phillay

hey six shooter, do you know what is the plastic material called?

interesting... i might have a crack at this next weekend I didn't know the material is called masonite.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Fairlday-Z-Datsun-240Z-JDM-RHD-Genuine-Nissan-Floor-Mat-Set-607-/380941091447?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58b1dbc277 some nice floor mats (OEM)

im going to inspect the datsun 1000 tomorrow, I hope I don't buy it :-\

hi do you have a distibutor?

I reckon the bumps (grip-back bit) of the wheel is the plastic material the post is referring to. And the front of the wheel is wooden. Mine was shiny and I too didn't sand it all the way back to keep the character of the wood, it's never going to be perfect and uniform and i dont think it was from the factory anyways.

I'll take this for 50 pick up if the bloke above doesn't want it. cheers Phil

I need to do that to my horn pad, I wonder what it would look like if the centre spokes is in a brushed metal finish

get some deoxit contact cleaner from jaycar and clean all the contacts and stuff in the switch.

hi guys, looking for a rocker arm and lash pad, in good nick or new would be good, any directions where to get them locally would be good as well. thanks Phil

All the miniwax stuff were from Masters, i used the bucket as a stand when spraying the urethane because it said on the can it was self levelling the bucket was the rofht soze when the steering wheel was facing down letting me spray the urethane without holding it. I guess if you had it hanging by the spokes you wouldn't need a bucket. I fund it quite hard to spray the inside of the wheel rim so be patient and keep spraying it in short burst. Alternatively there is the non spraying version, it's in a can and it's a few dollars cheaper, some might be more comfortable with applying with a brush. They are available at Masters in clear gloss, semi clear gloass and clear satin.

It is quite time consuming, but the results are satisfying. I was considering selling the wheel before this to buy a wooden nardi, but i much prefer th factory wheel after this.

updated with more pics

The miniwax stuff was from masters, theres a colour board that gives you an idea what it will turn out, they have all the colours above. I think the earlier steering wheel would be easier to do because it doesn't have holes. Have fun guys

hey guys 29/06/14 - Update, I've updated with some pics for the result clear coat and wax. as well as tips for other DIY'er My steering wheel was a bit faded so I decided to give it a bit of a clean, it's nearly done I just need to buy a can of clear coat and give it a buff. Stuff I need/purchased for this (all from masters): 1 sheet 400grit paper - 90cents (i just bought this because I ranned out at home) 1 sheet 800 grit paper - 90cents 1 sheet 1200grit paper - 90cents 1 paint brush 25mm - $1 1 sponge brush ? had it at home 1 can of miniwax wood paint - $11 1 can of miniwax quick dry urethane - $14 masking tape - had this at home i think it's a few $ tips: be careful when you peel masking tape as it could take off the paint i learnt this the hard way lol. make sure you tape the steering wheel run your finger nail along the edge, expensive blue tape was good for this the spray on urethane self levels but i found it much harder than spraying colour paint as you couldn't really tell how thick it was so best to apply a few coats, i did 4 in total, with 20min wait for each layer, this must be done within 2 hours as instructed on the can i used a bucket as a stand when I was spraying on the clear coat first i took out the steering, just a nut gave it a wiggle and it came off, then with 800grit sand paper I gave the whole thing a quick rub to get rid of the old paint and smooth it out a bit after a wash I taped up the wooden bit to paint the centre satin black hanging out waiting for the paint to dry I did 3 coats, this is how it looked I liked the sample colour so I got this after the first coat I realised I put the stain on a bit too thick had to really sand it down first lightly with 400 grit paper, then 800 then 1200, and I applied the stain with a sponge brush this time really lightly, ok i lied my wife did it for me she's good with arts and craft stuff. the above pic was the result, I might give it a rub down with some fine steel wool, it's pretty good at the moment, but I will give it another coat before spraying it down with a clear coat. I waited overnight to spray on a clear coat, this was the stuff I used and the bucket was a stand first layer when wet, I could tell it wasn't enough as there were areas where it wasn't as smooth so a few more coats 3 hours after 3 coats close up after 18 hours, poor light so pics don't do it justice it's really new and clean and smooth, I really like the finish of the urethane spray. I rubbed a bit of furniture wax final product with my 280z horn pad now in car

yes there is a piece that goes over the tunnel and the boot floor, it covers the tool box and the spare wheel well, it doesn't have the vertical bit that's behind the seats

i ordered carpets from all car carpets, took i think about 3 weeks pretty good, i've installed them in my car, they don't have the bits that cover the rear strut towers, not sure if other kits have them. the fitment is good but you will be required to do some cutting to get around the seat mounts, my kit was for the 240z

Thanks guys, I'm looking at taking apart the carbs and rebuilding them at the same time as cleaning them.where can i get the kit in Australia? I see one seller on ebay, or would it be better to just take the lot to a specialist

Hi dimi yes I have tried shorting the wire loom side, no lights but for some reason theres continuity thats why I think it has short itself somewhere. The circuit seems simple enough but for some reason im unable to easily traceable. If the wiring is broken I guess I will need to run a new wire by intercepting the red/black wires at each tail light plug anf go from there?

hi guys my head is a bit messed up so I am going to do a brain dump hoping someone could help. I am chasing the last electrical problem that I have with my 240z, it's giving me the shivers, but I think I am really close so I am going to try and push on and not take it to the auto electrician (yet). My reverse light doesn't work, I got a new reverse switch hoping it would fix it, no it didn't the strange thing is that I did a continuity test on the 2 wires on the existing switch (there are 2 switches, one has no wires on it, it's close to the prop shaft - i think this is a neutral switch, and one switch has 2 wire closer to the bellhousing - I am sure this is the reverse light switch). anyways back to the test, so I did a continuity test and my meter beeped. I am not sure why it's even beeping, as I followed the wire back into the cabin and one of the wire is cut off... must be shorting? I can not find the other snapped end, there are a few other loose wires which I don't know what they do, I've played around and no success so far. I've managed to get everything else working on the z so far so I am quite familiar with how most things work and what colour wire does what. here are a few things related to the reverse lights I know: 1) From the wiring diagrams I've looked at, the reverse lights draws it's power from the wiper fuse. my wipers work, so there is power at the fuse so the power source is there (assuming the reverse switch is correctly wired to this). 2) I've tested the earth from the bulb socket to the harness (it's shared with the tail lights) there is continuity there so that's all good. 3) all globes have been changed. 4) the power wire for the reverse light is red/blk and at the harness loom changes to red/blue - i think this is also a common wire colour used for power on my car's wire loom? so what do you guys think I should do? 1) just run a new wire from the reverse lights to the switch and then from the switch to the wiper fuse? (is it as simple as it sounds?) 2) pull out the dash, unplug the 3 big loom harness plugs look for the reverse light wires and go from there? (there is probably just a simple break somewhere under the steering column?) sorry for the big and messy post, any help is appreciated. regards, Phil

that guy is a vw nut

Thanks mate, i pm'd ben on the forum and asked him before i went to get it. I think he still has one more? He don't have arear spoiler in fiberglass but it was a blessing in disguise as soon as i returned to melb a friend had one for sale cheap

Pics of nardi??

not much work being done, been really sick, I had some rust patched up on the floor pan, it's alot stronger now. Waiting for a reverse switch if anyone could point me to somewhere in australia before I get one from thailand ebay. I had removed the valance because the wheel was rubbing, went to sydney on the weekend and dropped by otomoto to get a kameari lip, had it painted satin black for now and fitted it on. The fitment is perfect, I just gotta repair my indicator and it's all good to go, it feels a bit soft so I might need to figure out some sort of reinforcing on the back of the lip. went for a drive today because it's a nice day and I am currently not working, feels great/ picked up a cheap boot spoiler as well, gave it a quick sand and rattle can sprayed it for now. need a badge to go on the boot spoiler

I'll take it only if no one else above wants it