aircobra

is there option for me to buy this and replace electronic bits with my existing points http://www.ebay.com/itm/Distributor-Electronic-Cardone-31-617-Reman-fits-75-76-Nissan-280Z-2-8L-L6-/121658434487?fits=Make%3ADatsun%7CModel%3A280Z&epid=76725910&hash=item1c536863b7:m:mKEdlgV_8uToSh7GD3O-DGQ&vxp=mtr

not fussed on the mech. points, that's what there at the moment. are you saying that if i convert to el.points, shaft wear won;t cause problems?

so they're just plain bushes originally, not bearings? does the shaft itself wear out? how did you press them out?

i think i worked why a set of standard points would not fit in my distributor - it is because of the play in the shaft has anyone replaced the bushes /bearings in one of these? i can't find anything on the net

no leads on this? anyone?

took apart the starter motor while I have the box out to have a look at the brushes and this fell out https://www.flickr.com/photos/62957688@N08/36080100204/in/dateposted-public/ this is the starter motor. i think its an original hitachi, but i'm not sure https://www.flickr.com/photos/62957688@N08/36517694960/in/dateposted-public/ does anyone know where its supposed to fit in?

gee, looks in great shape - rails, rad, batt tray all good i did some of mine with a heat gun and some with a wirewheel on a grinder a day's work once you get the technique right from memory, cheapest quotes for garnet i had was 2.5K + towing

went to repco and the locite version is twice the price for the same specs!!! http://www.loctite.com.au/3320_AUE_HTML.htm?nodeid=8802627420161&msdsLanguage=EN_AU&selectedTab=technical http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Permatex-Ultra-Copper-RTV-Silicone-Gasket-Maker-Maximum-Temperature-85g/114976

the story is that i have a NOS exhaust pipe, but have had to get an aftermarket muffler. the size doesn't quite match but about 3mms. the bloke at truefit expanded the pipe with one of these hydraulic jaws. he then and said to use the permatex high temp grey silicone, but either this one http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/CRC-Maniseal-Exhaust-Cement-Brown-145g/1449 http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Permatex-Ultra-Copper-RTV-Silicone-Gasket-Maker-Maximum-Temperature-85g/114976 anyone used any of them? the joint is going to be secured by a standard u-clamp. i'm thinking that the silcone based paste will a bit more flexible, whereas the other paste dries rock hard and may crumble

got it out last nite after the jack arrived. wasnt that hard, the biggest issue was jacking up the car high enough, you need 50 cm clearance just had a horrible thought -maybe its not the gearbox at all, could it be that i mismatched the clutch and the release bearing and that's where the noise is coming from?

.. so far 1. lurch has come up with a great offer 2. stewart wilkins can get me a full rebuilt kit for $140 ( bearings + seals) 3. bloke in north melbourne can do a fixed price re-race for $800 + sychros, if required .. just waiting for the jack to arrive i have cranked up the car stands to the top notch, apparently you need 45 cm to clear the box

jeezzus, i don't mind spending the $200. bigger hassle is getting the suspension bolts torqued. see the suspension forum

generic system, looks the same https://www.ultimatepowersteering.com.au/categories/electric-power-steering/epas-systems/epas-kits or this at 1.5 k US http://zpowersteering.com/

600z - has anyone else on the forum had this installed? gotta say it look a better idea than the hydraulic units, unless the zx rack fits. which reading this thread it doesn't

yep, got all that planned, last time a stuck a rubber glove over the opening and that worked ended up ordering this - i like how its nice and low http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TRANSMISSION-GEARBOX-TROLLEY-JACK-0-5TON-500KG-ADAPTOR-TRUCK-BRAND-NEW/112496337234?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2750.l2649

as i read the FSM manual, it states - Torque the suspension with 2 passengers and fuel ( page #6 of the RA section) 1. rear traverse link inner bolt ( the one with the big special nut) at 110 lbs #61 here https://zcardepot.com/image/cache/data/200-657-2-900x900.jpg http://www.thezstore.com/store/graphics/00000001/large141434R.jpg 2. front traverse link bushing http://www.thezstore.com/store/graphics/00000001/large234211.jpg page#17 in the FSM traverse link mounting bolt - 94 lbs and the brackets ( called "front diff mount member installation nut") at 31? problem is 1. i can't make out what's supposed to rotate? are the washer supposed to clamp down the bushes so they simply twist and not rotate? 2. this are pretty large torque #s and i can hardly get under the car with a torque wrench. how the hell do people do this? am i supposed to buy car stands just for this ? thanks in advance - at the moment, when i press on the rear of the car, i just hear rubber squeaking, which tell me that the rubber bushes are rotating somewhere

as free as it gets

Couple of repairs, but cardboard is OK. Covered with disgusting black carpet at the moment Best offer in Melb

so my rebuild choices so far are Lurch or Lou Mondello?

don;t have any helpers. more worried about getting it back on

as per the "chuggin" thread, it sounds like some the main bearing is gone. so the tranny its coming out i never removed a box by itself before, but i do know from bolting it up to the block that its a pretty heavy piece of machinery this guy has a good write up http://www.biopatent.com/tranny.html now, all have a is a cheapo supercheap trolley jack http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/SCA-Hydraulic-Trolley-Jack-1400kg/215072 and the last tranny i did was off a Fiat 126. Balancing a tranny on a jack is not my idea of fun at all so i figure the choice are 1. get this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/112496337234and spend the $200. will probably never ever use it again 2. get this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Transmission-Jack-Adapter-Trolley-Jack-Gearbox-Adaptor-suits-most-garage-jacks-/232158346013?hash=item360db73b1d:g:ax0AAOSwxk9ZlnWY but even though the write up says "suit any jack", not sure it would fit Question ONE is: has anyone tried the adapter Question TWO is: does anyone have a loaner on Melb metro?

got the dovertail, but when assembling the lock realised that my homemade "from bunnings" spring was too weak to hold the door button rod so i had to make up a couple of nifty coil springs. i'll put up a quick tutorial in the interior section when i went for a quick spin around the block, the gearbox diagnosis was confirmed - it grumbles and whines throughout all the gear, so the current suspect is the main input bearing. waiting on prices from warren potter for a bearing set and looks like this sunday will be spend pulling out the box bummer since i had everything out, but on the other had, could not have known that the box was bad prior since you could only diagnose this one the car is mobile

grill assembled and mounted seatbelts in ( thanks luke240 for the HEMCO tip on the belts) just waiting for carpets from rob at z factory and have been for 3 months., keeps on saying any day now electrics finished, had to disassemble and clean up the light switch, but the relays are now all good. now i know that the 2x relays on the sides are - they are for the high beam flasher at the end of the stalk. just waiting on a door dovetail from warren z to line up the drivers door

i got EXACLTY the same problem , as soon as I press the clutch - all the noise goes so must be the front bearing, as per lurch's diagnostics. no other problems with box, no leaks, had new throw bearing fitted couple of questions: 1. does anyone in melb do the rebuilds? prefer not to use warren, heard a few bad vibes 2. is this kit i need to get and does someone sell it locally? https://zcardepot.com/driveline/transmission/manual/5-speed-transmission-rebuild-kit-280z-280zx.html

the whole assembly