gav240z

Early S31 2/2 https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/seville-grove/cars-vans-utes/1976-nissan-fairlady-z-2-2/1170556588 #318

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/port-sorell/cars-vans-utes/datsun-skyline-240k-c110-coupe-1973-gl-suit-gtr-replica/1175488753 240K Coupe for sale.. $23,000

Bump!

The way I see it that's just 1 facet. The amount of time involved with listing items on say eBay etc.. it's a full time job. To package items, run to post office etc.. it all takes time and time is money. Then you need space to put all that stuff, renting warehouses in Sydney is far too expensive. You'd need to go to somewhere like Goulburn and rent a cheap space there. Or somewhere like it, or already own said space.

The OEM wings have fasteners on the underside. https://photos.app.goo.gl/xyNjR4OJgz1XHCaw1

Kevin San's C10 Skyline with L28 etc..

I believe Warren was floating the idea of selling up a while back.. certain numbers were thrown around. I was briefly thinking about it.

Yes Warren is fine if you buy via eBay (so far no issues for me) but I think Peter's post above helps give some context as to why he can be hard to get proper commitment from. I've heard many complain about the same. The real problem as I see it is that a lot of blokes who have been in this game (S30Z repairs and parts supply) have often been doing it for 30+ years and they have been ground down by low ballers and cheap skate Datsun owners over many years. This means their businesses have often lost money over many years. Things are changing as these cars increase in value again and people are willing to spend the money, but given how few cars remain here now it's difficult to feed the family on profits from Z-supplies. For example just to package up a bunch of gear knob buttons - receive payment, go to post office etc.. really if this was a full time gig for me (supplying S30Z stuff) I'd need to charge a lot more than $10 a button. And those buttons are often more profitable to sell than larger items etc..! I feel there has to be a market here for a local supplier of S30Z parts, but you have to use a lot of capital up front to purchase parts, have somewhere to store them and then worry about currency fluctuations destroying your profit margin on an item. Often folks think they can beat your price, but don't factor in cost of shipping etc.. So bottom line is, folks like Warren is all we have and if you're in a rush perhaps look elsewhere, but I can almost sympathise with why he is the way he is. The only reason someone would get into supplying S30Z parts is because they are passionate about these cars, not money!

When my FD was stolen and damaged in Ireland, I sourced new panels and pretty much reassembled the car on my own. I was lucky in that I managed to find a silver door and front wing (so the inner door didn't need painting etc..). I bought a brand new front bumper from Mazda (was in that nice primer) and basically the car was stripped (trims taken off etc..) windscreens out (new rubbers) etc.. but the engine bay, interior colours were left alone. It cost me close to 3,500 euro from memory, which was about $5,500 AUD at the time. The country was in the middle of a bad economic recession and so the panel beater was eager for the work and not many people were spending that kind of coin on restoring 90s performance cars at that time (most were trying to sell them for pennies). I recall when I told someone what the paint job costs (young guy) he balked! You can get a paint job for 600 yo yo's he was convinced! I had seen 600 euro paint jobs I told him and I didn't want 1 of those.. 8 years on the paint on my car still looks great! It is not quite factory quality due to the curvature of an FD body shell. But I am particularly fussy and it still looks great to me and I'd say 98% of people would see no issues with it. The point is my paint job was not entirely extensive and most panels were already true and straight - very little filler was needed. But painting an entire car properly is time consuming and not something you want done by someone who can't be bothered doing a good job. Photos of my car and it's restoration process are in here. https://goo.gl/photos/YBvCd3WwwGoFaxhx7

No I'm just saying rust repair. Paint is more. Your car in fairness is a high level restoration. I don't see many that good.

I decided to re-chrome my OEM bumper from my 72 240z, cost of re-chrome alone was $550 (good price I thought w/overriders being done too), then the rubbers add up. I think you can do it for $1000 each end or so (if you have good bumpers to start with). So yes, $2000-$3000 depends on what you start with etc.. sounds about right. Hence why I decided NOT to use this bumper on my 72 (as the rest of the car has it's fair share of patina), and instead this bumper will go on HS30 00150.

How long is a piece of string? Most who have done it correctly and spent the money getting a professional to do it are probably not willing to tell you.. It would be easy to sink $40k into the body work of a rusty S30Z. It all depends on how bad the body is to begin with. A car with only minor rust wouldn't cost much to repair. A rust bucket could easily cost many multiples of a good car. I am buying up as many NOS panels as possible for HS30 00051 simply because the initial outlay will be higher - up front purchase cost of panels, but it is likely to work out cheaper long term and end in a better finish overall (less filler / distortion) and better panel gaps etc.. It all depends how fussy you are and what standard you want the car to be when done.

I hate to estimate based on photos, but $2k alone will be cost of sandblasting and etch primer after. Then let's presume you don't have anymore rust than what's visible, I'd say another $6-$8k could go into that. But the rust spots on this 1 are not the most common areas and I suspect it might have a lot more hiding once blasted. I would be planning to spend $10k at least on the body. Worth doing, but $4k is optimistic.

Exactly why I was asking because I thought someone might have something along those lines that would be useful.

Yeah but everyone knows someone with a mate who can restore the WA car for $10k no problems!

It irritates me that it's quoted as a 69 model. When it is infact a 71 model and it's a Fairlady Z (not a 240z, it came with an L20A engine not an L24). Shannon's should know better too.

In fairness I think the car is came from is long gone, it was an early car too. But I believe the frame rust is due to being stored in a less than ideal environment. ?

Hi Folks, Since I just responded to Mick's wanted ad for a 240z dashboard I figured I'd ask if anyone has a dashboard frame (only). Here is a rough dashboard I have. The frame is a bit rusty and will need a good sandblast and clean up, 1 or 2 of the top metal brackets will need to be fabricated as they have rusted through to the point of being useless. Rather than busy a nut fixing it, I'm wondering if anyone has a good frame they don't need anymore? Maybe your padding is so far gone that the only good thing left is the frame? In which case I'd love to buy it!

Just remembered the reason I got the rough dashboard is that I wanted to try the DIY restoration method to compare with a re-skin job. Some reports stated that re-skin jobs made fitted gauges difficult and the texture was different. Yes OEM dashboards have a more 'greyish colour' and slightly different texture. Photos for comparison here. Re-skin in my 72 https://photos.app.goo.gl/sXRwZ1u2wM3xrNY52 Rough dashboard texture. https://photos.app.goo.gl/EUBDIdfrasEMMh3o2 For me it's not enough to worry about... but I was interested in how good they were side by side..

PM sent. Found photos of the rough dash.

Going through photos the other day, I noticed my 73 240z's engine had a Nikki pump on it. Which I assume is it's original pump. (Engine no. photo attached).

These were sent out this morning. Please let me know if you receive them and the correct quantity. For some reason I have more left than I thought I should, so I either counted them incorrectly or put the wrong quantity in your parcels.. I am hoping I just counted them wrong to start with..

Mechanical pump sits on other side of the engine near #1 spark plug. There is probably a blanking plate covering where it should sit. Reference photo here.

Couple of SU videos I uploaded to Youtube here.

If I speak to Guy again on the phone I'll ask about it. But like I say I get the impression they want it all gone in 1 go.