gav240z

The 10% duty already applied before this date. Because the items get shipped in a container with other stuff the total is always over $1000 AUD anyway, so all items always attracted the 10% tax. But yes, quarantine is a bit of a gamble and will depend on items and how dirty / clean they are along with what they are and how they are packaged (wooden crate?) This is why I think anyone requesting stuff should focus on what is impossible to find here (or close to it) because it will almost always be cheaper to buy locally if an option exists.

Ask here? https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/campbelltown/auto-body-parts/datsun-240z-seat-parts/1185839104

Hey Guys, This question probably got lost in amongst the other stuff going on in this thread. Q. Is the profile of the lower half of a 2+2 1/4 panel the same as a 2 seater in the fuel filler area? 260z 2+2 I am guessing they are the same profile, but not 100% sure? Here is the area on my 240z I'm wanting to repair. I could probably fabricate it, but an off cut will be much easier.

Ok guys, Let's try and wrap this up over the next few days. I am going to go back to Crow with this laundry list and he will then inform me if he can match the order. There might be a little wiggle room for last call on parts between then and now. If the prices are not to your expectation (factoring in more charges when they arrive) then we can cancel your request. I DO NOT KNOW IF WE WILL BOTHER TO DO THIS AGAIN SO IF YOU ARE HOLDING OUT THINKING YOU'LL CATCH THE NEXT ROUND. MY ADVICE IS DON'T!

I've thought about this a lot actually. The trouble is none of us are co-ordinated in terms of our orders. If we could get a good group of us together who are co-ordinated on part orders and what we need we could do bulk importing via sea freight and it would work out much much cheaper. But it's a bit like herding cats. For now though I'm not going to get into this, I am just trying to keep the order as simple as possible and with minimal points of contact. If that works well will evaluate doing more of this sort of thing and look at other items / vendors. But this is very much a part time gig for me, and comes second to my full time job. Just hoping I don't get burned doing it .

It's a 75 and has the later style lower radiator support. So a 280z support section is what we need (when talking with the yanks!) By the way are you sure you need 1? It looks ok from this photo, has it taken a beating/hit in the past? *Edit never mind I saw the later photos in the thread and see it's taken some kind of hit / impact and you've really stripped her down to find all the "hidden" rust. Nice work. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/14150-75-260z-finally-mine/page-2

I'm not easily put off, but this 1 scares me. https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/m257381672

Rally Clock (twin knob) https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b313491609 Someone has modified the wiring loom... I suspect it may not be working. Current price: 78,000 yen

Then don't, just go with 7.5j wheels instead of 8? I like the flared look, but can't help but feel it's a bit over cooked now. For me this is 1 of the most beautiful 240z's out there!

If memory serves correctly the new owner did mention a front-end hit and repair. I have to find the thread though! http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/1924-cars-for-sale-3rd-party-sites-ebay-carsales-etc/?p=165674 http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/1924-cars-for-sale-3rd-party-sites-ebay-carsales-etc/?p=162035 http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/1924-cars-for-sale-3rd-party-sites-ebay-carsales-etc/?p=165788 Sadly not having much luck, but perhaps best to speak to the owner about it.

Agree... You can always store the L24 away and put an L28 in or just change out the crank. If you want more of a period racer look, get some charcoal colour 15x8 Watanabe's on it.

PGC10 Skyline GTR on Jay Leno Garage.

Yeah it's sort of tainted it, unfortunately.

I don't think I will do side orders here, too complicated to organise. I will focus on dealing with Crow for now and importing good second hand panels. If OEM bumpers are important to you, we can do this, but you may find reproduction bumpers with new chrome are a better / cheaper option or a local 2 seater bumper.

Where the heck did you get all those parts from? Are they from the car originally? Given they are all red.. I have been looking for a solid bonnet for ages!

Mach steering wheel, might be useful for S54B owners? https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/q212780055

HS30 00365 https://get.google.com/albumarchive/107400787026175995661/album/AF1QipOvJvjVPG3TO0rUh_gxk3bZsuzqNMYlH4dJ247q?source=pwa I haven't seen it in person, but she was rough before her restoration.

Keep it, it's the plate I wanted for mine. Either that or HS30

Thanks Mick, I didn't check as I was only 1 person and it's hard to crank and check at the same time. I will try next time, although I'm still not sure fuel is getting to the carbs yet. Just ran out of time really. It's amazing how easy it is to burn 4 hours and achieve very little!

Today I checked the fuel pump from #150, turns out it's a Nikki pump.

So today was spent removing the electric fuel pump. Interestingly, the pump itself was warm, but I don't believe it was pushing fuel.. I haven't tested it off the car though to verify, but when I removed it hardly any fuel came out of the lines and it seemed to be on the side of entry not exit from the pump. Whilst an electric pump would be a good idea, I'm not confident it's a good enough pump and more reliable than the mechanical OEM ones. Also the wiring job on it, left a bit to be desired (exposed wiring without rubber caps to protect from rain water / crud under the car etc..). So I'm glad to remove it. I tried to crank the motor with the mechanical fuel pump hooked up and 1 end open in a container (old water bottle), but as I cranked no fuel was coming out... I thought it odd. So I removed the valve cover as I thought maybe they removed the offset lobe on the cam sprocket that drives the mechanical finger on the pump. However when I lifted the valve cover it was still there. So I pushed the pump finger with my hand and fuel came up. The colour of the fuel was very yellow, looked like "piss" to be honest and smelt a bit like varnish. So I'm not sure how old it is, but I am guessing it's not helping much? I also replaced the fuel filter in the engine bay (but the old 1 didn't appear blocked), the spark plugs looked very blackened with carbon etc.. which I thought can't be helping so I replaced those with new ones too. I could not get it to fire up however, despite cranking for many 30 second intervals (max), I am thinking fuel is not making it to the float bowls so i'm going to take a look there next. I may need to bring a can of start ya bastard too, so I can verify it will actually run if it gets fuel into it. That way I know it's not an ignition issue. I guess if it fired up right away it wouldn have been too easy. The 1 unknown here is the alarm system and toggle switch under the dash, I can't help but think it might have been a fuel cut switch? Or ignition kill. So I am not sure if that's a problem also. So current plan of attack. 1. Get can of start ya bastard and spray it down the throat of the SU's, see if it will kick over or even sputter. 2. Replace old fuel hoses (already have new ones) and verify mechanical pump is actually pumping fuel up when driven off cam (I verified pump worked, with hand, but not sure if there would be any reason for it to not work off the cam?) 3. Check ignition system for spark. 4. Check compression (if req.). 5. Drain old fuel, put new fuel in. 6. Verify fuel is making it to the SU fuel bowls. If the above all seems good and it still won't run. Then look at wiring loom. I do have an electronic distributor to replace the points (stock 1 on there), but figure first verify it can run as is before removing and testing with electronic distributor and introducing any other unknowns.

This looks much better than Wheeler Dealers, much better without Mike Brewer.

Yeah I wasn't impressed with panels and their prices. Might be good if you need odds and sodds.

Not many in Australia. There is 1 on CarSales at the moment it's a late model 69 car but they stopped making Corsa's and focused on Monza's. The main difference between the 2 is engine power dashboard cluster and rear beaver / valance section is painted flat grey on Corsa's. Everything can be changed of course! I love the look of this 1. https://photos.app.goo.gl/cxTp228sDrA552or2

Certain cars just get glossed over. It's a blessing and a curse really. Blessing because it means the cars remain cheap and so do parts. So you can often get a good car for a reasonable price. But you may never get money back that you sink into it. I've always liked the first gen Celica too, but I reckon a super clean original example could reach $30k+ at auction. We just never see them for sale at that level. Right now I'm kind of keen on Chevy Corvair's "unsafe at any speed". In particular a 65+ Chevy Corvair Corsa or even the right Monza as a 2 door hard top coupe. Flat 6 air-cooled engine in the rear, super cool looking thing and they are cheap. In part because of a Ralph Nader. The early cars had a swing axle set up which could induce roll over, but was a little over blown really. Later ones did away with that and had independent rear ends. I think they look great and the air cooled motor is super reliable apparently and probably low maintenance too! Of course now that I'm getting into them prices will go up haha. They are a forgotten car I think, perhaps their prices will never go up? Jay Leno says if there is a car waiting to be discovered it's the Corvair (he owns a Yenko stinger).