bluerat Posted June 15, 2011 Posted June 15, 2011 Thats good news, I've had my rims around 18 months or more, maybe they changed it since, or I need a word with my tyre guy... Quote
Agno Posted June 20, 2011 Author Posted June 20, 2011 So I took the car to B&M Fuels in Richmond... and needless to say Tony is a very helpful bloke. He told me today that the carbs need a rebuild including new needles as the carbs are pretty tired. The car now also misses very badly with anything more than half throttle and he suggests a new dizzy cap and rotor. Finally the ignition coil also looks like it might need replacing as the current one has an "unusual pattern". So... Time to rebuild my carbs, get a new dizzy cap & rotor and get a new ignition coil! I'm going to try rebuild the carbs myself as I figure it will be a good character building exercise Can anyone recommend an ignition coil and a place to get rebuild kits + needles for 3 screw Hitachis? I'm hoping that by the time it's all back together there aren't any more gremlins waiting to pop out of nowhere... Quote
benny Posted June 20, 2011 Posted June 20, 2011 im using a bosch coil and got su kits from MSA in the states Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted June 20, 2011 Administrators Posted June 20, 2011 So... Time to rebuild my carbs, get a new dizzy cap & rotor and get a new ignition coil! I'm going to try rebuild the carbs myself as I figure it will be a good character building exercise Can anyone recommend an ignition coil and a place to get rebuild kits + needles for 3 screw Hitachis? I'm hoping that by the time it's all back together there aren't any more gremlins waiting to pop out of nowhere... I've not ordered through MSA or Ztherapy before, but Ztherapy was very helpful and sent me some good videos a while back on how to rebuild SU's. It had lots of good tips. I highly recommend it. No actually I insist you watch it if you are rebuilding your carbs, it's that good. http://www.ztherapy.com/ In terms of ignition, get 1 of those kick ass coils they use on the old Big Merc's. A big Bosch 1 that are filled with oil to keep them cool. Like this: http://www.car-stuff.com/1975mercedesbenz280cignitioncoil.htm - although I'm not sure if that model works with the Z, so double-check. I've seen lots of those small modules, but they are not good at being consistent especially at high rpm over a long period (i.e on the track). Quote
Agno Posted June 30, 2011 Author Posted June 30, 2011 New dizzy cap, rotor and ignition coil to be swapped in this weekend. Hopefully that should go someway to making the car a whole heap more drivable. Also there is a genuine 260Z tool kit as my car doesn't have one. Yaaaaaaaayyyyyy! Quote
Agno Posted June 30, 2011 Author Posted June 30, 2011 Yep. It's in pretty good nick but the shifter needs a batch of WD40 through it or something because it's siezed! Quote
Agno Posted August 14, 2011 Author Posted August 14, 2011 So the Zed had a pretty busy weekend this weekend! Saturday I took it down to charity dyno day where it managed to produce the 2nd lowest power output (85.5rwkw)... But it sure made a good noise and was a welcome change from the fleet of XR6 turbos, V8 commonwhores and skylines Today we went for a fang up through the hills, and it's probably the first time that I have managed to go for a long drive without something breaking since I bought the car lol. I was having my doubts about keeping it because it has been giving me grief... But I'm glad I was patient enough to iron out the niggles and get it working perfect. Over the last few weeks it got a new battery, a new bonnet pull (the old plastic one snapped!), door lock pulls and a slightly better tune than before. The carbs still need a rebuild so I will suss out if the throttle shafts also need to be replaced and then decide what direction I want to go with fuel delivery. *insert dyno reading here* Quote
Agno Posted September 18, 2011 Author Posted September 18, 2011 So I decided to investigate why my wheels rub at full lock.... Turns out it's rubbing the tension rods, not the strut as I had previously thought. I also found the front passenger brake line was being pulled by the tyre when turning left at full lock. This really freaks me out as I imagine it could be very easy to sever a brake line without realising it : Bushes look ok at least! The car also had "an accident" as I like to call it on Saturday. I turned it off and about 4L of fuel gushed out of the breather like I had opened a tap. I tried to make it happen again today but no success. Any ideas? Quote
peter mc Posted September 18, 2011 Posted September 18, 2011 no good mate best cheek the tank breather system sounds like it had a lot of presser in it make shore its not blocked Quote
Agno Posted September 25, 2011 Author Posted September 25, 2011 Test fit the wheels off my other car: I like it. Going to see if I can get a wider pair for the front to fill the guards up a bit more though Quote
chris240 Posted September 25, 2011 Posted September 25, 2011 and here I was complaining I only had 10-12mm clearance ! Alex, whatever wheels are on those pics that are touching the rod....Get rid of them immediately , and go buy a lottery ticket. the other week to check my clearances when i put my new rims on, I lipped my guards , then I did my reversing manouvres on the front yard and the driveway, and then I got under the car 2 or 3 times to double check tolerances, then I drove 200m down the road to the servo to check & adjust tyre pressure, and only then did I go for a full scale drive....the point Im making is, Safety should always come first. Quote
Agno Posted September 25, 2011 Author Posted September 25, 2011 The wheels above have plenty of room to spare and the old ones only rubbed at full lock. Once I take the old castor rods out (got new ones) I'll snap a photo for everyone to see I guess there isn't really much that I can say in response to you Chris but believe me when I say I was just as freaked out as you were... Saying that the brake line made me significantly more nervous Quote
chris240 Posted September 25, 2011 Posted September 25, 2011 What are those rims ? they look nice , very "Simmonsy" in appearance.. Quote
Agno Posted September 25, 2011 Author Posted September 25, 2011 They are Work Equip type 03. These ones are fairly new but they have been in production since the 70s! A bit like Watanabes they are a period correct Japanese made wheel. One question I would like to ask is why do my old Superlites (15x7 +12) rub on the castor rod when I turn hard and some people can run 16x8 +4 Rota RB on the front and not scrub? According to my rough maths the Rotas would sit about 5mm closer to the strut than the Superlites Quote
benny Posted September 25, 2011 Posted September 25, 2011 possibly because with 16's your 1/2 an inch taller in radius and with the strut sloping inwards it clears?? Quote
d3c0y Posted September 28, 2011 Posted September 28, 2011 I'll take a photo of mine on full lock if you like for comparison. Quote
Agno Posted September 28, 2011 Author Posted September 28, 2011 What wheels do you run d3c0y? If what I have read is correct the offset isn't as much of an issue on 240Zs because of the different hub design/different spring perch location plus what Benny said above about bigger rim diameter and the way the strut sloped inward. I will take a photo of my new front wheels and I guess we can compare notes Got caught out in the rain tonight... Bloody hell it was heavy! Looks like I have a teeny tiny windscreen leak (only saw one lonely drop) and the door seals are well and truly screwed. Just more things to add to the ever growing list. Quote
Agno Posted November 5, 2011 Author Posted November 5, 2011 So as I have previously said in this thread my car has a coolant leak in the interior somewhere. After receiving my new heater core and heater control valve I decided I was going to have a crack at fixing it! Hoses looked quite good: ... But the heater control valve didn't Lucky I have my new one! And this is where I got to today: :( So agonisingly close. I assume to change the heater core like I originally planned I have to take the centre section of the dash out? The core is currently hitting the accelerator pedal bracket/kickdown switch (my car used to be an auto it seems). I also found that the linkages that control the heater valve and the air flow actuators are all bent. So if I get the chance I will change them all next time the interior is apart when I POR15 everything. Quote
Riceburner Posted November 5, 2011 Posted November 5, 2011 Hard job for sure, looks like you got it just in time Quote
Agno Posted November 20, 2011 Author Posted November 20, 2011 So last time I updated this thread the heater core didn't fit out of the hole Datsun made for it. To skirt around this rather small and annoying oversight I did this: Yes that's right, I completely removed the interior sans dash. I thought to myself "Hey Alex, you're a sucker for punishment! So why not strip the floors and repaint them while you have everything out?" After nearly 4 straight days of sanding and rubbing it got to the point you see above. The heater core came out in the end as well: Over the next few days the floors will be covered with POR15 (they are already treated that's why they are orangey looking) and unless I find something else to fix like the sucker I am it should be covered by carpets and out of sight... Where nobody will ever see nor care that the floors are rustproofed and the heater works Quote
Stivva Posted November 20, 2011 Posted November 20, 2011 Do you want to come remove my heater core so I can clean it! Quote
Agno Posted November 21, 2011 Author Posted November 21, 2011 Painted! That was a photo of the second coat once it dried. I did one more after that. POR15 is a great product (even if it's a bit expensive) and I highly recommend it. Do you want to come remove my heater core so I can clean it! LOL! Unless its on a hoist and the doors are off... Never again. My back is still recovering from spending so long pretending to be a contortionist Quote
Stivva Posted November 21, 2011 Posted November 21, 2011 I know that feeling, I am still working myself up to do a bit of work under the dash Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.