phillay

Watanabe wheels are made.in japan

i travel to Uk often for work so I always stalk ebay UK for datsun parts saw this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NOS-NISSAN-DATSUN-WING-MIRROR-240Z-370Z-S30-B210-SUNNY-ETC-/291156919704?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43ca4e0598 but the seller doesn't have the other side and it doesn't have a part number, the mirror itself is actually round.

what were you getting up to for the police to give you a defect?

I saw a set of 15*12 AND 15*10 panasports on yahoo kapan not long ago for a reasonable price but not sure on how you would get tyres

get on to these guys to get your wheels widen http://www.whitehorseindustries.com.au/ there's also one that's opposite of them called eastern wheel works but they are more expensive. they are in lilydale

thanks stivva,your car is on another level I am taking alot of shortcuts just to get the car into a state where I can drive it, some days you just get over the whole thing lol and lately that's the feeling. anyways moving on, today was a really nice day in Melbourne. Instead of taking the boat out to port philip bay to fish I decided to have a go at fixing the horn as it never worked. So out comes the multi meter to perform continuity test to see if the current wiring is still good and not broken. Previously I already managed to identify the 3 horn wires and also the horn relay. there are 3 letters on the relay they are H S B, I thik they stand for H for Horn, B for battery and S for steering wheel im not sure so I will just refer them as their letters for now. so from the wiring diagram red/green wire to the 10amp fuse is for the horn. so I unplugged the plug and poked one of the multimeter probe thing in there and the other one to the B wire. meter showed resistance so all good. Next was to test the E wire, this was green and black, so I followed this through to the steering column, so 1 probe to the horn bit and one on the wire. nothing.. then I realised that there is this thin copper strip that's meant to touch the wheel so there is a connect between the button and the wiring. I had previously straighten this out when I cleaned up the combo switch. so out comes the switch and I just bend the copper strip into place. *pic place holder* I then proceed to test the thing and *bam* numbers appear so all good for the S wire. last one is the H wire. This one was very strange for me as I never found the same colour wire at the front of the car, the original horn was wired with a yellow and green wire which doesn't appear on the wiring diagram. I assumed this was simply connected somehow so I never really paid much attention to it. so hooking up a strand of wire to the probe as it wasn't long enough to reach from the relay to the horn I did the test and nothing came up. I was pretty pissed at this point and though fck hrmm.. what;s going on.. then I noticed a loose wire of the same colour as the one in the front and thought "no way".. note the yellow and green wire so I did the test and yep, so this wire was put in by the PO. so I go and hook everything up and press teh horn and now it works I replaced the old horns with these Fiam ones, they were $29 from autobarn, they sound pretty loud and look ok. **pic place holder** only thing left to get rwc is to get the reverse lights working, I might have a go at that next week if I recover from some minor surgery on Monday. meanwhile my carpets came in, I got them from allcar carpets, took 2 weeks, I will put them in once I get my floor pans replaced this is to happen on Monday I got them for $410 that includes floor mats currently the interior of the car looks like this I've taken a few things out getting ready for Monday, once that's done it will be cleaned up and painted black or something Other stuff I did was cleaning the mirror and giving it some black paint, it looks nice and smooth now before it was all cracked and was really ugly. Other minor thing that got done was the wipers, I got the motor working by replacing some wires, and also with the help of Alan (he sold me his spare stash of wiper arms)then replaced these with generic bosche ones, I am not really happy with them but I don't plan to use them (not driving in the rain)

I have one lol the rubber looks wonky compared to the manual.

so I drove my car around the block cause it's a nice day and i noticed that the idle wouldnt drop below 1500 once it's all warmed up have a closer look at the idle screw (i think?) and theres a gap if I push the rod to force it to close the gap it slows the motor down so it's not letting the whole thing retracted enough. also took a few photos and things look crooked, pretty sure this is not normal. any advice on how to fix this? I am thinking about taking the plunge and just take the whole thing apart and clean everything and replace whatever I could on the SU setup. But I just got out of a job to take a few weeks leave because I have to get surgery and I don't want to spend money if there is a cheaper fix for now. I also have a triple solex sitting in the shed so i am not sure if I should just rebuild that and chuck that on and get a whole new linkage set up. so one decision will cost me more upfront the other will probably (if there is a cheap fix?) be cheaper and will get me by for now I also need to find someone that knows how to do it in Melbourne

they go here

pics here, note where the cable tie is I had another closer look, the spring does seem to be returning the throttle right against the screw that sets idle, so it must be something else or the lube has finally done what it's suppose to do? I think I am missing these 2 nylon bushing

Yes su carbs. Cheers guys i will check when i get home. From my memory i don't think there is a spring where the firewall is...will check, thanks all. Really appreciating the help.

hi guys, I was driving my car to my mate's workshop and had noticed that the throttle didn't seem to return that well, i.e. I had to lift my gas pedal or the engine would still be revving at 1500 rpm, it was annoying to shift gears and downshifting. So I had a closer peek and noticed that at the first link/bracket on the firewall (sorry im at work will upload a pic as soon as I get home) it seems to be missing what I suspect is a nylon bush which would help the links move more smoothly and also it's missing some sort of a clip that would stop it from popping off the bracket entirely. So I put a cable tie on there temporarily, so I am now looking for parts to fix this issue. 1. so where do you guys find parts like this, are there alternatives (new) parts I could replace this with? 2. which other parts could affect the throttle from returning to it's idle (?) position when releasing the gas pedal? I know there is a return spring on the carb I gave it a spray with some silicon lub but it didn't seem to resolve the issue, maybe I need to replace it, if so can someone please provide some guidance on where I can source these parts? thanks Phil

hey guys im looking for a 280zx distributor, hoping to find one here before going to random wreckers to hunt for one cheers Phil

thanks dat2k & roberto this is exactly what I wanted to know, my alignment guy is really good and they only charge $50 for the work that many place would charge up to $200-250 in Melbourne (crazy money if you ask me for an alignment) , I was looking for a kameari style spoiler but still contemplating as it's not a priority, looks like I've just found the reason for me to buy one now Before I realised I had this scrubbing problem I was banging a mallet away on the hub trying to separate it from the brake rotors cause it was a bit seized not sure if this could have made it move a few mm? I doubt it as there is no play in the wheel hubs

Thanks mate i think tyres are 225/50. Going to see if any shops are open today. The wheels aren't extreme so maybe awn alignment could sort things out. What adjustments are available with the standard set up?

hi guys took my car for a test drive and I realised my left wheel is scrubbing against the panel that holds the left indicator/park light. This happens at about half lock. it pushes against the panel by about 2-3mm. The wheels I have on the front are 16 x 8.5 -6, car is not lowered. All front end suspension components is stock, tyres are 225/50 falken ziex. It seems that the left side has less clearance to the front bit of the car compared to the right, I double and triple checked the suspension arms and there looks to be no physical damage that I could see. It's really annoying, I am thinking that I might need to get the car wheel alignment done, just asking if this has happened to anyone and if so what was done to resolve the scrubbing. I was about to lower the car with springs as well. thanks Phil

the 2 clark rubber I've been to in my life they both had a wall of rubber strip products and there is a chart with about 40-50 varieties. They call them car guard liners, there are only 2 that would have suited one is about $18 per meter and one that is 8, the more expensive one wouldn't had suited for what we use on our cars. from the side it looks like this: O------------ the "O" is the part that sits above the flare

clark rubber, it's number 17, it cost $7 a meter

hi alan sorry I shoudl have let you know but I got carried away with some urgent things, I did receive the wipers on friday and had it installed, and my wipers now works great. Had installed new blades that I had purchased as well. thank you for your help I will update my project thread as soon as I had time. when comparing your wiper linkages to mine they were chalk and cheese, there was no way I could have got mine to the condition that yours were in.

damn i want this but I wouldn't be able to load and unload it. My inlaws are in cabramatta they would store it away for me but they don't have an engine crane

I'm up for a set of fiberglass to Melbourne 3023, would consider C/F pending price.

hi mate, cheers for the comments the flares have been attached on the car using nutserts. It took me a while because I was using some washers and a rachet to rivet them on the body

i'll take thwe compressor with the paint gum pm sent

hi nato, please add me to the list for a 240z radiator support panel (when you are ready) cheers

looks nice and shiny