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V8Datto’s Early 240Z Build


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Hi,

I've never really introduced my self so here we go, Names Adrian and I'm restoring an early 240z

I've decided to start this build thread due to luvemfast starting this thread http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,7244.0.html

Just a note: I'm not a mechanic nor did I have any experience in panel beating or body work prior to buying this car

 

Car was purchased off E-bay

 

Initial plan was get the panel work done and paint, but in a short amount of time I realized it would take lots of $ and time to get that stage. Then a few months later I realized it would take 10X the $’s and years to finish but too late, I was waist deep into the build.

 

So it’s an Early 240z (build no 347) came with some parts but not complete and as you will see….full of rust!

 

Your comments are welcome…

 

Pictures as purchased….

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edited due to my explanation of the purchase sounding so bad when it wasn't

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Looks like a pretty good start.  Love the trailer - Now that's the way to by a big mechano set.

 

Are you able or planning to make her original (concourse) or is she going to be 'modernised' a bit.  Track/Weekend cruising/daily??

 

 

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Love the trailer - Now that's the way to by a big mechano set.

 

Although I did get a trailer full of parts about 80% of them were Not from a 240z, most were from a 260z (including suspension & engine) and some parts were from a 280z, even the fuel tank that was in the car was not standard

 

 

I could ramble on for hours about what I want to do, I'm not 100% decided on a few things yet but at the moment the plan is weekend/track car/Club car, Going for Club reg hoping for the logbook system

 

The body will be as close to standard as possible, the engine at this stage will be Toyota V8 but the idea is to build up an L28 and fit later on down the track, I don't have the original L24 so there's no point going down that road.

The plan some day is full rego

 

Only major body mods will be BRE rear wing & urethane/fiberglass front airdam (with brake cooling ducts)

Others mods include: Coil overs, 17" RB-R rims, Willwood Brakes,

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So after getting the Z I got stuck into it, having really no idea what I was doing and no previous knowledge of the vehicle all I knew was I needed the car sandblasted and straight,

 

There was damage to the drivers door and a few rust holes here and there which wasn't too bad and then I found bog.. lots of bog, And It covered a lot of rust

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I'm sure some will point out the rear hatch is not original, and they would be correct!

It had about 7 layers of paint ranging in colors from blue, light blue and red. And yes it had rust under all of it

Because the original vented rear hatch that should be on this model had problems with water and exhaust getting into the cabin, I'm happy with the non vented hatch. Plan is to fit the vents but for looks only

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Hi,

    welcome to the forum. Your Z is a lot like mine, it looked all nice and primered and ready to paint and then you have found lots of holes in it. Oh well, it is better to find all the problems and fix them first rather than spending big $ on spraying it and watching the rust creep through in a couple of years. I would favor the L28, they are cheap-people give them away and you can get big power out of them with a turbo and mods if you like. Are you going to repaint it in the yellow-was that its original color? Good luck with it and looks like you are doing a good job. :)

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Not re-painting the original colour (burnt orange)

It will be either one of the original colours from the Z range or one from the current 350/370Z's. still undecided

 

 

 

So at this point I got in contact with Rob at the Zfactory http://www.zfactory.com.au/

I met Rob back when I went to look at a 240z he had for sale, not realizing he restored them for a living but either way Rob told me what the go was and how to fix the car properly.

 

At this stage I bought myself a sandblaster and built myself a booth I could get something the size of a bonnet in,

Then preceded to pull the shell apart and get started

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At this stage I bought myself a sandblaster and built myself a booth I could get something the size of a bonnet in,

pretty handy tool to have,

do you hire out it services?

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Not a chance.....

 

The money one would have to invest to get a decent and usable setup is not worth the income if you ask me,

 

My two $700 compressors were no match for a basic sandblaster, and as it turned out anything bigger than a door I sent to the proper sandblasters. It just took to long for me to do it.

 

Good for small things though

 

 

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I gave up on sandblasting the door shell myself and sent it to the real thing. When I got them back I welded up a few holes, grinded, re-sandblasted (myself) and then painted with either Epoxy Primer or Por-15 depending on what part.

 

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The New door skins I purchased didn't really fit that well so we thought we'd try to use the original skins.

My attempt at fixing the originals turned out to be usable so they were prepared to be put back on and the New one's were sold

 

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Couple of questions.... when welding up small pin holes of rust like you did in the inside of the door, did you use a small block of copper behind so you dont burn thru? What technique do you use?

 

She's looking really good so far. Epoxy is the way to go, will you apply filler work to finish off the panels on top of the epoxy or on top of bare metal?

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Getting there.  Looking pretty good.

Just a note, I started this build a few years ago so If the progress seems fast.....it's not. I have lots of pic's so I'm adding them when I have spare time.

 

And Veloce,

I didn't use a "block of copper" behind the welds because I didn't know back then how much this technique helped, Now I use cheap Panel Beating Dollies and it works a treat.

I'm hoping not to use any of the usual "bog" filler, (more on this later) Also from what I understand your not suppose to put filler on bare metal, I've been told it absorbs water/ traps it and then rusts out the panel. But I could be wrong

 

 

 

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Interesting on using a dolly behind the welds, i would have assumed there was a risk of welding the dolly to the back of the panel! I'll have to give it a try...

 

I also like the idea of filler over epoxy primer, it seems all the veteran hot rod guys do this... DuPont DP40 seems to be the go. And yes... i don't mean inches of bog i meant thin skims of filler putty over the primer to smooth out imperfections.

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The New door skins I purchased didn't really fit that well so we thought we'd try to use the original skins.

 

 

That's a worry.  Where did you source the door skins that didn't fit well?  Myself and others here would find this information valuable......

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Where did you source the door skins that didn't fit well?

New door skins were purchased from ZShop in Glen Iris, The problem was the lines in the skins didn't line up well with the car.

The main line runs through the handle impression so they could have been made to fit but at the cost of time and money.

The originals were not rusted that bad

 

 

So at this stage it was decided that the car would go to Rob's workshop and onto a rotisserie to make working on the car easier.

The problem areas looked rusty as normal - Wiper motor area, rear arches and legs, floors, and rear hatch plate.

Weirdly the engine bay looked rust free

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Doors reassembled

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  • 3 weeks later...

 

So I started removing a few parts and checking all the rust out

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After having a good look over the shell, we decided to replace the floors first, after the floors were welded back together we could start removing more rust affected areas without compromising the strength of the shell and risking it moving

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I also managed to pick up a re-skinned 240z dash for cheap, definitely a big win here...

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Adrian - I'm very impressed with your attitude and approach to this for a first-timer. I have a couple of comments you may wish to take on-board.

 

If you alter the rotisserie mounts to an axis of rotation 75mm above the bumper bar mounts you will find the shell will rotate very very easily. Also, if you are installing a V8 you might want to consider stronger frame rails with built-in gearbox cross-member mounting points.

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