aircobra

send me your # and i ll send the photos

does anyone have this . i think i'll just stick in the latest blutooth set, cause i can;t find any reasonably priced radios

is the fuel tank strap held by 2 nuts per side? is that so you can control the tension on straps. are you sure about that? my one only had one nut per strap

i am sure its easier the 2nd time around

thanks all for your help - if there was a virtual beer, i would buy a round this is how the saga ended last nite ( post mounting first hinge and first bar) i ended up using a "d" shackle to steady the bottom of rod into the recepticle where it would go once in place eg parallel to the bottom bar sat down in from of the car and using my bare hands rotated the rod using a weightlifting squat type of a manouver, while pushing the hinge backwards and down to meet the rod slipped into the opening and bob's your uncle you definitely needs hands and arms of steel to do it this way. i was jiggling around with straps, rope , jimmy bars, vice grips, etc and then i saw jesus 3rd worst job of the restoration

left over from my build. for front and rear suspension arms. don;t need to be pressed in like the rubber ones,

maybe like this https://www.bunnings.com.au/trojan-600mm-wrecking-bar_p5610097

ok, got the hinges in and one rod - by combination of using my knees, hands and some rubber blocks. scratches EVERYONE, so much unhappiness all round. now, no way i can stick it the 2nd rod by hand or with a screwdriver - has to be rotated 180 degrees also. i was thinking of using a long crowar and using some ubolts to hold the rod in place, then i can lever it in surely someone has rigged SOMETHING for this?

gav, are you saying that its easier to put the bonnet on first and THEN do the rods?

got it, i'll give it a shot tonite. ifyou have a look at my photos, you can see i have replaced the wife with sticky tape (ho ho ho, that's a cracker, don't pass that pearler to just anyone). may have to use a torque wrench or something to twist the hinge. the screwdriver picture in the fms spins me out as the most useless photo ever

did you say you can completely assemble it off the car first and then mount it? can i bring these around to your place for assmebly so that i can bolt them on? completely stumpted

https://www.flickr.com/photos/62957688@N08/32741677620/in/dateposted-public/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/62957688@N08/32967562652/in/dateposted-public/ the bottom rod is nearly 180 degrees out - i can't twist it that far

https://www.flickr.com/photos/62957688@N08/33082377686/in/dateposted-public/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/62957688@N08/32308432813/in/dateposted-public/

not the same as 240, different holes and diff length shaft, although if u're pressed, the arm with the gear teeth looks the same

has been taken apart for inspection, the gears are in perfect order. not sure if its right or left side. best offer

you do make it sound easy, i see you;re in melb, do you mind if i grab your phone #, so i can send you a couple of photos so 1. bolt up one hinge, insert one rod with the round head in the hinge 2. insert 90 deg bend into the other hing and insert the bottom front 3. use large screwdriver to spin hinge approx 90 degrees. now. here's where i'm losing you a. complete the rotation, insert 2 other bolts and then insert the other ord OR b, insert 2nd rod and complete the rotation

so front bottom bolt? how many degrees does it have to rotate? so push in both rods into the hinge which is bolted in?

been all over the internet, all i can find is the photos of the hinges already with the rods. i have worked out how they go into the hinges, but not how to put tension in them there are a couple of posts that suggest that you bolt in the hinges and then stick in the rods , but there are out by at least 90 degrees, so they need to be rotated the FSM has a photo of a guy with a screwdriver - and that's it!!! can someone pls help before i torch this whole bloody car ;-(

actually this one looks the same http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/8-Ratchet-Crimping-Plier-Non-insulated-tabs-and-receptacles-AWG-22-14-HS-11011/291513090409?rt=nc&_soffid=200&_soffType=SaleAndClearence&_trksid=p5731.m3795

like this one? http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/SCA-Crimping-Tool-Non-Insulated-Terminals/343114

ended up hydroblasting them and just an epoxy clear coat. look pretty contemporary

for these wheels http://www.zcarsource.com/uimages/product_photos/wheels/2460218a.jpg don't know of the "cross" alloys have same centres let me know what you have and how much you're looking for

just about to start work and getting most bits from the vintageconnectors.com he sells a crimping tool for $35 US, but there are plenty of others on ebay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271838564389?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT does anyone know if will this do the job? need to do the bullets and the spades also, will i need to lengthen each wire that i do, since chopping off the bullets loses 2 cm per wire? thank you

or here http://s1102.photobucket.com/user/katokid/media/P1030815.jpg.html that's katokid's M3 powered car. what an insane puppy

you must be going thru the same stage as me then? i can't see ANYWHERE where it would attach to the tunnel. There are two brackets on the tunnel - one for the fusebix, one for somethign else http://240z.drago.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_3567.jpg