gav240z

I don't have any kids myself yet, but this breaks my heart. Hope she gets better soon.

George took a bunch of photos of his fasteners and S30Z bits before he sent them to a plater for reference. He was going to send me the photos so I could make them public / available for reference by all. I may do the same also anyway with mine, turns out when getting the bolts plated they can't keep them all organised, they just dunk them all into the tank at the same time. If you're familiar with S30Z's you'll probably recognise where a lot go, which is a good start. The rest you can probably refer to parts manuals etc..some can still be ordered new... I've seen some people selling parts lots of S30Z bolts for about $50 on eBay etc.. I was thinking of just buying a job lot of bolts like that and getting them re-plated and using my original ones as a reference to sort them once returned. That might be doing thing ass forwards first though..

I'll fix that... If you think it will only take 2 years, it's probably going to take 4.

Too many twinkies?

A couple of 2+2s Will try and add more details shortly. http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/beerwah/cars-vans-utes/1977-datsun-260z-coupe/1117059726 http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/scarborough/cars-vans-utes/76-datsun-260z/1117122203

That looks like a good buy for the asking price and relatively original shape. If anyone gets in contact with the seller please ask for the VIN no. if possible and check if it still has the original L24.

PM sent.

Probably going to have to cut it out of another parts car yourself I'd imagine. Not the kind of part that most have laying around.

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/15086-set-of-260z-front-fender-badges/

I'm aware of 3 versions. 1. Early 240z E88 head (similar chamber to E31) 2. Mid 260z E88 open chamber head. 3. Late MR30 Skyline E88 EFI head with same chamber shape as P90 / 05L heads and cut out's for F.I.

I'd grab them off you for practice if I was in Melbourne at the moment. Any idea what sort of money you want for it? There is pieces that I can see being useful even on a 240z.

I haven't bought it yet, I was going to find a broken tail lamp first then order it. It looks like you can order from the website. http://notaglue.com/collections/bondic-products/products/bondic-starter-kit-complete If nobody has 1 local I may see if I can get a North American tail lamp assembly since they are dirt cheap and I want to see if it's possible to cut them in half to salvage the brake lamp part of the assembly and glue it back together...

Moving on already? http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C755524

I can only try, what's it look like now?

Hey Folks, Just wondering if anyone has a stuffed 240z/260z tail light (beyond repair) that I could have for postage cost etc..? If you look at the top left hand corner of my right side tail light you can see a hairline crack. I was looking at this video and repair material. I think if I use a dremel to create a v-shape out of the crack - I could then fill it with this plastic weld material called Bondic. http://notaglue.com/ Obviously I don't want to experiment on a relatively good otherwise lens. So would like to first experiment on something beyond economical repair to see how it turns out. For some reason I seem to have several good left hand tail lamps, but my RH side ones have some kind of imperfection. Cheers,

Look at Lord Fusor anti-flutter foam. I bought some a while ago, but didn't get around to using it, so it probably went off... Sadly it has a short shelf life so I found that you had to order it in, not something that is kept on shelves. http://www.lord.com/products-and-solutions/adhesives/fusor-121124-flexible-foam-(super-fast)

http://www.drive.com.au/motor-news/inside-australias-biggest-private-car-collection-20160530-gp7ot5 Has some video of the warehouse.

So much Jazz Flute I was expecting to see Austin Powers jump in and say Groovy Baby.

It says 240z, but the dashboard is a 74+ model S30z dashboard. It could have been retrofitted to an earlier car but it could also be a Fairlady Z. I tried to look up the South Australian registration to see if I could get the chassis ID but couldn't get it. So not sure what it is. I thought it might have been this car. But don't think so looking at it now. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/14287-new-z-for-perth/?p=170105

I asked my friend in SFO to look out for a few, he said he's seen a few but never bothers to buy them. I asked him to look out for ones in good shape next time. The pins issue seems to be a common problems for all S30Z badges I'm afraid. So might need to get creative in terms of repair work. You could get the '280Z' ones that look the same but obviously have the 8 instead of a 6. Depends how much that would bother you I guess. The real problem is that the 260z was a transitional model for North America so spares for them are thin on the ground. Unlike 240z or 280z's where spares are a plenty...

That's quite a claim, are you sure? If that's the case it should be pretty easy to spot the 'fakes' since we can often compare engine no.s with US cars built around the same time frame and see if the number range matches. If that were the case wouldn't he list all his cars as no's matching? http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/burwood/cars-vans-utes/clean-original-1973-datsun-240z-sports-coupe-2-seater-5-speed/1114530179 It seems he's pretty clear that it has an L26. He also could have sold HS30 00150 as a numbers matching car (a family friend owned it and he sold it on their behalf a few years ago before I got it), but did not. Although personally I think the whole numbers matching thing is a bit overblown... but to each their own.

Very hard to find I'm afraid. I'll ask around.

Yes I believe he's retiring and closing down the business..

PM sent. To clarify we didn't swap this for D-caps instead he helps me source them and I paid for them . But yeah a small price to pay for help getting parts in the US.

The tafe teacher said we could use filler or lead join it. I originally thought I'd use bondo / plastic filler but I might do lead now that I've thought about it a bit more. It's a little bit low/high around the join now and as you probably know you can only file it down so much before you thin the metal out too much.. I've done lead filling / wiping before on the 240z door. Here is the post. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/3202-tutorial-door-skin-removal-for-dummies/?p=147048 There is a video I took the audio might not be great as it's on my mobile phone. Eastwood's do a 'body solder kit' which is lead free. (excuse the 80s guitar riffs). I might look at something like that, given the work you've done on your car so far I'd say you should be fine using the solder if you follow the instructions. It's not that difficult.