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Posted
Wondering if you'll be running the seats seen in this video also?

 

Yes, I bought an original Ikeda Bussan bucket seat quite a few years back. I stripped it and had a mould made from it, then manufactured a short run of replica seats.

 

I'll cover all this in the thread when I get onto the topic of the interior properly.

Posted

Allan, I saw 'Option 2' springs and sway bars have been picked for the car. Do you know how the different 'sports options' compare in spring rates and sway bar sizes. Did they specify weather it was a road race, rally, wet style of setup?

 

In the 'Nissan Sports' factory race & rally prep manuals they listed 'Option 1', 'Option 2' and 'Rally Option' struts and springs for the 432 & 432-R. Basically, the 'Option 2' has higher rate springs and bump/rebound than the 'Option 1', and the 'Rally Option' has lower rate springs and bump/rebound than the 'Option 1', as you might imagine.

 

There are no 'wet' or 'dry' setups suggested. Interestingly, with the C10 Skylines ( in the PGC10 and KPGC10 race prep manuals ) 'Nissan Sports' described their optional springs and dampers according to circuit. So - for example - there are 'Suzuka' springs and there are 'Fuji' springs. The 'Fuji' springs ( as fitted to my KPGC10 ) are lower rate ( so softer ) than the 'Suzuka' springs to accommodate the bumps on the old banked first corner. Suzuka was a much better surface.

 

I'm going to see how I get on with the springing and damping on the car. I don't want to make it too harsh ( been there, done that ) and I'm prepared to change springs and re-valve the dampers if necessary.     

Posted

When i was reading your thread i was surprised at how mild the Option 2 spring rate is. I guess this isnt what the factor cars were running and more aimed at track day punters right?

Posted

I think - generally speaking - they used to run quite low spring rates. Or certainly compared with what is the 'norm' these days.

 

However, I must say that the damping rates feel much higher than what tends to be used today in (perhaps more sophistaticated?) modern units.

 

It seems to be a different philosophy. Softer springing but higher bump and rebound rates in the dampers. It's like the car is 'sprung' as much by the dampers as the springs themselves. Quite different tyres then, of course.

 

In any case, I don't want this car to feel too stiffly sprung ( my everyday driver is bad enough... ). I want it to move around a bit. More of a ballet dancer than a sumo wrestler.     

Posted

Other things that come into play, no doubt, today is cage design and the rules around these safetly structures. As a result the bodies will be less flexible/act a spring as they once did, however without a full strut to strut cage then what I stated above does not come into it.

 

The s30z is not that heavy in the scheme of things and a macpherson strut has an approx ratio that is close to 1:1. Depending on how you like your car setup (or how stiff the chassis is) it is said that a starting point is 400lb/in acting on a single wheel for a circuit car. Some say you set the front first to match your required setup and balance at the rear to give the over or understeer that you require/feel comfortable with.

 

It can be a bit of a dark science and I for one am still learning and at a guess always will be ;)

 

I have been amazed to learn how much money has been invested in the deployment of products for the automotive industry be it for road or racing. Sometimes we forget that the factories have/had a lot more resources for the deployment of their works/sport options parts. So I would be doing what Alan is doing for spring rates if making a true period replica (look up the dictionary definition of replica).

Posted

This was exactly my point NZedder, 400lbs opposed to low to mid 200s for the Option 2s!

 

 

But Alan and Jason have confirmed my suspicion that it was to do with 14" cross-ply slicks back then. It is interesting about the damper rates though and obviously 40 years of suspension technology you hope they have got a better handle on it!

  • 4 months later...
  • Administrators
Posted

Hi Alan,

Any recent updates on your build? It's London weather in Sydney at the minute (Freezing) and I'm too soft to go into the garage and work away.

 

I was wondering if you can share any photos of the fibreglass bonnet? I'm wondering if you sourced a 'special' make or from a specific manufacturer, or is it a rare Nissan NOS part?

 

I was looking at the ones the company restored offer like this here:

http://www.buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/m127582577 and was wondering if they are anything like the ones that would have been fitted to the PZR cars?

 

Also curious to see how the underside of the bonnet is painted (a flat grey isn't it?) compared to the top side and was there any bonnet pins or similar used that the original steel bonnets didn't have?

 

 

Posted

Hi Alan,

Any recent updates on your build?

 

Gav,

Lots of 'other' (non car-related) stuff happening in my life at the moment, so not much to report really.

 

However, a couple of parts did arrive from Japan last week. Although I was glad to finally receive them, the shipping bill (they were sent freight collect) made me blow a fuse or two. One of the items was packed standing upright on a wooden pallet when it could have been laid flat or just sent as-packed. To add insult to injury the consignment was sent by Express air freight ($$$$) when I'd been waiting so long after having paid for them that I'd almost forgotten what they looked like. Two of the parts shipped I'd actually paid for no less than three years ago, and the big part that was sent standing upright on a wooden pallet I'd bought and paid for - in person in Japan - in early December 2013. Friends, huh?

 

I'll report as soon as I get a chance, and also answer your FRP bonnet questions (the answer is quite complicated and needs photos).

 

Cheers.   

  • Administrators
Posted

No problem Alan, totally understand and take your time.

Posted

However, a couple of parts did arrive from Japan last week. Although I was glad to finally receive them, the shipping bill (they were sent freight collect) made me blow a fuse or two. One of the items was packed standing upright on a wooden pallet when it could have been laid flat or just sent as-packed. To add insult to injury the consignment was sent by Express air freight.... 

 

Just a quickie:

 

Here's the aforementioned item. You'd think it would be common sense to pack it nicely and send it flat, wouldn't you? Instead it was packed and strapped to a wooden pallet standing up....  WTF?

 

2b0daf.jpg

f8d03e.jpg

 

 

  • Administrators
Posted

I still can't work out what it is. It looks like a floor pan but I'm guessing it is some kind of undertray?

  • Moderators
Posted

Hmmm, never ceases to amaze me how some people pack stuff.

Once had a turret arrive at work in the bottom of the pallet of parts  :o

 

 

Posted

It's the extended under tray or belly pan that's unique to this model.

 

Yes, it's the 98200-E7200 'COVER-under' for the 432-R. Black side faces down, with the woven roving side facing up into the engine bay.

 

I take it these are VERY expensive?

 

Yes, and quite hard to get. 

 

But not as expensive as the bloody shipping was.....  >:(

 

I should have taken a photo of it on the pallet. Defied belief.

  • 11 months later...
Posted

I have a mold of the 432 S20 rocker cover for my replica, I would interested in getting a mold of that under pan.

Posted

hey all. just adding my two cents on the packing, if the assumption is correct and this part is expensive, could have been packing upright so that freighters don't place other items on top of it(double stacking etc). we do this at my work sometimes because "top load only" stickers mean nothing to most freight folk.

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