Tim's White 71' 240Z aka 570Z

[RB30X]

Do you mean solid lifters Peter?

I'm aiming for about 300rwkw. Would a 224 with 40 thou off the ported heads get that sort of power?

[peter mc]

only 20th mate or the manifold wont fit

[tir33d]

Just so happen to have a couple of sliced heads. Not alot of room for error. CNC is easy and reliable.

Don't be fixated with rwkw. As most know dynos are different everywhere.

 

[RB30X]

I cant make out what part of the head that is?

[tir33d]

sliced down thru valves. Ultimately showing you have shaping room only, take too much and your gonna loose. prob only 4mm between water and ports.

[peter mc]

yer not for the beginner lots of holes 

[RB30X]

Yeah the only place I'm removing lots of meat is around the inlet valve stem, the rest is just a polish to remove casting imperfections. Here are some progress shots.

 

 

 

[peter mc]

hi mate just blend the seat in to the port u need to work that area

use the cutter with crc on it and work the short tern a bit then get a strip of Emery and work it back and forth to make it smooth

 

[RB30X]

Which tern is the short tern you say?

[peter t]

Can't help with engine but you really need to get that thing on a BBQ and strip all the shit off and strengthen up your body to handle that power or your are going to twist it apart.

[peter mc]

mate u should call me so i can guide u thru it

[RB30X]

Talked to Pete the other day about porting and got a few tips off the 'head' master. Thanks heaps Peter. I've almost got one head completed to my liking. The are a couple of sections in the middle of the ports that my porting tool cannot reach so they may get left in the cast alloy finish, but other than that a lot of meat has been removed from the required areas. I had ally shavings everywhere, all through my garage and stuck in my feet etc.

I dont know how you can remain so passionate about this job Peter. You must spend so many hours a week porting heads. I've almost had enough and I've nearly done one!

To help my learning, here are some cross sections I dug up of LS1 heads and what happens when you go too deep. Apparently they arent water jackets or anything that have been opened up, but rocker bolt holes. These can be sealed up when installing the rocker bolt. Still, I didnt want to risk it. 

 

 

 

 

 

My progress.

 

 

 

I found a local company to press up some chassis rails for me too. Turns out the bloke that owns the business used to own a few Zeds and could've chatted for hours about them. Anyway, I am really happy with them. Dimensions are 70mmx25mmx13mm in 1.6mm steel. 70mm wide (to fit snug over the existing rail up near the engine bay) 25mm deep (a little deeper than factory incase I want to incorporate some type of mounting inside them as well) and 13mm each side which will sit against the floor pan.

They are 1.5m long, which gives me enough length to mount them approx half way between the front of the floor pan and the castor rod mount, and leaves enough for me to bend it up into the rear sub frame.

My wife is taking the kids on a roady back up to Townsville soon and I've got all these plans for stuff I want to get done. Floor and chassis rails is a big one, whilst looking at if I can lower the seating position at all. Remove engine and gearbox, possibly fitting new clutch, cam and heads if I have time (not). Install a CD player so I have tunes finally, and make up speaker box etc. How much of this will actually happen in my short break, not much I bet.

 

 

[Riceburner]

Hey Tim, should do the trick. Did you get the front pieces made up too, triangular section where the t/c rods attach?

 

Len Brennan put captive nuts and reinforcing in his rails, then fitted a removable cross brace just behind the bell housing to eliminate twisting of the chassis. The new GTR's have a similar setup apparently.

[RB30X]

Yes I was discussing with myself the potential of encorporating cross brace into the rails earlier Gareth. Tucking the exhaust up as well as the cross brace is an issue though.

[Z]

Ok so chassis rails, removal of engine/gearbox, stereo and speaker box, clutch, finish porting - and then put it all back, too easy!!!

[RB30X]

Ok so chassis rails, removal of engine/gearbox, stereo and speaker box, clutch, finish porting - and then put it all back, too easy!!!

 

Sounds simple enough hey.

 

Already ran into my first snag (if you can call it that)

 

 

I removed the driver seat to properly inspect the floor from inside and there is zero signs of rust. It would be a lot of unecessary work to replace both floor pans for the purpose of making it look neater. So I may resort to the method Peter mentioned to simply straighten up the floor as best I can before installing new chassis rails. What ever coating they used underneath is brilliant as I peeled some off yesterday and the bare steel underneath is untouched.

 

 

 

 

So I have two new floor pans with factory chassis rails for sale if anyone is keen as it looks like I wont be needing them.

Like these: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DATSUN-240Z-260Z-RIGHT-HAND-DRIVERS-FLOOR-PAN-/230680719527?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b5a470a7

 

[RB30X]

I've pulled the rear end out to diagnose a drivetrain problem (http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,9806.0.html) but also to give me more room to fabricate the rear sections of the chassis rails.

 

 

 

 

 

I've cut away the drivers side rail and prepped the floor to be welded. I'm thinking of teck screwing the rail to the floor to keep it there as I tack it on.

 

 

 

[PeterAllen]

Tim - a couple of suggestions:

 

Try using this stuff to prep the rails - I've had no trouble welding through it. Think I got it from Supercheap.

http://www.knockout-rust.com.au/

 

Also, you might want to consider carefully drilling only two of those screw holes in the ends of the rails and then running a string-line (or the like) between the two screw threads inside the cabin. You could then drill a series of say 5mm holes along the line. By holding the rail up against the floor with a jack you could then weld the rail to the floor at the hole points, all from inside the cabin!

 

Of course if you prefer the masochistic pain of molten metal running down inside your sleeves and splitting your head open as you react to the pain, by all means proceed to use an overhead welding technique.

[RB30X]

Peter, you are the man.

 

I am definetly doing it that way.

 

This time yesterday, my arms were shaking from power tool vibtration and I could hardly hold them in the air (still sore), I looked like gorilla, sprayed head to toe in tar uncoating from the spray of a wire wheel on a grinder, while steel and rust dust particles worked their way into my pores as I sweat, while claret ran from a hole in my head from smacking it against one of the brackets that is used to hold the moustache bar under the car.

 

Anything I can do from the cabin works for me.

 

Cheers

[peter t]

Peter, you are the man.

 

I am definitely doing it that way.

 

This time yesterday, my arms were shaking from power tool vibration and I could hardly hold them in the air (still sore), I looked like gorilla, sprayed head to toe in tar uncoating from the spray of a wire wheel on a grinder, while steel and rust dust particles worked their way into my pores as I sweat, while claret ran from a hole in my head from smacking it against one of the brackets that is used to hold the moustache bar under the car.

 

Anything I can do from the cabin works for me.

Been there done that. Thats why I bit the bullet and put it up on the BBQ. So much easier standing up and welding as God designed us.

 

Cheers

[RB30X]

Checked the diff backlash today.

I got 0.18 which is at the limit of factory specs so it shouldn't need adjusting.

 

 

 

 

I finished making the RH chassis rail today. I drilled holes in the floor as per Pete's sugestion and welded through the floor onto the rail. Was much easier, but obviously doesnt 'seal' the edge of the rail like welding underneath would. You may notice the extra piece of RHS in the middle of the rail. That sits flush with the floor and will hopefully add enough strength and distribute the load enough for me to jack one side of the car up from the middle, without crushing the chassis rail.

 

 

 

 

[PeterAllen]

Tim - Did you prep the inside of the rails or are you going to spray something in afterwards?

[RB30X]

Afterwards Peter.

 

Since John is showing off his new daily I thought I'd post up mine.

 

It's a vx clubsport R8, auto with big brakes. The colour is called tungsten and I really like it. Much rarer than the colour of other clubby's.

 

 

[Z]

V8 boy through and through 

[RB30X]

Too true mate.

 

I've had my fair share of turbos but it like the predictability of NA torque.

 

I'm more of a bogan than I think I am.