aircobra

this is the closest description to my one unfortuntely the guys does not describe how he fixes it http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/41234-incorrect-dist-oil-pump-shaft/

can you send me some pics pls?

http://www.jrdemers.com/280ZX/distributor/shaft.gif note 280, not 240

i don;t think so - see comments above. the shaft is one piece with the slots and bevels cut it into it. or at least that's what i remember

same design - and the same brand as on my photos 1. the shaft has a bevel on it - so it looks like the letter "D" from the top 2. the metal spring in the photo simply keeps the rotor against the shaft. the flat protrusion then slides into the bevelled section of the shaft. only goes on one way. i went to burson and the bosch replacement has a different design, but also goes one way . the same way can anyone identify the distributor ? the only difference between stock 240 and my one seems to be that the condenser is on the inside, not outside the only remaining questions is - what side of the shaft is the bottom slot cut? there are only 2 options as you look at the bottom of the shaft a. the small halfmoon is on the SAME side as the bevel eg the flat side of the "D" b. it is on the OPPOSITE side

and i'm struggling with my timing. see the saga here http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/14493-double-checking-the-timing-on-my-l24-rebuild/

i could - but i want to know where i f,,,ked up or if i have the wrong parts here's pics of the distributor https://www.flickr.com/photos/62957688@N08/33811880656/in/dateposted-public/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/62957688@N08/33723258511/in/dateposted-public/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/62957688@N08/33811839986/in/dateposted-public/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/62957688@N08/33468282260/in/dateposted-public/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/62957688@N08/33009362814/in/dateposted-public/ and here's lobes proving TDC https://www.flickr.com/photos/62957688@N08/33009400924/in/dateposted-public/

point is - regardless of whether the timing is right or wrong, if the small halfmoon is facing the front, the bloody rotor should do the same - both slots are machined onto the same shaft !!! and this is my problem

all the photos above are from my car right now 1. crank is spot on - its just the photo because the plate wth he degrees is slightly to the left of where i stuck in the camera when i took the shot 2. i stuck a screw driver in the plug hole to make sure its TDC 3. the cam lobes are up 4. half moon is exactly how it is the photo - eg small side of the half moon to the front . the photo is from my car 5. the button definitely points to the right - as per photo the only to fix as far as i can tell is to drop the oil pump and rotate the shaft 180 so the big side of the halfmoon is facing the front, but that would be contrary to every manual and doesn;t strike me as a good idea i'm enclosing a photo of the rotor, just in case - it only goes on one way both the distributor and the shaft came from a non-running L28 ( which is why i'm suspicious), the pump is brand new do you have a spare dizzy to see how the rotor aligns to the slot in the shaft

you can just see black texta mark on the distributor photo. so its out 160 deg

ok, engine TDC (#1 piston, you can jsut see it) https://www.flickr.com/photos/62957688@N08/33004383124/in/dateposted-public/ check sprocket https://www.flickr.com/photos/62957688@N08/33806777606/in/dateposted-public/ check pulley https://www.flickr.com/photos/62957688@N08/33463346350/in/dateposted-public/ check but goddamit, you're right, the distributor is 180 deg out https://www.flickr.com/photos/62957688@N08/33806750906/in/dateposted-public/ tang https://www.flickr.com/photos/62957688@N08/33806689226/in/dateposted-public/ close enough - and the small half moon is facing the front - as per fsm i think i have a L28 distributor and the long shaft, but its supposed to be identical what is going on? i had a look at the distributor and you can't really assemble it incorrectly - the slot is cur directly onto the shaft as is the arm notch no wonder it was backfiring !

ok, a year later its all connected, fuel's up and it doesn;t work spark is there, but it just backfires on the last 2 cylinders. i'll have to take the covers off and check it all again

ps. the horn relay has a couple of labels on S, B and H by the looks of it. which wire goes to what terminal? doesn't say anythingm in the fsm

not sure, maybe someone swapped it over. however if you look at the circuit, there's definitely there for some versions. i'm not sure why there's 2 of them - one for each side? someone must know this

ok, the colors match. i think this is the twin passing relay circuit - the colors match. since my relays are missing, i'll have to use the generic 4 post black ones

do they look like this? http://i44.tinypic.com/309t1dy.jpg http://i39.tinypic.com/2zhk2ft.jpg these are wires from my car https://www.flickr.com/photos/62957688@N08/33655995252/in/dateposted-public/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/62957688@N08/33682907041/in/dateposted-public/

ended up getting the inline tool, since have to do redo 25% of my lines as they're weeping https://atdtools.com/images/pics/ATD-5480_action.jpg

did bit more digging . different versions of the S30 manual show Out of standard manual 1. standard - 2 Passing relays 2. US and CANADA - NO passing relays Out of the "supplement" 1. EARLY basic version for US - one relay 2. LATE basic version for us - NO passing relays All shows "ACC" relay - in between the defroster switch and the glass. This must be under the dashboard somewhere Not clear on the logic here at all - sounds like there are variations on the years and the geographies is the logic that some countries use their headlights more than other?

just working on more wiring and looking at the FSM (BE section), it shows a pair of "passing relays" in line just after the light switch. all the threads say that the headlights are wired directly from the switch, so the wiring goes from the switch to the fusebox. is this a year-specific mod that appeared in the later cars eg '72 on? i'm looking at the FSM that says "S30" on the cover

does anyone have one of them? what are the dimensions?

i was lucky enough to score NOS exhaust pipes from header back ( including nichira resonator), but not the muffler. after scouring the net, in concluded that it is a round muffler, with a center inlet and weird offset outlet that then has tailpipe that comes back to the centre. i found that reback mufflers make a bunch of generic mufflerz, so i bought a 336L from truefit in moorabbin ($100), which is a 16 inch muffler with dual offsets. and it doesn't fit. looks like a need a centre/offset one that is a bit smaller, the question is:does anyone know what size will fit?

no good for me then, i have the stndard cast iron manifold and the 4 into 1 .... bummer

interested. is it welded together or will it come apart? is from the manifold back or are there extractors in there? is more noisy that stock?

i got these http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/40-2691 the only other option is to buy the foam blocks and carve with the foam saw. doubt you would get it as correct as this