Choosing an engine for my next track zed.

[zzzzed]

What I am after is a reliable 300 to 350 rwkw as cheaply as possible.

The vq35 does appeal to me

[benny]

What I am after is a reliable 300 to 350 rwkw as cheaply as possible.

The vq35 does appeal to me

 

 

ill leave these here

 

 

 

 

 

 

view his other vids too.

[gav240z]

if you want better weight distribution go Rotory.

 

I don't like the sound of rota's and from reading specs the 20b is heavier than

 

Don't like the sound of a 20B?

 

 

I'm a self confessed rotard though.

 

Plus you said reliable, rotaries can be a little fussy if not given the proper care they need.

 

I think the weight difference is comparing a stock 20B with all it's twin turbo gear on it etc.. A non-turbo 20B motor should be very light sit far back in the engine bay and have a low center of gravity. But it would be pushing it to build 1 at $8k and do the conversion. In fact I don't think it would be possible on that budget.

 

A 13B however would be possible and would make for an interesting weight distribution set up.

(turn the volume down!)

 

[d3c0y]

What I am after is a reliable 300 to 350 rwkw as cheaply as possible.

The vq35 does appeal to me

 

 

VQ35 will struggling to make 300-350rwkw without a ton of money in it.

13B-REW will do that much power pretty cheap. You will only just buy a stock 20B for that much money.

 

 

Does the $8k include fitting the engine?

[Ledge]

Kym's 13B makes over 350rwkw, he gives it no love at all. been going strong for years.

 

To be honest knackers there is no Perfect solution here. Just go with whatever you are keen on

and stick with it. Any Stock road car engine is not going to like track work. It is a matter of time

before it pops.

I would say spend the 8 on the RB25 you have. good rods and pistons, bit of head work and springs.

That will make it reliable and get you over 300.

[zzzzed]

Yeh sort gave its that tin can sound when they are idling I don't like.

Yeh any thing could happen at this stage. It will be at least 12 months before I am ready for an engine.

So it will prob be a case of what turns up first.

Bet like you said Paul a stock road engine won't like track work for to long. An ls1 can be had for around the same price as an rb25 so which ever one I get it will be getting money spent on it before it goes in the car.

[Scoota G]

I thought about that. But I  not sure if I can handle the 4 cylinder farty sound.

Have you spent much time with Modified SR20DET's? I'm thinking not Mick!!

[MaygZ]

For $10000 an LSA engine would be fun,same engine as in the gts,559hp out of the crate and with a few mods make 700hp.

 

...and a much better note than a farty turbo

[zzzzed]

Have you spent much time with Modified SR20DET's? I'm thinking not Mick!!

Geeze u am upsetting every one lol. Yeh I have had many modified 4cylinder cars and had a mate with a sr20 Putting out around 250rwkw. They don't sound as good as a 6. 8. 10 or 12 unless you can get them revving like a motorcycle. 

 

[tir33d]

My thoughts involve a dry sump if its a track car, before you waste money on lunching a motor. My LS1 is a standard bottom end rattler (oil consumption recall) 5.7. Has 5.3 litre heads with 6 L valves, so good compression, fast inlet manifold, swing a decent stick, put it through big pipes and its 450 hp atw. Bottom end cost $1000.

Intial spend and then ongoing spend are two different things.

I did my conversion for about $12k with brand new 6 speed and clutch ($3700), suspension $2k, exhaust $2500, my moroso sump was about $800 once fitted, cam springs and tune $2500. It all adds up.

Cheapest way is buy a wreck.

You will spend $10k getting a old LS1 going properly and fitted. Save your dollars from then and maybe build a motor, rather than buying a stock crate motor then changing cams and springs and and and.

Luv my LS1, my balance in a fully caged stripped 280zx is 51/49. 1320kg with me and 40l of fuel.

But in saying all the above, I would seriously consider where you will end up category wise. I find that I am easily classed as a sport sedan due to motor swap. Time again, and knowledge of the motors (I am a V8 boy) I would seriously consider a RB26, SR20. If your not chasing 600hp, they should be more reliable. I have a mate that just sold his 820hp atw 2jz because he struggled to get 5 laps without something else failing. Maybe 8800 rpm and 28psi had something to do with it. He bought a new 820hp flywheel nascar motor for $23k with headers and dry sump.

Was going to spend $8k on building a motor after last one died from oil starvation, but spent $6k on drysump and put another old motor in. Next blow or when I feel rich we will do the motor properly.

[dat240z]

Go the 2JZ with a 6 speed manual. Minor mods will create whatever power you desire, theyre well and truly over engineered and some say the bottom end is good for 1000hp stock! Its reliable, better economy (not that it matters) than RB's and are somewhat unique in a  z..... I thought about going that route but was a little worried about the engine height in the bay.....

[Retro Z]

My brothers owned aswell as tuned several customers stock bottom ended 2jz's from ranging 400-600rwkw. Most had large frame gt45 single turbos which hit boost earlier than the stock twin turbos. Some were running 35+psi of boost and have yet to let go.

 

[Karljsw]

Why not V-tec yo??

 

 

 

Just kidding 

 

I'd personally go 2jz to stand out a little bit from the crowd. The platform has great after market support as well as the above mentioned reliability.

 

 

There are plenty of Rb Z's around the only differnece really between rb and 2jz is do you want to keep it inside the nissan family?

 

Or put a hemi in it lol (sorry couldn't resist, would be neat though)

[zzzzed]

my mind has been made up for now it will be reveals in the near future

[zzzzed]

Ok here's the new engine 

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/361132495161?_mwBanner=1

[zzzzed]

But seriously you guys have swayed me a bit on the 2jz. I had no idea they were that strong

I have something in the pipe line right now but if it falls through I will look closer at the 2j swap.

[JDSM]

I went up to that wreckers to pick up some parts for my Impreza the other day and they sure have a few interesting bits and pieces lying around to say the least! I think I'd prefer the sound of this one though:

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ferrari-458-Italia-4-5L-V8-Complete-Engine-Motor-2012-/361115119294?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5414236ebe

 

On the 2JZ, I previously had a 1JZ and loved it (even with 0.5L less). Very reliable, handled large amounts of boost un-opened, just a shame about the type of cars they all came in... And how expensive the manual gearbags are. But both my trans and my engine copped a lot of abuse and still performed faultlessly. That was a street car though...

[260DET]

Would not use a 2J engine in a S30 circuit car ever - too heavy, too high CofG, too much weight forward for a chassis like the S30's. Some people get fixated on power irrespective of anything else, for a circuit car it's a mistake.

[44014]

Run a 13b light, tiny .reasonaly cheap and can make a heap of power.

[Scoota G]

Beware, farty 4 Cylinder Sound.

 

[dat240z]

Beware, farty 4 Cylinder Sound.

 

 

Sacrilege!!! A 20B however..............!!!

[zzzzed]

It says video not available for me

[MaygZ]

Mick,

 

you've been in this car.  Special price for you .....

 

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,14863.0.html

[zzzzed]

Thanx Simon. I have something in the pipe line right now

[260DET]

So, has the something in the pipeline emerged yet?