Tim's White 71' 240Z aka 570Z

[RB30X]

Bit hard to photograph the new rims with the sun the way it was or at night.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Riceburner]

Looking fantastic! I think you've nailed the wheel color, it offsets the white very well 

[Veloce]

Perfect rim choice me like ! 

[C.A.R.]

Looks awesome Tim!

[garvice]

Were they going to turn you away until you showed them your engine bay? (Looks like there are no other japanese cars there).

[RB30X]

Were they going to turn you away until you showed them your engine bay? (Looks like there are no other japanese cars there).

 

Thanks guys.

 

Yeah I did feel out numbered.

 

Hopefully the will be a lot more Jap cars at the actual track tomorrow.

[peter mc]

mate thats hot  well done

 

[haul]

Went and had a look last night Tim , the dark rims against the white looks good, I thought the Z stood out against the rest quite well, if I get mine squared away we may have two there next year.

 

Cheers Tony

[RB30X]

Keep your eyes peeled on the v8 coverage this arv. All the display cars get to tag along behind the driver parade. I'll be the one in white zed, the only zed, almost the only one that isn't a Ford or a Holden.

[RB30X]

Well there hasn't been an update for a while cause I've been so busy. The V8's was an awesome weekend. Would you believe I only got one photo of it on the track.

 

 

Im moving from Townsville down to Gladstone to start a new job. I've been at my current one for eleven and a half years so it's a big move but one that I hope will pay off. I've been driving the zed to work as a daily for a while as I know it will get a lot less attention for a while after the move. That's not to say I haven’t been planning things. Since my clutch started slipping I have been considering my options. Because the car is so light, I don’t need a hard core replacement clutch as this will ruin drivability and give me a tougher pedal. The LS7 clutches are working a treat behind some big hp dunnydores so that’s good enough for me and a good price too. Replacing this for me will involve removing the engine and gearbox together so that should be fun. I have been collecting parts to do a few things while the engine is out and separated from the gearbox. Apart from a new clutch, I’ll have a new slave cylinder/throw out bearing and new spigot bearing to go in. I think my spigot is dying and the extra drag on the input shaft is keeping it turning during gear changes. A new bearing here should see my changes improve. A new braided line from the master to the slave should improve pedal feel too.

 

My rear main has always had a leak so I’ve got a new crank seal to go on. Hopefully that’s all it is. I’ve got a new timing chain to go on as well as an under driven balancer. I also bought a used LS1 oil pump off ebay for $1 + $10 postage. I’ve used this spare to carry out a few mods commonly done to the LS1 oil pump. Porting the inlet and exits of the pump and shimming the relief valve. Easy to do, and the extra flow may save me in on track event. All this collecting parts has me thinking about a bigger cam now. Just a small cam……. I’m pretty sure I’m going all Bogan again now. I don’t need any extra power. This thing pulls like a steam train as is, but its not enough any more. Do I install a cam while I’ve got the engine out? I’ve got that spare set of cylinder heads too. I’m thinking of given them a tickle to smooth out the ports and valve guides and port match the flange surface. Then get them shaved a bit to ‘up’ the compression. I’ve got the better valve springs to go on yet, as well as the LS6 injectors, and the custom fuel rail. I’ll probably order some ARP head bolts and flywheel bolts etc to keep it all together. Man I’ve got so much to do. I cant wait to move down there and get into a house with a shed so the fun can begin. I also have to a bit more to strengthen the chassis too. Until then….

 

 

 

 

 

[RB30X]

Another little project I've had to attack lately is the fact my Zed will be getting relocated on a car transporter. I asked what the required clearance was for such a transporter and the answer was 6 inches. No worries, only have to find another 4 inches and I'll be sweet. Apart from swapping in my old springs, the only other option was to make a tool that would encapsulate the helper spring and retain its 'unloaded' spring height, when the weight of the car is on it. This should gain me an extra 2 inches. Excuse the poor welding, the TIG was out of action when I made these.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Transporter, here I come.

 

 

[C.A.R.]

Good luck with the move Tim

Be very wary of the car transporters - they have been known to take cars for little drives, & returning them damaged...

 

I'd give Peter a call about getting the heads & manifod ported too...

[RB30X]

Thanks Locky.

 

Both he an I took lots of photos including the odometer.

 

It's all insured but hopefully I won't have to go there.

 

:'(

 

[peter t]

Hi Tim, give me a shout when you get settled and we can meet up as I go through Gladstone every two weeks.

[RB30X]

Sounds good mate. I'll take you for a ride in the old girl if we can find a place in tannum sand where the rent is less than $700/week.

[bluerat]

G'day Tim,

I was just talking to a mate of mine who moved up to Townsville earlier in the year, he said he went to a kart track lap dash and saw this guy cutting loose in a white Ls-1 powered 240Z, I said I think I know who that might be, LOL. Small world.

 

Hodgo

[RB30X]

Ha ha, small world Hodgo.

 

 

My wife always says to me, “Abstinence makes the heart grow fonder”.

Now I know what she means.

 

I haven’t been able to spend much ‘quality time’ with the Zed of late but its certainly going to get some attention soon, now that I (we) are almost settled in a new place.

As I’ve mentioned on several occasions, I’m going to pull the engine and gearbox out, initially to replace the slipping clutch but that has merely started this snow ball effect.

Some new floor pans arrived last week to go in. The existing floor isn’t rusty but it is 40 years old (as far as I know) and is less than flat, so any work to the chassis rails will be difficult to get right so I thought I might as well bite the bullet and replace the floor as well. I am looking into getting some rails made similar to the bad dog style which will extend right to the rear. The replacement floor pans came with replacement rails as well but they are only the original length so I don’t plan on using them. I was surprised to see they are made out of thicker steel than the originals so I would assume you could jack the car up and not damage these ones.

While the seats are out for the floor replacement, I might look into lowering the seat mounts or making lower ones as my helmet hits the roof when racing the car and I’m not even remotely tall.

 

The engine itself will be getting a few presents too.

I’m looking into getting a large cam package for it now. Initially I was looking at smaller cams but the pros reckon the lightness of the car will simply turn it into a tyre peeler so I should look at something bigger with a higher rpm range. Currently a 238/240 112 is looking like the go. For those unfamiliar with LS1 cams here is a commonly used table below to give you an idea of where that size cam sits.

 

 

Can you imagine the idle sound?

 

Guys with this cam and similar mods are making between 300-340rwkw. That will mean between 250-280rwkw per tonne.

The engine will obviously need a lot of other go fast gear to help it make that sort of power.

 

Anyway I’ll be keeping you posted when things start to happen.

 

 

Thanks for that piece of rail too Peter, I haven’t picked it up yet, maybe tomorrow. Let me know when you’re next passing through Gladstone and I’ll take you for a ride in the old girl before any work starts.

 

cheers

 

[tir33d]

Careful now Tim, if you go for a big cam and you want to shave your heads you will run into PTV clearance problems ( making it necessary to fly cut your pistons). My VE ute runs a 220/220 cam, it is a nice mild cam which put 320kw to the rollers on a dyno. This cam enables you to use 6th gear down to 80-85km/h, but still pulls strongly up to 6300 and carries to 7000rpm. (Also remember VE has great heads and higher compression and 6.0L )

My old cam in the 280 was around to 228/232, was a good cam but never road driven. My new cam I believe is a 230/230 with about 600 lift (old cam had nearer tto 650 lift and we thought that was being a bit hard on the valvetrain gear.)

With this new cam my mech has had it in a drift car bouncing on 7000 continously and still makes easy 300kw at the wheels.

I know you love it and seem to have the funds, but unless you are going to do a mini rebuild maybe you should lower the cam specs.

A torquey cam is still very driveable, and much more usable. A big cam mean you have to rev it to get it. Hills mean gear changes. If you go to big at the track you will find your changing gears more often to keep in the peak zone of the cam. I much prefer a cam that will still work down to 3000rpm say, as opposed to a cam that will only scream from 4500. Are those cam specs a TK Cam? (Turbo killer).

[PeterAllen]

... The existing floor isn’t rusty but it is 40 years old (as far as I know) and is less than flat, so any work to the chassis rails will be difficult to get right ...

 

Tim - If it ain't broke don't fix it.

 

You might want to reconsider this issue. It is very very easy to beat out the floor pan with a piece of 4"x2" (held by hand underneath) and a hammer - even all the recesses. The new floor pan can sometimes be difficult to weld to the existing 40 year old metal and its a fiddly and time consuming job with seat mounts involved.

 

I would suggest you try this technique first and see how it goes - you've got nothing to lose. Remember to old rule of a hundred little taps are better than one heavy whack.

 

If the floor and rail are bowed up just lay a longer piece of 4"'x2" and give it a whack and you will straighten out the rail at the same time. You can then leave the existing rail in place and simply lay the new longer rail over it.

 

[KatoKid]

Tim,

 

Gotta say I agree with Pete on this, mine was fairly bent up but they are easy to work using the block of wood method. I had some oil caning in some places but a few shrinks and hammer/dolly work and she was as good as new. Much easier than replacing non rusty floors.

[RB30X]

Thanks guys, I'll take some photos to show you what I'm looking at. Before I start cutting I will sand the floors back to steel so I can see how the steel looks.

[peter mc]

the cam for street in these is tricky i like 224 224  on 112 for street it nice to tune and get the job done

 

[RB30X]

Hey Peter, cams that size are for mediumish performance street cars. With this being a weekend car, I might as well go a little larger. What type of porting tips do you use for alloy heads? NF carbid. I've got a heap of the steel cutting tips of all different shapes but they fill up with the alloy really quickly and block em up. Here is some pics of the ports.

 

 

 

 

 

Here are some pics of under the car. As you can see there are some funky lines going on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[KatoKid]

Looks like youve got some type of spray on body deadner there??? Have you scraped some off to see what it looks like underneath?

[peter mc]

just a hint ..use crc or wd40 in the port and on the cutting tips stops them clogging works a treat,as for the cam i have not seen big defence in the cam when u go to big they drop lots down low ,,, if you get the comp up and run a solid roller its a diffrent animal. but if wont a good increase with not lots of trouble the 224 cam with 20Th of the heads and port job they make some good power  ...the ports are $1000 at Higgins cnc and work OK ,,,, if you do them be careful as the intake port is real thin in the walls ,the ex port needs lot of work they also like 1.8 rockers as this opens them much faster