RB30X Posted April 29, 2010 Share Posted April 29, 2010 Use Transmax Z, the LS1 guys use it in their T56's. Cheaper than Redline but Redline is a very good brand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ApplePrincess88 Posted April 29, 2010 Share Posted April 29, 2010 SYNCHRO PROBLEM FOR SHIZZLE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBZ 260 Posted April 29, 2010 Share Posted April 29, 2010 hey stevo arent u a moderator? whats with the pink and shouting? (actualy thats not shouting thats using PA system to the max. ..... ) thanks for the tip Lynton. i got similar issue with my s14. though using castrol oils that nissan recomended. may try the additive as well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter t Posted April 29, 2010 Share Posted April 29, 2010 She is a woman and not game to show herself so she has to shout to be heard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynton Posted April 29, 2010 Share Posted April 29, 2010 umm! keep away from castrol in Nissans even though they are Nissan recommended!! from a dear friend of mine who has spent nearly all his life as a motor mechanic on Nissan/Datsuns and Nissan 4WD's. The Castrol oil breaks down way to quickly, I am told. Lynton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBZ 260 Posted April 29, 2010 Share Posted April 29, 2010 ive used castrol for few years. mate used to work at nissan and recomended to get the castrol. its due for replacement so what u use with the nulon additive? redline is bit exy at the moment for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunter Posted April 29, 2010 Share Posted April 29, 2010 quit with the shizzle business, I hate Homey G's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevo_gj Posted April 29, 2010 Author Share Posted April 29, 2010 I was recommended to use Nulon or Redline gearbox slip additive oil by Nissan as I complained that I felt the S15 box was a little notchy especially between 1st & 2nd when I first purchased the car, not a clean cut razor sharp change as you would expect!! I have done well over 200,000kms on both clutch and gearbox and still don't have any further issues. I guess it is a game of suck and see, the Nulon will take a few kms to settle in and lubricate the box properly. Lynton Brilliant, I shall look into doing this thanks Lynton. I'll post an update in a week or so with the results. Appleprincess shouldn't you be making Shaun lunch or something? Don't worry Hunter I know who she is So yeah Lynton if not Castrol oil what gear oil do you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynton Posted April 29, 2010 Share Posted April 29, 2010 Don't forget I am in Qld a slightly warmer ambient temperature, so, natural or semi synthetic - Fuchs or Penrite gear oil 75/80 for the G/Box. And a 20/50 Penrite or Fuchs for the engine. you can go 10 weight heavier for an older worn engine. Lynton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunter Posted April 29, 2010 Share Posted April 29, 2010 all good stevo. just watch yourself apples lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevo_gj Posted April 30, 2010 Author Share Posted April 30, 2010 Well I got the car back today and the new rubbers look wayy better. I need to get some polish onto the newly revealed stainless steel rear quarters but I'm pretty happy with it. On the drive home the indicators stopped working (it never ends). I took off the steering wheel and little black box covering the wiring but I can't see anything wrong with the mechanism. Nothing happens when the indicator is triggered in either direction, and it stopped suddenly when driving. I could see two white and one green wire coming out of the back of the indicator switch so I thought I'd try bridging them to see if the switch was the problem. No such luck apparently. None of the fuses in the fuse box appear to be blown and the fusible links are intact. Are there any other fuses I should look at? I don't think the bulbs could be blown since that usually makes the others indicate faster... Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter t Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 Could be the flasher unit. Does your hazard lights work as they run off different flasher units. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevo_gj Posted April 30, 2010 Author Share Posted April 30, 2010 Could be the flasher unit. Does your hazard lights work as they run off different flasher units. Don't have hazard lights and the flasher unit is only about 10 months old. I'll try replacing it tomorrow anyway and see if that helps. Any other ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PZG302 Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 Don't have hazard lights and the flasher unit is only about 10 months old. I'll try replacing it tomorrow anyway and see if that helps. Any other ideas? My money's on the flasher unit.... Switches tend to get cranky and operate intermittently before they finally shit themsleves. Easy solution Steve, turn it into a race car, then when things like indicators fail, who cares they are only extra weight anyways Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevo_gj Posted April 30, 2010 Author Share Posted April 30, 2010 Haha good to hear it might end up being an easy fix. First thing in the morning I'm off to supercheap. daily driving racer has a nice ring to it That method I tried of bridging out the switch using the wires at the rear, should that work normally? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter t Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 Have a wiring diagram if you want it and some spare flasher units you could try if you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevo_gj Posted May 1, 2010 Author Share Posted May 1, 2010 Peter I think I will definitely need that wiring diagram, any way you could send an electronic copy to stevo_gj AT hotmail.com ? So it turned out the flasher fuse had blown and it just looked fine. Shaun tipped me to pulling it out to get a good look and sure enough there was a tiny break. yay! problem solved right? Wrong. The next two fuses (10A then 20A) that I have put in have blown after about 5 minutes of driving. I can't be 100% sure that its not something I've done when I opened up the cover and had a look at the indicator mechanism. Whatever is causing it, at the same time as the fuse blows my head unit switches off and then on again. I'm thinking I might check to see if the head unit wiring (which I did) is dodgy or is exposed or something like that. I'll borrow Shaun's voltmeter and get a wiring diagram and start probing. Anyone have any ideas on possible causes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_sushi Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 Seeing as though we were pulling that center console around with all the wires for the head unit still attached, I would just check all of the wiring behind that. I bet you somethings grounding on something or not hookedup right behind there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevo_gj Posted May 1, 2010 Author Share Posted May 1, 2010 Ah yep that makes sense. Sounds like a good starting point. Hehe I spent like 30 minutes getting that choke lever to bolt back onto the centre console- I really need to bolt it to the transmission tunnel it would make the removal job so much easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
. Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 Peter I think I will definitely need that wiring diagram, any way you could send an electronic copy to stevo_gj AT hotmail.com ? So it turned out the flasher fuse had blown and it just looked fine. Shaun tipped me to pulling it out to get a good look and sure enough there was a tiny break. yay! problem solved right? Wrong. The next two fuses (10A then 20A) that I have put in have blown after about 5 minutes of driving. I can't be 100% sure that its not something I've done when I opened up the cover and had a look at the indicator mechanism. Whatever is causing it, at the same time as the fuse blows my head unit switches off and then on again. I'm thinking I might check to see if the head unit wiring (which I did) is dodgy or is exposed or something like that. I'll borrow Shaun's voltmeter and get a wiring diagram and start probing. Anyone have any ideas on possible causes? Replace the fuse with a nail. It will double the life of your blinkers from 5 minutes driving to 10 minutes driving........sure you car will catch fire and burn to the ground but at least you'll have doubled the life of your blinkers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PZG302 Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 Replace the fuse with a nail. It will double the life of your blinkers from 5 minutes driving to 10 minutes driving........sure you car will catch fire and burn to the ground but at least you'll have doubled the life of your blinkers. There's nothing wrong with a 10,000amp slow blow fuse!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunter Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 I have never had a problem with using cut up 8" nails in my fuse box, I never get blown fuses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter t Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 God some people talk sh@t. Why not weld a piece of steel in there. Save money on nails. Also get some wire from the overhead electricity lines for your wiring harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevo_gj Posted May 2, 2010 Author Share Posted May 2, 2010 Got side swiped at the carpark at Uni yesterday. Some guy reversed out and obviously started turning too soon. After cleaning the black shiver in the area up it's not nearly as bad as I thought. I'll just wait a couple months until I'm taking the car back to the painters to get the dent and paintwork fixed. It's been a bad month for Zs... As Shaun suggested I took off the console and redid a lot of the wiring for the Retrosound head unit so that its easily removable and much neater. I've blanked off a couple of potential causes of the fuses blowing and it all went back together nicely. I even managed to chop off the broken end of the aerial wire and reattach the same end from a newer cable. I didn't think it would work but surprisingly as soon as i put it back in the radio I had better reception than I can remember. To facilitate this work I bit the bullet and went to supercheap to spend about $100 on small tools and consumables to do the wiring properly. I've also run 2 RCA cables and the amp switch wire under the console so I shouldn't have to remove it when I buy the amp I plan on getting. This amp will power the speakers that are going inside the MSA style speakerbox Shaun made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunter Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 peter t, welding rods cost more than nails. lol. Sorry I will stop talking Sh!te now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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