Safari Brown... I mean Gold - The NSW Project

[PeterAllen]

I rest my case.

 

[Retro Z]

If you know how to use a rattle gun properly you won't strip threads.

 

That's what the adjustability of the gun is for and you can also get torque limiting extensions for things like wheel nuts etc.

 

As long as you start threads by hand first and know when to stop then you will be fine.

I was a motor mechanic for 9 years and never stripped a thread because of a rattle gun...or any air ratchet for that matter. And if its in a high traffic workplace where time is crucial air tools are a necessity, try telling you boss it took 20 mins to do a job that can take 3 minutes with air tools.

[PB260Z]

I rest my case.

 

 

That's gold 

[gav240z]

Minor update... got back from California this morning. I had the 240z side emblems (Steel ones) sent to a work colleague in the US since the seller wouldn't ship to AU. Good in general but they suffered some corrosion (being that they are metal) and I'm not sure how I'm going to fix that yet. Lead fill it perhaps? Anyway worry about that down the line..

 

Next step was to get the motor onto the stand...

 

Step 1, remove clutch plate.

 

Step 2. Reference photo so I know which way the clutch plate goes. Thick piece / extruded part faces away from motor to rear of car.

 

Step 3. Flywheel bolts, air gun you say? Nahh just a big ass breaker bar. This cracked their bond pretty quickly.

 

Step 4. Original block blue colour and what looks like a welsh plug on rear? Rear main seal wasn't leaking but it was starting to weep a bit..Before letting the flywheel drop off the motor I placed the plastic lid of an old tool set under it and let it fall onto that, rather than smash the concrete etc..

 

Step 5. I also loosened up the front harmonic balancer bolt so when it comes time later it won't be a prick to undo.

 

I guess next step is to rip engine head off. I didn't actually get the pieces of pipe as suggested. I wanted to get the engine crane under cover as it was getting a little bit of surface rust on it from being outside for the week. I might re-mount it again before I start working on it.

[gav240z]

Quick question fellas. No photos I'm afraid in this update, will get some of those for you lot soon!

 

I've stripped the motor of all it's ancillaries, all that's left is the oil pump and harmonic balancer.

 

My questions are:

1. After I remove the oil pump I'm going to take the rocker cover off and undo the timing chain sprocket bolt. Should I scribe or mark the camshaft sprocket relative to the camshaft position before removing the sprocket? I'm going to either regrind or go with another camshaft profile in all probability so not sure this is required step?

 

2. Anyway to get the harmonic balancer off without a wheel puller? I think I left mine in Melbourne and a soft mallet ain't working...

 

I'm hoping to get the engine head off this weekend and my first look inside at the damage.

 

I was tempted to document the rebuild through videos but not sure I'll get time to edit the footage and make myself look pretty enough for camera... 

 

 

[d3c0y]

Question 1.

Put the motor on TDC before you pull it apart, there is a notch in the back of the cam sprocket that will line up with a line on the front of the cam tower that you can see in between the holes of the gear.

 

 

Question 2. Don't be a tight ass and go down and spend the $40 at super cheap.

[gav240z]

RE: 1 the motor is seized and I can't rotate it.

 

RE: 2 yeah agree .

[Linton]

put motor on tcd Nup you are well past that. Turn it upside down and remove as many bigend caps as you can, they are normally number stamped just make sure to keep them in order if not, give each conrod with the cap off a tap and see if it seized, remove completely if not, then work on the seized pistons, get some crc or similar kero maybe in the bores and let it soak for a few days to break the seal. it will probably have to be re bored might just have to get a bit rough with it.

[d3c0y]

Ha totally forgot it was seized and for some reason that you werent just taking the head off and putting it back on lol! Just pull her apart and re-assemble it on TDC haha.

 

 

To answer your 3rd hidden question: The cam is doweled and the sprocket has 3 holes on the back, so no, no need to mark it. Sorry must have answered when i was tired lol. You don't need to chock the cam chain or anything either since you are tearing it down, just drop it down the timing cover out of the way.

 

 

When you are tearing the motor down completely there isnt really anything major you have to do from memory. You just pull it apart.

[gav240z]

Thanks guys, yeah I was reading the How to rebuild your L-series book and it mentioned marking the cam sprocket in relation to the camshaft but now that you mention it I remember those dowels from other L-GATA motors I pulled apart years ago but never actually got the chance to rebuild...

 

It does mention that the order to undo the head bolts is important to reduce the chance of warpage so I'll do that, and marking the conrod and big end caps in relation to their position is important.

 

However I'm still on the fence as to weather or not I'll do a refresh (seems I'll need new pistons anyway - unless by some miracle it will come out without much damage), or build a warm L28.

 

I have L14 rods, LD28 crank, Triple Mikuni 44s and I'm thinking of using those, but I need to keep it all to a reasonable budget. I was thinking max $5k to rebuild and modify it.

 

But I won't get a head of myself yet, just take 1 step at a time. To be honest I'll be happy to put something together that works lol...

[gav240z]

Ok I wasn't going to post an update but now I will...

 

Tonight I remounted the engine on the stand using some pieces of pipe I picked up from Bunnings during the week. This means the engine doesn't lean on the stand in the same way and seems more securely mounted. Good for my toes .

 

I couldn't get a wheel / gear puller tool because Supercheap shut earlier on a Friday (for some reason Thursdays they are open till 8pm but tonight shut at 5:30pm - bummer).

 

So I basically took out the oil pump, and the timing / degree plate on the front chain cover. I also decided to remove the valve cover, well the bolts came off easy, but it was caked on pretty good to the engine head. I tried to persuade it with a rubber mallet but it wasn't budging. Silly me decided to whack the oil breather pipe and what do you know? It snapped off the valve cover. Oops! First thing I've broken so far working on the car so I guess not all bad right?

 

Looks like I can order it again if required.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/45228-valve-cover-vent-pipe-broken.html

 

I got a look under the valve cover though as I gently persuaded the cover off with the mallet and valve train was looking quite rusty (cam lobes were all covered in surface rust etc..) No evidence of a dropped valve though. Tomorrow hopefully the thing finally comes off...

 

With the valve cover, the thing is I actually have another quite rare valve cover from a 280zx, which says NISSAN. There were 2 versions of this cover, the rare version had the bigger NISSAN font used.

 

 

I started to polish that cover but I think instead of going for a shiny alloy finish I'm going to go for the red valve cover with the lettering and pinrstripe polished / raw alloy.

 

As seen on Eiji's car.

 

I found a few threads (and saw Alan T used VHT Grey Wrinkle finish on his 432-R replica) so I think VHT Red Wrinkle finish is the way to go.

http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/wrinkleplus/

More examples here:

http://www.build-threads.com/general-car-stuff/diyhow-to-wrinkle-texture-paint/

http://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/wrinklng-uim-1025154/page2/#post11403767

 

It should give me a look close to this, along with the Nissan blue engine block, some of those PCV hoses and Triple Mikuni carbs (maybe with blue anodised horns) it should look awesome in a gold engine bay:

 

I also like the black wrinkle finish but I can always change it if it turns out looking horrible or I just get bored.

[George]

First thing I've broken so far working on the car so I guess not all bad right?

 

 

Don't feel bad Gav, I've broken lots of things so far. Some on purpose and some by accident like my windscreen!

 

Keep the updates coming.

[CroS13]

Yeah happens to everyone, just try not to break expensive parts like i did! I had a bad moment this week, i was pulling down all my parts tubs from the roof, and i knocked one plastic tub, it fell down and of course my brand new starter motor and the alternator i rebuilt was in it,  starter motor smashed into 3 nice pieces on the garage floor. Well there goes $170 down the drain, awesome! Also broke the alternator, that was probably a good 5-6 hours worth of my time rebuilding it!

 

Well at least that gives me an excuse to change to an internally regulated alternator right? right?......

 

I contemplated going down that wrinkle paint finish for my rocker cover, but i was worried how it would hold up to the heat and elements long term, what it would end up looking like, hence why i had mine painted instead.

 

Rudolf.

[Brabham]

What does the original rocker cover have on it Gav? I reckon polish that up and maybe clear coat it and do a refresh on the L24. can always swap it if you have a warm L28 anyway:)

[gav240z]

Hey mate, it is just the Nissan OHC cover. I might polish it up as a spare. I bought some VHT wrinkle paint from eBay as I couldn't find it in stores guy at local auto store said they no longer make it. Not sure about that? Anyway apparently it is high temp paint. Although Sydney weather sucks today so can't paint and let dry in sun.

 

I don't have an L24 though. It is an L28 block with E31 head on it.

 

[Brabham]

Hot L28 it is then

[benny]

Hey mate, it is just the Nissan OHC cover. I might polish it up as a spare. I bought some VHT wrinkle paint from eBay as I couldn't find it in stores guy at local auto store said they no longer make it. Not sure about that? Anyway apparently it is high temp paint. Although Sydney weather sucks today so can't paint and let dry in sun.

 

I don't have an L24 though. It is an L28 block with E31 head on it.

 

 

sun alone wont do it.... you will need a heat gun or borrow your mummas extra wide oven.

[gav240z]

Got a heat gun so all good. I wouldn't mind an old toaster oven though for powder coating .

[gav240z]

So engine head is finally off.

 

But first what I broke the other day...

 

and engine mounts with new pipe pieces...

 

This was written on the back of the camshaft. It's an A-Grind cam. 22747 (in black sharpie ink).

 

 

Does that mean anything to anyone? Also worth mentioning is that the cam-sprocket was aligned with the dowel to the #2.

 

I also measured the exhaust and intake valve diameter

 

Exhaust = 33mm

Intake = 42mm

 

Based on what Nzeder posted here:

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,7769.msg73944.html#msg73944

 

It would appear I have the standard valve sizes for an L24 head  :'( - so it is maybe safe to assume this was no warm motor...

 

It also has dished pistons... 

 

Cam Lobes rusty.

 

For some reason cylinder head looks clean, as in no burnt on oil / film I usually see inside an engine head...

 

Anyway I bought a massive gear puller it was about $30 more than I expected to pay at $80 but it's massive.

 

And now the moment we have all been waiting for... the engine head removal...

 

Block Starting at #6 cylinder.

 

Block looking at #3 and #4

 

Block Looking at #2 and #3

 

Block looking at #1 and #2

 

You can tell #4 has had water in it, but I wasn't able to see any problems with the head gasket (with my limited head gasket analysis experience).

 

Now the engine head itself, which has the gasket stuck to it. #5 and #6.

 

#3 and #4

 

#2 and #3

 

#1 and #2

 

#1

 

So can anyone see where the head gasket failed? How did water get into #4? The gasket looks fine as far as I can tell... a corroded head perhaps?

 

Disappointed about the tiny valves (P.O must have been tightfisted with the build), I do have an N42 head in storage although it looks questionable. Lurch gave it to me years ago now.

 

Also what is the blueish residue on the intake valves?

 

The good news is I couldn't feel much ridge in the bores, not enough to get a fingernail under anyway. But we shall see what damage is incurred when the pistons come out.

 

Weird I can't see reason for failure yet. Hopefully you guys can shed some light?

 

[Linton]

Gav. given that most of the water ports appear blocked in the photo's it was probably just a blown head gasket at the time and an easy fix, the time sitting left with water in it has caused most of the damage the rust on the cam seized piston etc. clean the gasket off the face of the head and run a straight edge along it and you will probably find it is warped. unless it is important to you I would refit the other head and not spend any money on this one.

Linton

 

[gav240z]

Thanks Linton, yes I agree the head-gasket must have blown and not been fixed for some time which caused the rust and then subsequent seizure. I was expecting to find evidence of the blown gasket by looking at the head gasket but I couldn't see anything obvious on the underside or top side of the gasket (have already removed it).

 

Before I remove the pistons should I use a ridge reamer?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=79i-_-u3HzA

 

I am not sure I'll get them out without damage to the bore (especially in #4) and I'm not sure if I'll just do a simple refresh or go a bit more crazy with this motor build yet. But what are my chances of salvaging the pistons here?

 

With regard to the head itself, I only have sentimental value for it based on the fact that it was the head that it left the factory with (E31), but since the L24 block is gone I'm not going to get too caught up on that. My N42 is missing cam towers, camshaft and a couple of valves (think intake valves have been pinched) so weighing up my options right now.

[Linton]

could be difficult to diagnose the head looks ok in photo but they can crack dead centre between the valves , if you are going to reuse it get it tested for cracks (pressure tested) before you do any other work on it . no 4 piston will be the only one you should have trouble getting out put a cup of kero anything thats oily into the bore and let it soak, while it is wet use some fine wet and dry on the bore by hand to remove surface rust to help it slide out easier, you said there was very little ridge so no need for ridge remover

[George]

Gav, are you planning on getting the car running prior to rust repairs / body tear-down?

[gav240z]

Gav, are you planning on getting the car running prior to rust repairs / body tear-down?

 

I haven't made any concrete decisions yet, but it's definitely a consideration. If not for any other reason than to provide me with motivation to finish it. . My metal work skills aren't there yet as you'd expect so working on Engine / mechanical stuff until I'm ready for the body etc..

[PB260Z]

I haven't made any concrete decisions yet, but it's definitely a consideration. If not for any other reason than to provide me with motivation to finish it. . My metal work skills aren't there yet as you'd expect so working on Engine / mechanical stuff until I'm ready for the body etc..

Getting it drivable to give you motivation sounds like a solid plan. Loss of interest has killed many a project car.  :'(

Have you considered just grabbing a running engine and tossing that in while you decide exactly what spec engine you want to build for her ?