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Posted

Hi Guys,

 

We're doing a bit of a freshen up of the 240's existing L24 motor and have come across a bit of a speed bump on the weekend.

 

Started to strip down the motor to inspect the cylinders / pistons and are struggling to remove the head / head bolts. One of them has snapped just below the head of the bolt (photo attached), and a few others seem to have started to unscrew (using a huge amount of force) but are not becoming any easier to remove the further we try to turn, some are actually becoming harder.

 

We have tried to force the head loose of the block now that the bolts are at a level to allow movement but it doesn't want to budge.

 

Could this mean there is some internal rusting?

 

Has anyone had the same type of issue and know if there's a way to fix it?

 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

 

Shaun

 

 

 

post-103408-0-05944400-1442403163_thumb.jpg

post-103408-0-16930300-1442403182_thumb.jpg

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Posted

Gidday

 

If you have managed to get the bolts even slightly loose can you get some Inox or similar down the bolt shaft ?

Let it soak for a day or two then have another go.

Also assuming you have tried turning the bolts back and forth to work the thread ?

 

Good luck.

 

PS to fix any broken threads or similar I use

 

John @ J & G Threads 0419273371

  • Administrators
Posted

Even when I removed my head bolts it took a bit of persuasion for the head to come off. I could tap it with a mallet to break the seal between the block and head, with a snapped bolt still in there it might be hard to get any sort of movement. As mentioned try some penetrating fluid to see if you can break the bind.

Good luck, never saw a broken head bolt before though!

Posted (edited)

The previous person may have used a loctite or something similar on the threads for some reason. Generally the best way to remove them is heat. So you would heat the area on the block where the bolt is, therefore melting the glue and possibly allowing for a small amount of metal expansion making it easier to remove the bolt. Please only try this if you fully understand. When you put you new bolts in put some neverseize on them. :)

Edited by blu260z
Posted

Thanks for the feedback,

 

I have tried soaking the bolts and working the threads back and forth for the past few days but it doesn't seem to be getting any easier.. Will keep trying this process however.

 

To give you any indication, we were using a 3 foot steel pole on the end of a 10mm allen key and still struggling. Does this seam abnormal?

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Posted

 

To give you any indication, we were using a 3 foot steel pole on the end of a 10mm allen key and still struggling. Does this seam abnormal?

 

Yes I pulled apart an L28 that was sitting for 20 years and it came apart relatively easily, even the seized piston came out quite easily once I tore it all down...So this does seem unusual.

Posted

Yep the timing cover bolts have been removed. We are getting some small separation at the front now approx. 2-3mm but the back drivers side corner is still sticking.

 

Will keep working away at it, just trying not to twist the head too much!

Posted

Hi Shaun,

               Loctite make an excellent product for removal of rusted bolts. ( Loctite LB 8040 Freeze & Release ). It comes in an aerosol can. The freeze contracts and cracks the rust allowing the penetrating oil to wick into the cracks. Works great. Spray and let it soak in.

David

Posted

Hi Shaun,

               Loctite make an excellent product for removal of rusted bolts. ( Loctite LB 8040 Freeze & Release ). It comes in an aerosol can. The freeze contracts and cracks the rust allowing the penetrating oil to wick into the cracks. Works great. Spray and let it soak in.

David

 

That sounds interesting. I'll have to check it out.

 

I made my own. 1 part acetone to 1 part ATF. Shake well before use as they don't mix well. It's a popular penetrant online.

 

https://www.google.com.au/?gws_rd=ssl#q=acetone+and+atf

  • 2 years later...

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