HP.

http://www.autoblog.com/2014/01/18/barrett-jackson-2014-1967-chevrolet-corvette-l88-sells-3-million/ Just for comparison this is an L88 Corvette, went for nearly 4M I guess this is the Corvette equivalent of the PZR (432-R) Fairlady Z - in terms of numbers produced and rarity.

I think your horn pad is the later S30z series type, it's a larger overall diameter. You can get the 'Z' ones on Yahoo! Auctions if you want that, otherwise you could source a 'Datsun' 1 I'm sure. As for the center spokes, it would be really fiddly and I quite like the earlier solid spokes . If I had a spare I'd try the polished look. I actually took the steering wheel out of the laundry last night because with the drier on and the cold snap there was a lot of condensation building up. So I put it inside the house and this morning the paint seemed a lot more set than it did previously. I also have hung it up under a sheltered area in the garden today so hopefully when I get home it will be dried nice and firm. Can't wait to see how it looks after the stain + polyurethane clear coat.

By the way I found that the OEM horn button has Chrome Trim on it, but I'm not entirely convinced that was how they came in 1970. And Aforementioned S13 Dash in S30z with original wheel. Found here: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/24211-deep-dish-240z-polished-steering-wheel/

I'm not finished with my wheel yet, but I figure I should get these notes down before I forget. So let's start with some before photos. Horn Button Step 1. - Stripping the paint off. I used various grits of sand paper, a dremel and a drill with a wire brush to get all the fiddly bits. Be careful with the wire wheel as it can be quite aggressive and any scratches it leaves on the metal surface will be visible through the paint, so you may need to use finer and finer grits of sandpaper to remove these scratches from the surface. (As if you were polishing the metal). Thankfully I only had this issue where the horn button sits so it won't be visible when the horn button is back on. I stripped all the paint off. It was at this point I contemplates 2 thing, 1, what the hell am I doing with my life sitting here sanding a wheel, 2 it would actually look quite good as a polished metal wheel also. But the only photo I found where someone had done it also showed an S13 dash in an S30z (Like seriously? Who does that?). Step 2 - Mask her up. I used painters tape I got at bunnings, good stuff as it's not too sticky. Products I'm using, although I'm not sure I'd recommend them. Will comment on this shortly. My paint booth. A.k.a the laundry Step 3 - The Horn Button. Initially I tried to mask up the ring with blu-tac and the 'DATSUN' logo with tape. I then hit it with black vinyl paint (same as I used on the center console). http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,4300.msg151150.html#msg151150 The problem was you could see some ghosting (where the tape covered the surface). Also the surface of the button had bubbles and imperfections, at first I didn't want to sand it because it would leave scratches in the surface. Which would show up through the paint. But while working on the steering wheel (which I'll get to a in minute) I disocvered that using really fine steel wool was good at knocking down surface imperfections but it wouldn't leave scratches behind. It would leave a nice clean surface. Make sure you get super fine steel wool like this. So I used steel wool to improve the surface of the horn button/button thing. Then I slapped it with some more vinyl paint - this time I didn't bother covering the logo. Once dry I used a silver sharpie (I got at Office Works). Then I re-traced the circle and Datsun logo. In my opinion is came up the ducks nuts! Step 4 - Back to the wheel. So I've done 3 coats now of satin black, thing is I'm not sure if it's the weather (very cold lately) or just the paint takes ages to cure, but I started Sunday night, with the first coat, Monday I did coat #2 - which left the surface looking less than flat. Tonight I used a heat gun to try and help it cure, then I used that light steel wool to knock down the surface. I've since done another light coat and it looks really good. I just hope it cures, given the sub 15 degree weather I've got it sitting in the laundry and I'll have the drier on which will hopefully keep it nice and balmy in there tonight. It looks good otherwise... and how it currently looks... Once it's dried and cured *fingers crossed* I'll try tape up the spokes and start on the wood rim.

Probably some dodgy connection in the stalk itself, perhaps pull it apart and apply contact cleaner.

I'm guessing 57 Million. It is an investment after all. Why bother with art you hang on the wall, when you can own art that snarls and barks and makes the hair on your neck stand on edge? For those who haven't read it. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/classiccars/3398352/Chris-Evans-Why-the-Ferrari-250-GTO-is-the-best-possible-investment.html

Possibly the most beautiful shape ever. After the S30Z of course . Will be interesting to see what it fetches.

Sadly looks like he passed away last year. http://www.rallysportmag.com.au/home/arc/8387-2014-australian-rallying-hall-of-fame-inductees

These seem to be popular! http://www.buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/r116270873 48 mm Solex carbs.

Nissan 240z Eats Porsche To Breakfast (Gotta Love Engrish).

I'll be going again most likely. It starts in a few weeks (Around 20th of July) I'm told I'll be emailed. They also have a sandblasting cabinet and paint booth at the Tafe so you could spend time fixing up your dodgy sugar scoop. I highly recommend it, if you've always wanted to learn new skills and wanted to be confident with doing body work. I really enjoy it, although I have my moments where I question my sanity.

That spray gun for the can, where did you get that? Masters also? Also why did you have a bucket for a stand? Do you have to keep the can vertical when spraying the Polyurethane stuff? The black satin black paint on mine is still drying at the moment, with this cold weather it's taking a while to set fully I think. I'll probably knock it down lightly with steel wool and then hit it with another coat. So far so good, no runs etc.. I'll post up photos of exactly what I did when I finish. Oh and by the way - I made this topic a sticky post also for future reference.

^^ Still not as bad as HS30 00019 hehe. Sorry George. I don't know why, but I kinda like the look of that 2+2 without the front fenders and rear hatch window from that angle. Would make a great rat rod! It also looks like the Fiat is winning the 'rust race'.

Looks superb well done. I worked on mine tonight it's drying now after I hit it with satin black. I'll be happy to get the finish you did on the wood rim. It is a rather time consuming job, but the results look worth it.

I'm not sure on later zeds but also check the fusible links. They can burn out.

That stuff on the floor is sound-deadening, you wouldn't know how bad the rust is (if anything) unless you removed it. It looks pretty minor if you can see under the car - you should be able to check how solid the floor pan is. As for prevention, if the car is garaged I wouldn't worry. If you want to be really thorough you could remove the sound deadener and rust proof floors. As for fancy leads, it is up to you. You probably won't notice any difference in performance. NGK leads are the best if you can get them, they also fit on the little tabs on the valve cover properly (Top Gun leads don't fit the plugs as snugly and are a bit fat for the spark plug holders on the valve cover). You could look at the ones Eiji from Datsun Spirit has that routes them around the front of the cover. http://datsunspirit.com/?wpsc-product=dsi-spark-plug-wires If you're looking to 'dress it up'.

If you meet him take plenty of photos of the car.

Craig at Iron Lady Imports can import cars from the US so I'd imagine he would be able to help with export also.

I have to laugh a little, you've bought a Fairlady S30Z which would have come with fender mirrors, some owner in Japan has stuck door mirrors on like export markets. You've now imported it to Australia and will be putting fender mirrors back on. Anyway I'm not 100% sure but I think these are Fairlady Z (S31) Fender mirrors. Which would be correct for your year Z. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Mustang-Chev-Mopar-Dodge-Chrome-Metal-Door-Mirrors-Pair-New-Old-Stock-/201114208283 I just got an email from the seller though and he seems to think they are too short and large to be for a Z. I personally like the long black stalk version of the fender mirrors more myself.

Yeah it appears that even genuine Nissan ones had variances in the years anyway. For example here is a few threads showing images of the gear knobs and differences. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/36981-any-body-have-original-5-speed-shifter-knob.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/interior-s30/22039-restoring-origional-shift-knob.html Thanks mate, I went to Bunnings but they had different stuff. I'll have to find a local Masters.