gav240z

*Edit silly me, just noticed the 1/4 Z badges also, so yes must have come that way Very interesting, reading the US based sites it's always the first #500 that get talked about having the vents, but I think our market was different and I suspect like you say it might be cars under ~HS30 00300 that received the vents. Hence the curiosity and question. Funny it has the hot wire wheels (like my gold car) and the same rear view mirror - which is very Ford Falconish... Looks like it's been left alone and not too tampered with, just the way I like them. Rear lights look like they are in good condition too which is a bonus as NOS Koito stamped early S30z rear lights are often asking ~$2000 AU alone! Good luck with the sale, not that you'll need it I'm sure someone wants an early 240z. It's a great original colour also.

Cuong - do you think the rear hatch on 575 is the original fitted to the car from factory? Just asking because although your car has the choke and throttle knob console it would appear it's lacking the vents in the rear hatch. It looks like it was complied in April 1971. HS30 00150 was complied on Nov 1970, so in that small amount of time it looks like the vents in the hatch were possibly deleted?

Datsun Fairlady Roadster for sale. http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/merriwa/cars-vans-utes/datsun-fair-lady-/1060659179 $5,000.00 Owner description. Green 1965 Manual

What are the symptoms of flogged our hinges? I'm working on the alignment of my door and I wonder if this has anything to do with it.

The Christmas bargains are here, it's the best time of the year to find a classic car project as people want cash! Early 240z in original colour in WA http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/ardross/cars-vans-utes/1971-datsun-240z-coupe-chassis-575/1063918754 Asking $5,500 Apparently it runs and is complete, no sunroof! Get in quick I'd say.

Yeah it's pretty amazing, I have the calendar clock with him also. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,15147.0.html He told me it actually works when he plugged it in, both of us were surprised but that's good news as it means internally it's probably in good shape, just externally it's in need of love.

Also how bright are they compared to the stock globes?

Not sure if he's serious? This is what a 260z knob looks like.

So before I left Melbourne I managed to do a couple of other tasks on the 240z. I decided to fire up the old girl just to have her running again. So in went the battery (I don't leave it in the car) and after getting the mechanical fuel pump to suck of the fuel it finally spurted to life. It took a while to start because I need to mount the choke to a custom plate (instead of the stock attach to the console) so I don't end up with a cracked console in future. So the choke was hard to pull out completely. Even though I replaced all the fuel lines last time I worked on it, I noticed a fuel leak again. I think the problem is that the fuel hoses are slightly too large diameter (if anyone knows what size they should be comment below please). The jubilee clips holding the hose onto the fuel rail is not the best. So after I shut off the car I decided to replace with the OEM style clamps I raided from my spare motor that's been sitting in the garage for years. I much prefer these to the Jubilee clips and you can still source them. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Nissan-Datsun-240Z-Roadster-620-1200-Fuel-Hose-Clamps-/161498911835 But they are quite expensive... If you have a source for finding these at a good rate? Let me know. Fitting those seems to have provided a better seal on the fuel lines and stopped any leak. The next job was to change the bulb in the amp / fuel meter. Many years ago I fitted the wrong bulb (too big) and burnt out the green plastic cover that gives it that colour. Hence my question here: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,15194.msg161402/topicseen.html#msg161402 - although I had some spares for this job I couldn't get anymore at my local service station. Getting to the amp gauge is a bitch of a job in a 240z, mainly because you have to disconnect the battery, remove the console, undo the fuse box, remove the heater facia and map light (without breaking it) and then you can unscrew the bolt that holds the gauge in place. Here is the back of the amp / fuel gauge. You can see what wires go where. Also on the right hand side you'll note that the green plastic piece is missing (it fell into the gauge housing itself after it was over-heated thanks to the too large bulb). I had a spare amp / fuel gauge in storage so I swapped over the housing on it (since the original lens and bezel were in better condition on the original) and put the new lens in and now all gauges light up green (instead of 1 white and the rest green which really messed with my OCD). The final job was to fix the heater / demister vent switches, since 2 of them would go between all 3 settings but the 3rd would not move beyond half-way. Upon close inspection I noticed that the cable was not properly fastened down (or griping the sleeve). If you think of a bicycle cable you'll understand. Anyway it would just so happen that the screw holding it in has fused in place and trying to do undo it just damaged to the screw head). I didn't have vice grips handy so it will have to wait until next time. I think I'll sort that out and install 1 of the Rally Clocks at the same time. So the interior is slowly coming along and the car is starting to feel like it should again. When time / money permits I think it will be seats, a new heater facia panel with stickers for defrost settings, an OEM 72 model radio with antenna switch and new 1/4 plastics. Ahhh it never ends

Ok so now that I had traced out the pattern on a flat piece of sheet metal using a scribe. I had to then join all the lines I made with the scribe using a straight edge for the lines that were straight and for the lines that had a curve I had to use best guess free-hand to join each reference point. Using a roller we gave the piece some shape to mirror that of the rear hatch. As you can see it's a bit large, so the next step was to trim the excess length off the sheet metal - closer to where the scribe lines were. Next was to start the fold for the lower half of the hatch (which isn't quite 90 degree's it's like 70 odd degrees). To start with I used pliers to fold this piece up. You can see the 70 degree bend more clearly here. The next challenge is that the hatch has both a curve east / west, but it also curves north south in both directions. So we used a shrinker on the newly folded lip to pull the edges inward and create the curve east / west. A hammer and dolly was used to help dress up the hatch edge and give it a nicer more defined and sharp edge. The hatch has a bevelled edge and isn't completely straight though. Next I trimmed the upper edge where the spot welds are - after checking how the piece was lining up now that we've done some work to it. Apparently my markings were looking good. The next step will be to fold down that top edge and give it a slight curve where the spot welds go. Once we are satisfied the shape of the replacement piece is looking good we will clamp it down and double-check how the hatch vent markings overlay and make adjustments if necessary. When you re-work a piece of steel like this it can cause things like this to be out of alignment - even if your markings are good. And that was about it... last class for 2014. Will have to pick up again in Feb 2015.

Hi guys, Does anyone know where I can find the correct size light bulbs for S30z dashboard gauges? Or better yet an alternative LED that will plug right in and perhaps provide slightly better illumination than stock? I found these in the US. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08a01c/45-4327 and a full set. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08a01c/45-4328 But is there anywhere local in Australia I could order from? Or any suitable LED type replacement?

Not sure how I missed this car, but it sold in 2011 for for £56,500 (AU$ 104,798) inc. premium http://www.bonhams.com/auctions/19286/lot/428/ Not a bad price, of course the car does have interesting history.

So I was gonna wait... but then I decided I couldn't so I had to share these photos.

I assume these are the door handle escutcheons? http://jdm-car-parts.com/products/door-escutcheon-cover-set-r-l-datsun-240z-260z-280z If so I'm interested pending price? FWIW, none of my S30z's have ever had this luxury item LOL. It's like the first thing that goes missing.

OMG that interior shot, looks like it was actually running in that state? Can't help but think it would have made an awesome rat rod.

Rust only forms with oxygen and moisture, or as Dr Google would say... Generally exposed bare metal is what causes rust to start, given that the frames will be in the car and putting items on the car may scratch the seat frames etc.. the best thing to do is use a paint that has a harder surface and won't easily scratch or come off. Powder Coating is meant to be a harder form of finish and therefore is probably the best option for durability. However it all depends on how you treat the car and what you do with it. I painted my steering wheel with rattle can paint from Bunnings. It only had minor surface rust anyway - since it sits in the car it's less likely to be exposed to water and it only started to rust where the paint had chipped off.

I'll send a PM.

Thanks mate, but I got this at the BBQ on Saturday. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,13624.msg161255.html#msg161255 I just need to find an antenna switch now (couple on eBay) and faceplate -hoping for a reproduction to be made soon if not it's 3D printer time. Now looking for a 72 style radio. With the left right antenna switch.

We were talking about trying to get interstate visitors down next year. Perhaps a few of us from Sydney / Canberra could drive down? Try and get the boys in Adelaide to drive over also. It's the biggest S30z event of the year.

Looks like previous reg no. is a big bonus. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,14462.0.html Perhaps we could make that thread a sticky, or a similar thread detailing the process if you do purchase? Seems with many cars that are parted out or a rolling shell that is stripped down this is important to know.

My 72 240z doesn't have 1, I just checked. Weird huh?

The plates might help a lot, since you could probably get them to do a search on the old plate no. I'll see if I can dig up that thread.

Minor update, got an original Hitachi Radio from Dimitri today at the BBQ. Hitachi Car Radio Model TM-1081ZB(S) Original wiring and loom. Free bag of drugs (no just a spare fuse). I'll need to find the antenna switch and a face plate - hopefully someone reproduces them soon.

Since I was in Melbourne for the annual Christmas BBQ at Gordo's I decided to finish off the diamond vinyl install I started last time I was in Melbourne. You can see that the previous owner had these plain vinyl covers fitted at some point. In order to install the vinyl correctly you need to remove the interior plastics etc.. This was the first time I've ever removed them on this 240z and I'm always wondering if I'll find a nasty surprise. In particular the passenger rear 1/4 was replaced at some point in the vehicles life, the P.O told me about this when I bought it, but I never really knew why it was necessary. I thought maybe it had a love tap or something? But after looking behind the panels there is no evidence of previous crash damage etc.. so I can only assume it was done to remove a rusty wheel arch when the car was restored in the 90s. The only issue with the replacement panel is that it was off an early car with the vents in the hatch, so this 1/4 panel has no hole behind the Z badge. Some day I'll correct it and make it 1972 spec, but not now. As you can see it was likely 918 orange or 905 red the donor car the 1/4 panel came from. I'm pleased however to report no major areas of concern. It looks like the antenna is not original so now less upset about it being bent! Bit of surface rust around 1/4 window. Here are some photos of the interior now. I also removed the Clarion speakers that were in the 1/4 plastic panels. The sea of vinyl. The vinyl kit I got second hand from Japan and Yahoo! Auctions a few months back, in very good condition - apart from 1 or 2 minor tears in it which I repaired and isn't that obvious and the stitching on 1 of the strut towers came undone a bit. So my mum helped to stitch it back up as good as new. I probably should have hit the kit with black vinyl paint, but it has an aged look now that sorta suits the rest of the interior.

Yeah tell me about it, I wanted to see your S30z again and take photos of it this time! I missed a few zeds actually as people slinked off before I got a chance to take photos and I didn't get to meet a few people either. Next time I promise to have my red 72 240z there.