phillay
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Everything posted by phillay
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I did a search, only found stuff about using honda motors as an alternative, my motor is working (although a bit slow). Nothing about how to fix it, would be good just fixing it. I sprayed mine in WD 40. but it looks ruined. The seal is missing on the seized spinning thing
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hey guys looking for wiper linkages for 240z seems mines seized due to rust. prefer vic so I can just pick them up. cheers Phil
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Cars For Sale (3rd Party Sites) Ebay, Carsales etc..
phillay replied to gav240z's topic in Cars For Sale
someone selling my twin http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/elizabeth-east/cars-vans-utes/1976-datsun-260z-coupe/1035215901?utm_source=criteo&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=ActivePlus-automotive&mpch=ads -
cros13 makes a good point, I haven't started on cleaning the contacts but I did went and buy the deoxit and left it there because I was too sick this weekend to do any substantial work on the smurf. Although i was sick i did get up to testing the wiper switch and plug and I can report that my switch is working correctly. there is resistance at the plug but the plug has a chipped corner and it's going to require unpinning the plug and putting a new one in. not sure if that counts as recondition. discovered my wiper motor has 6 wires I think it's been changed before. I will do a proper update in a week
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hey mossy can i buy that recaro shirt without the springs
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I will post up what I get done this weekend when I clean out all the plugs and sockets. I've been using a dremel with a wire brush head and air flow meter cleaner spray but I find that it does leave a whitish finish on copper, I am going to grab a can of Deoxit contact cleaner http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=NS1434&w=deoxit&form=KEYWORD and try that stuff out.
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I did have a loom at the loom and it's in pretty good nick, the part number tag from nissan is still on it although the writing is a bit faded it can still be read. I am going to buy a can of OXdeit from jaycar on the weekend and give each plug a good spray to clean it out. I don't really mind cleaning and dremel'in the plugs. it gives me a satisfaction when its all done
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yes that is correct I live in Cairnlea regarding the colour at first I thought it was horrible but it kinda grew on me, I quite like it. yep lurch is good, I need to get the floors cut out and redone. it will go there if he is not busy.
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continuing the first post... now the lights work! but only the rear ones whilst looking for random stuff on gumtree i noticed a set of r type watanabes for sale, there was 2 ads, from the same seller a pair of 16x8.5 and 16x9.5 he wanted $1000 each pair they had brand new tyres and were only ever test fitted, the tyres were continentals something 255/40 and fronts were falkens 225/40. these were my dream wheels of all time and I contacted the seller and offered him a significantly lower price as I had a limited budget and he accepted, wow i was surprised, as it was interstate i was a bit weary but once i had spoken to him I realised he was also a member on this forum but has since sold his Z and moved on. he dropped them off at the courier depo and i had my wheels not long after. shipping was $100 with insurance woudl have been $50 without insurance. test fitted them at around the same time I also found an L28 off a 280zx for $50 but it was in QLD and he lived quite far from the city, I ended up getting a courier which costed $275 door to door. I found an engine stand that was used once for $40 and now this lives at my place. I plan to have a go at rebuilding what I could myself and farm out the stuff I can't do so continuing with the electrical stuff I took out the fuse box and polished all the terminals cause they were all cruddy, the middle one of the left column had some heat warpage but looks to be ok. my park lights weren't working and I found out why when I couldn't work on it cause there was no light or I was over looking at the wiring diagram i was working on the relay harness for the headlight and parklights I also cleaned these panels and primed them. I painted them a satin black colour also did it with the grills the wheel seller gave me a set of flares as he wasabout to throw them away I test fitted these and I like the look so I just ordered some rivnuts and rubber seals to get ready to cut up the flares. I have a list of things to do and once they are done I will get an rwc and get club plates.
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hey guys I've join the forum since August last year and I thought maybe it's time to put my build thread up here to keep a diary of the work I've done on my z. Things to do that are outstanding to get to club rego (phase 1): New brake switch Make Switch panel and move fan switch Install relay harness'es Convert to H4 New ignition switch get wipers working it's gonna be a long post so please bare with me. I acquired my z through a swap mid last year I had this car for a while swapped it for this after some paperwork, took it back to my mates workshop for storage away from the harmful rain the car wouldn't start, I've never played with carbies before so Lurch helped out and it fired into life. but it still has a loud tap, im thinking that the rocker arm is stuffed, will look into it later, I can live with it [video=youtube;h0LdFBrWx68] whilst in storage, I collected parts as I see them for sale for cheap. picked this one up, it;s a set of triples 40mm, although I wanted 44mm these were $600 delivered, I thought it would be enough for me. after a while in storage my mate had some time and he gave the smurf i quick check, and told me the brakes were not working, so he ordered in some rebuild kits and I was off rebuilding the cylinders and calipers at his place, it was good because if I needed help he would be there, but it was quite simple and striaght forward, for $6 a pair it was cheap and was a fun learning experience. I had some spare time at work so I printed the FSM park of the brake system repair was to also replace this lots of white stuff in the booster, might look at getting a new one to replace this. not very clear but the plastic wrapper has a new master cylinder, it costed me $70 (i get stuff at cost price for my mate - god bless him) after that was done and got the final ok from my mate from a safety point of view, he allowed me to take the smurf home so I could continue on with the minor work from my garage and also for me to have a peek every now and then to remind me of the smurf is under my roof, although my mate prefers the smurf to be at his place he loves the car and misses it. garage needs a clean (ps has been clean since) some of the rest of the pictures are ones I've already posted on my eletrical woes thread, but I would like to post them here to tell the whole story. so after a few months of storage I decided to do some electrical work, having done all the stuff on the S13 on my own I was ok with the basics like cutting and soildering etc. first thing on the agenda was to clean the indicator stalk, it doesn't go up or down. so I took it out and it looked quite old, i decided to polish it with a dremel and also take out each of the screws to clean out thje contacts with some air flow meter cleaning stuff i had lying around. all new now and you can hear it click when you push it up and down
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Datsun 240/260/280Z model chart poster
phillay replied to AndrewCarGuy's topic in General Discussions
that's so cool, if you don't mind do you have a hi res one so I can put it as my desktop (the z poster) -
park lights and brake lights always on and other eletrical issues
phillay replied to phillay's topic in Electrical systems
I would have thought the hazards would be wired to the indicators as well, that would be interesting because there are i think 3 extra wires PIC1- this is the end that goes to the from the loom, the yellow wire is disconnected from the main loom. It seems that it snapped off, the PO has for some unknown reason have alot of these joins in the loom as well. it's like the plugs were replaced sometime like for like. At least the wires match so it's not too bad. But there are a few (3) wires that I have no idea where they go to, photo is pretty poor but it's on the right side with the heatshrink. Does anyone know what else would share this section of the loom. PIC1 pIC2 - this is the end that goes to the wiper motor, i hope the wiper motor is still ok. PIC2a other side PIC2b PIC3 - I also googled up that the relays I have unplugged one is the horn relay (3 pin) I might just rewire a new relay with a new horn instead of chasing up which wire it belongs to. It also gives me an excuse to get some airhorns But I also have this relay and it's the wiper intermittent relay.. it's currently unplugged and I don't know which of the spare plug goes into this. Are there also more relays? this was hanging loose under the dash wedged b/w some trim and carpet on the passenger side above the vent cable PIC3 -
hey mate, I am also interested in a kit as well. Let me know how you go with the carpet
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park lights and brake lights always on and other eletrical issues
phillay replied to phillay's topic in Electrical systems
hi dimi, if you could pop by for a quick look that would be great, I haven't really rewired anything haha the remaining problems I think I have are: wiper wiring (there is a 6 pin socket and only 5 pins are connected but there is a 8 wire loom) 2 relays needs to have wires accounted for (1 big relay with 10 pin and small with 3 pin - I suspect the 3 pin one is the horn which is also disconnected) task I have outstanding to get the my mate to have an RWC checks are: cut some aluminium and make a switch panel to house the fan switch knob (I've taken out the centre vent, map light, vent control and the panel out - I don't like it) need working blower to pass RWC put in H4 light and connect the relay looms I made. i also test fitted my flares on -
park lights and brake lights always on and other eletrical issues
phillay replied to phillay's topic in Electrical systems
thanks guys, going to move in to the next problem which is the wipers and also the issue of the missing relay wires should I start a new thread or continue on this thread? -
Thanks mate
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park lights and brake lights always on and other eletrical issues
phillay replied to phillay's topic in Electrical systems
Got the dash in without the heater fan controls, connected everything bar the brake switch. Stop light and park lights are now off... Lol. Ordering a new switch now, I tested the switch with a multimeter it seems to be constantly on I.e there is low resistance all the time and when you press in the plastic button there is no resistance I am not sure what is going on there. But I'm glad its working OK now. One good thing out of this exercise is that I now can take out and put in the dash quite fast. And also I've eliminated the CD player loom that was hacked into the wiring. I don't need music anyways . During the process of reconnecting what was logical I.e. sane colour wire/plugs I did have a few left over plugs and also the relay is now not connected I will post pics of my relays and cables in the afternoon. Cheers guys -
park lights and brake lights always on and other eletrical issues
phillay replied to phillay's topic in Electrical systems
Thanks mick The brake lights will not lit up if I stepped on the brake pedal when the ign barrel is set at off. Where is a good place in melb to get the dash redone. There are no cracks but between the gauge humps the vinyl has come off and is not sticking to the dash anymore. -
park lights and brake lights always on and other eletrical issues
phillay replied to phillay's topic in Electrical systems
Yes that's what I was after. Is there another way to test out if I've removed the switch from the loom? If I can't figure out the problem in a bit I might give it a rest and sand my flares and give thema coat of primer and paint. Where do you guys buy rubber gasket for the taillight and headlight buckets besides from the USA? -
park lights and brake lights always on and other eletrical issues
phillay replied to phillay's topic in Electrical systems
Prior to taking the dash out the brake lights never works until I had changed the fuse and globes. Once that was done they were permanently on along with the front park lights. But when the pedal was pressed the brake lights would lit up slightly brighter. If the car was in off position this would not happen. How do I test out the brake switch with a multi meter? I have a feeling my combo light switch could be the culprit. The loom looks in recall good shape and I am going to put the dash back in without connecting the heater blower loom. Also it seems there are about 3 pairs of blue/red wire loose close to the gauges. These wire are identical to the active and earth wires that powers the gauges. (Gauges already have wires) what else could they be used for? Would it be normal there are unused wires in the loom? -
park lights and brake lights always on and other eletrical issues
phillay replied to phillay's topic in Electrical systems
hey guys I did look at the brake switch it looked like shiver, but I don't think it would have shorted out not really sure. But I will be running a new wire, should I change it? I unscrewed it and it looked ok. I am located in Cairnlea. I only printed out the 1973 diagram I do have the others as well. The car is a manual one. My ignition switch has a strange problem Im not sure if it's relevant but when I turn the key to the lock position it would start the car halfway b'w off and lock I guess it's time to change the switch? heres a pic of the ign switch -
park lights and brake lights always on and other eletrical issues
phillay replied to phillay's topic in Electrical systems
Alrighty here goes: I've removed the dash and that was a mission in itself struggled to remove the heater control cables but in the end I got there with the help of my cousin. the wiring loom does not seem to be hacked as bad as I had thought. Although there are a few wires that's got my scratching my head as I've tried referencing this against the USA wiring diagram and it does not seem to appear on it. The wires that I can't figure out what they are for don't seem to be wires that have been put in by the PO so hence why I am making this post. Sorry for the crap pics - please help PIC1. I know the black and red separate wires may probably be for the glove box light (i don't have the actual light anymore) but what is the 4 pin plug for? it was wasn't connected and there isn't another one close by. PIC 1 PIC2 & PIC2a next wire I am not sure about is this wire that hangs off the fuse box, it's a blue/white wire I looked at it and its linked to the common fuse, from looking at the diagram it seems that its purpose is to power the cig socket - am i correct and if so I don't really need it so I could just leave it? PIC2 & PIC2a PIC3 This is the most concerning plug, I do not know where all these blue wires go to, I am pretty sure they were not connected to anything also that 3 pin plug with the funky adaptor that has a red wire which I think connects to a sub loom that connects the fan switch to the blower, is that how they are meant to be?I am pretty sure there wasn't a corresponding plug to the 3 pin plug as well. PIC3 PIC4 there are a group of plugs that are located right at the drivers side corner of the dash, they are ones that pass into the firewall, there are these 2 yellow / green wires which do not follow the diagram i am referencing, one of them is just snipped off and the other one has been crimped by the PO for some unknown reason. Does anyone know what the snipped wire does? PIC4 PIC5&5a Another wire from the group of loom plug at the firewall this one connects to nothing. PIC5 PIC5a PIC6 there are 2 loose wires in this pic that I counldn't trace, it is the yellow/green and red/blue wire (my thumb is kinda pointing to it) they don't seem to go anywhere, it's the other end of the plugs that is from the firewall PIC6 PIC7 this is a relay of some sort, the 6 pins on the right side of the plug (on this photo) has a plug so that's fine, but the left side of the relay with the 4 pins do not have a plug that are close by, what is it for? PIC7 thanks in advance and sorry for the long post and shocking pics. -
kerrigan this is the electrical systems area of the forum, hasn't your thought processing realise that this may not be the correct place to ask for a 240z parts source or is that how the thought processing works in the USA ;-)
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park lights and brake lights always on and other eletrical issues
phillay replied to phillay's topic in Electrical systems
Nar mate all good, I might as well remove dash and look at it properly -
park lights and brake lights always on and other eletrical issues
phillay replied to phillay's topic in Electrical systems
Unplugging wiper motor has not affected the lights, so the short is elsewhere. I think I might need to take the multi switch and see if the short is from there by opening up the contact switches and have a look see. On a good note I emailed he guy that made the headlight harness for msa and he write me a guide on how to make a relay harness for the park lights. I finish putting it together so I might install them in the car once my h4 arrives in the mail. I will have a go at switching the globe after work.
