aircobra

does anyone know where to get replacements from? have tried the usual, but no cigar will one of the standard profiles from clark rubber work?

have a set of windscreen trims to swap ( no corners or joiner)

the one that has 3 screws in in and bolts to the roof thanks

1.here's the frayed points wire https://www.flickr.com/photos/62957688@N08/35114419370/in/dateposted-public/ 2. the tacho sort of works, starts at 500 rpm and then just stumbles around the clock, so can't really tell what the idling speed is. so fuel - some - at bottom of the bowl which were tilted at 45 degrees spark - some - see #1 above does any one know which way the battery terminals are meant to be facing originally ? closest to the firewall or closest to the engine?

no, but you can make a small spacer to tilt the mounting angle slightly so it looks like factory

thanks to mad_z - what a life saver. ;D its amazing what running a fresh pair eyes does ok, these were the problems 1. the wire that runs from to the points inside the distributor was frayed and arcing - no idea how that happened 2. the points were bent and not contacting properly, so i picked up a $10 pair from repco, but amazingly they did not fit. we had to elongate the adjustment hole 3. got spark, but no start 4. then mad_z spotted that i had the bowls tilted 45 degrees - which i did not notice. so i swapped the rubber isolators from left to right. problem solved 5. now no fuel in the owl, so i filled them up direct 6. VROOM fires up first tick still something up with the pump, its not pulling thru as soon as there's air in the line also idling too high, even though all the screws are turned _out_ all the way next will have to get a timing light from somewhere

2x restored hitachi carbs set of qtr window frames - will need brackets replaced bonnet with new front repair sections for welding in PM if interested

got 240 cards but they need recovering

thanks everyone for the replies ! 44014 - checked that mad_z - i'll pm you my details old-retired - its fine, i've bypassed everything and am runing the coil directly from the +terminal. there's a couple of threads on the resistor. while the engine is cranking, the resistor is bypassed

i'm totally stumped having had the engine working perfectly after the monumental 180 degree distributor shaft screw up ( if you;ve been following my thread) , i can't get it even to cough once. all i;ve done is mated up a new exhaust, but must have stuffed something up tried all the usual yes, fuel, yes spark, yes compression , yes timing, yes different coil ( just in case) i don';t think its diagnosable via the internet and i'm totally out of ideas for a slab of amber fluid of your choice ( or equivalent)- can someone drop by and help me out before i burn this car

i have paper ones

i've got one two screws at the back bolt onto a bracket at the rear of the console single screw holds the coin tray and bolts into a bracket about 30 cm close tot he front there's u shaped bracket bolted under the fusebox with speed nuts attached the holes you see at the front "wings" of the console have tow holes, which take sheetmetal screws that then go into the speednuts

need to move house, so $600 takes my REPCO rebuilt block, never used. Everything there bar the head. Have a look at my previous post for pics. On a custom stand so can be put into back of a car.

yes will upload phots tonite. i have kept the original skin ( lucky), but the bottom section is in poor condition. the rarespares skin looks to be made of much thicker metal, which is why i didn;t want to MIG them together

Hello, To cut a long story short, I tried fitting one of these to my door frame and in the process discovered that the skin is actually not quite right by about 5 mm. I followed Lurch;s tutorial and it was all good till i realised that the skin is not quite the exact shape There are plenty of stories as to how crap these are and I must have gotten the worst of them. From what I can tell, the problem is that the crimping around the edged is just slightly off. So the crimp needs to be straightened, and rebent so that the frame slides in with the correct offsets. This is beyond my level of skill and tools Can anyone do this for some $s or know a panel beater who can do this ? the one i use is not up to this task Rob at the zfactory, has confirmed that they're crap skins and he doesn't use them for that reason much appreciated

why bother with plated ones? you can see how exposed that corner is to the weather. just bad nissan engineering, saving 50c ( or less) on a bracket

ended up buy $5 stainless brackets from bunings, then tapping some holes in them , some stainless countersunk screws. a bit of bending ... job done

yep, i had to replace the lower front corner brackets with stainless brackets screwed into the stainless steel trim. mosture accumulates in this section and it will eventually go. factory used black sealant in the corners of the frame only. check that both lips are tight against the body

no idea, i had mine recored and i think it cost me $250, if this is a tight month, i can hold on to it for a bit

this guy http://www.thezstore.com/store/graphics/00000001/large403401B.jpg been all over the net - it sayd brake fluid, oven cleaner, muric acid, etc. tried oven cleaner - didn't work and brake fluid apparently damages the plastic any ideas?

come and grab them

excellent, as far as i can tell. no evidence of leaks or corrosion

of course Jaguar just did the same thing with some "reproduction" E-types . That worked a lot better then the Z effort. Of course it helped the economics that they sold for a cool US $1m each, and they all sold

do the strut tops have a cardboard template or is the vynil just stretched tight? http://playtoysclassiccars.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/5895-Interior-Hatch.jpg i had to remake the cardboard around the strut props

for the pillar vynil, is it meant to wrap around the panel join, with the rubber seal going over the top? or do i jut cut it short? http://s536.photobucket.com/user/gmac708/media/240Z/2012-08-15184436.jpg.html can;t tell from this photo