gav240z

Neither, I'd almost be tempted to go just for a VIC / NSW meet. Sadly the Hume Hwy is a pretty ordinary drive, done it several times now.

That orange 260z 2 seater looks immaculately restored. Love the engine bay - fact it still has the boat anchors and the braided radiator hoses etc..

I think you can still source various connectors etc.. For vintage cars. I looked at JayCar and they had some standard plug types like the white ones you see in various areas of the s30z, the only tricky ones I think would be the tail light loom globe holders etc.. But I'm sure with a bit of research you could find these.. What I'm saying is that I think a lot of these connectors were standard in the day not special to the s30 only.

I thought about that also, the loom on HS30 00150 is pretty original from what I've seen so far, so would make for a good template for a 1970 model S30z AU market.

I watched Transcendence last night, I didn't finish watching it, average at best.

Looking forward to it George.

Hey mate, pretty sure that is standard piece. I can take a photo of mine to compare but I haven't undone the spot welds about yet. Pretty sure heater intake looks like that though.

So you bought this 1? http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2630.msg165978.html#msg165978 I guess Triptych shouldn't be too disappointed he missed out on it LOL... Hope you got the stomach for the resto on this 1. Not that most S30z's are much better mind you at this point.

Yeah I guess wine red is the wrong way to describe it. Although in person it almost has a red hint in the hue. There is a later s31 colour that is a burgundy red, first 240z I went for a spin in had been repainted that later colour and I always confuse it with this colour and confuse it for an original colour. It is similar at least in photos to the GP maroon on the 240zg which is different to this bronze / Brown shade. Although I think the 260z in this thread is more metallic than the earlier 240z shade of brown.

Fixed that for you, factory never fitted sunroof's it was all dealers or aftermarket. A lot of variance in quality and look/style of them also. This appears to be 1 of the better ones I've seen over the years. The 1 fitted on my Gold 240z is like a giant pimple on the roof, it stands out like dogs bollocks, I hate it. Nope, just a commonly fitted aftermarket wheel for the period. I think they might be hotwires? Not really sure. I'll have a close look 1 day. They were also fitted to this 'wine' red 240z I inspected a while back for someone who was looking to bid on it at auction. I actually don't mind them when they are cleaned up, but they are not my favorite wheels for an S30z.

Well done, looks like a well kept example and certainly neat looking. I have those same wheels on my Safari Gold 240z I'm restoring, your wheels are in better shape and have the center cap stickers. I recall seeing this car on Gumtree a little while back, the sunroof looks hardly noticeable which is a good thing. The only negative must be the slush box? Or perhaps it's not so bad? What are your plans for it?

20K is a drop in the ocean compared to what it would cost to bring a lot of the regular rust bucket 2+2's up to this condition. So for someone looking for a tidy 2+2 it's a bargain in my opinion plus you can jump in and enjoy it. Not spend hours fixing it up.

Scarab conversion. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-Scarab-Conversion-/231521383036 5 days to go. Current price: US $8,850.00 reserve not met. The wheels look very similar to the Kobe Seiko wheels but they are not quite the same.

Early 240z in US (1971) with relatively complete interior and Safari Gold colour. (HLS3 017336) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-No-missing-trim-/261828628491 She's had a hard life alright. Currently at 3,300 USD with about 1 day 12 hours to go.

260z 2+2 in good shape. http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Datsun-260Z-1975/SSE-AD-3269743/?Cr=22 Asking ~20k

Why bother with the slow original engine? Just put a 2JZ or 20B in it no? Otherwise they might get beaten at the track by a spirited corolla no?

Snowpiercer - Not a movie I'd recommend to be honest, it had a couple of almost brilliant moments but overall I felt it was quite average. Reviews online seem to be positive, but I'd give it 5/10. Prisoners with Hugh Jackman, not bad for a child has been kidnapped kind of movie. Jackman's character is a little dark, which is not a role I'm used to seeing him in. I'd say 7/10.

Will swap Rally Clock for set of PZR seats. http://page7.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/g150521559 On a more serious note, would consider swap for Calendar Clock + cash my way.

Welcome Ron, great to have you on board and as 1 of the members who has outsourced work to you I'm very happy with your level of service and willingness to share information about these unique items.

Need any Z-parts in exchange? I like these wheels just really shouldn't be spending money on any at this point. I was kinda hoping someone would have bought them already to avoid any temptation haha.

If you back track this thread I'm sure I listed it here, will look later if I have time. It is odd that it mentioned HLS30 for chassis prefix, it certainly looks RHD to me and I'd be surprised if it wasn't a HS30 car or S30 prefixed car for that matter. The amp gauge has been changed to a later volt meter, it has the early looking console. So it looks to be a 71. It's difficult to value this car, so much has been changed, it would be a big job to go back to original, thankfully it's not got a sunroof about the only faux pas it hasn't done to upset a purist. I can't decide if I hate the seats or the rear light treatment more, I think it's the rear light grille slat thing that irks me most. I'd say it's worth about $7k at most, with a view to selling the wheels, seats, engine and removing the flares, but judging by the surface rust on the 1/4 window I'd say you're gonna find a lot of bog in that rocket and if it lived in Tasmania probably has high moisture content in the air which has caused it to rot inside out, it's just not coming through the paint yet. A brave man *edit / or woman /* would tackle this resto....

April Fools no doubt.

I'm a simple pleb with simple needs, all I want in my AU delivered 240z is working hazard functions. Yes I know there is a thread on here.. But why wasn't this a requirement in 1970 I don't know?

What's been going on? Well you can see I replicated the brace for the rear of the hatch lock. To get the cut outs correct I used a 'square' file. I also used a circular drill piece (sorry forgot the name *edit - it's called a hole saw*) that was about the right diammeter to cut out the circular nicely, which is easier than using tin snips. After sandblasting the bottom of the hatch and finding rust holes etc.. it was time to crack out the oxy welder and patch it up. here's the tricky part though, once you start to sand down these welds you discover a few pin-holes. The thing I did that wasn't so good was use the linisher to try and tidy it up. This was a bit too aggressive and it can thin the metal out a bit too much which means when you go to weld up these patches you blow holes and have to patch it up again etc.. In some ways it seems like it would be easier to just replace the hole section but it's at a good place now. Talking about my mistakes, you'll recall I used a flap disc to strip the hatch when I found loads of bog, well you can actually do some panel damage when using an aggressive method like that to strip a panel. Here is an example, we filed the top edge of the hatch (since the bottom is being replaced anyway). You can see the low spots are all those dots where the file hasn't touched it. Enter this machine.. The Easy Beat.. What you do is point the end of the tip onto the low spot on the metal and it creates a very mild tach like weld. Then you use the slide hammer portion to pull the low spot up, it's a very weak weld so twisting the gun causes the weld to come unstuck and leaves a little pimple in the metal. Using a body file you then go over the area which will knock it down and level with the surrounding metal. After a couple of hours of playing with it, you can see improvements. Still a few low spots but running your hand over them you'll see they are not that bad. In the end it looked like this. So now I'll still require a small amount of filler but it should be very light and give a good finish, bottom line is don't use aggressive methods to strip paint or if you do keep it as flat as possible don't approach at an angle like I did. Lesson learnt...in fairness a ham-fisted blaster could do the same thing. This tool is very useful for pulling out dents when you don't have access to the other side of the panel easily, so think of the bonnet I pulled apart here: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=14677.0

I figure this was probably the most relevant place to put this, here is a photo of the internals of an oscillator box (you can see the tuning fork) and all components used in it. The tuning fork is quite unique apparently where as the rest of the box is relatively standard 1970s electronic components.