CroS13

Awesome video's mate, so far I've watched about 4 of them driving alpine way. Its a yearly ritual for me when i hit the snow at Thredbo, i love the road, but as you can imagine in winter its quite sketchy, especially for me when I'm trying to keep 400hp down on the ground in my Silvia! Ill have to do it in my Zed one year, probably once its more reliable, as i can barely get it to start in my garage here in Sydney, let alone after 1 week being parked up on top of the mountain! Id love to hear more of the zed singing over the music though! Rudolf.

UPDATE 12.5.13 -- ELECTRICAL REPAIRS WELL SORTED! Now i might not know much about triple Webers, or as it seems, the difference between a down draft carb and a side draft carb ( i do now!) but what i do know about is electrical systems and wiring.... and Ive been ripping right in over the last month! So ive managed to do the following: 1. I ripped out all the old door locks and had them all re barreled, so now i have 1 key to open all doors instead of 4. 2. Fixed the alternator, replaced voltage regulator 3. Zedman240 was on the money, snapped speedo cable, so i had it repaired and now i have a speedo! 4.fixed the missfire in the motor with new dizzy cap and new leads: 5. ordered new Datsun original style keys to suit the locks, had them cut to suit 6. repaired the reverse lights, I'm a forklift mechanic, so now the Datsun has Toyota Forklift reverse lights and sockets/harness in it (oh blasphemy!) 7. repaired the non working brake lights, once again, forklift parts 8. repaired rear numberplate illumination. 10. put some elbow grease into the door cards 11. Fixed the fuel gauge and the volt gauge, seems to be most of my electrical gremlins are bad earths, or connections, the volt gauge was dead, so i ripped a few things apart and mashed things together, now it all works: Things to do: -next is tackle the oil pressure/water temp gauge, i earthed out the gauges with a test light, seems no issues with it, so ill check out the senders tomorrow, i also have a SAAS boss kit laying around, waiting for my Nardi Torino wheel to get in from overseas, then tackle rest of electrical issues too. Slowly making progress. Rudolf.

just read through the whole thread, looking great man! i am impressed with the interior, do you have a final photo of the seats installed in the car? i saw the rear seat in, looks the goods, but didn't see a photo with front seats in the car.

15 minutes.... 15 f**king minutes to park a car! the Cometary is absolute gold, as the guys are all drunk watching from their apartment window

As far as i am aware, the main differences are the weight, the 260z is slightly heavier, a 240z is pretty much bang on 1 tonne dry weight, if i recall the 260 is about 100kg heavier. It is stiffer, as the chassis rails extend further back. The tail lights are different, in a 240z they are integrated into the light assembly, in a 260 they are separate. Of course the engine is bigger, even though it made less power due to emission regulations at the time. And i think it has a rear sway bar added, don't think the 240z had them. To be honest, and this is MY opinion only, i would go for the car that has the least amount of rust. Because i don't have the skills to do rust repairs i would have to pay to get it all done. Im sure it is inevitable that they will both have rust in some places, and im sure to some its no drama. It depends on how mechanically minded you are. I had the same issue. When i bought mine, there were 2 cars i was interested in. 1 had alot of rust in it, but everything else was done, it had L28, triples, coilovers, the works. the other was stock and no rust. I chose the stocker, because i can do all the mechanical work myself, and wont have to pay for it, i would have had to pay to get the body work fixed on the other one.

Ive been following your build quietly for a while now. I really like how the car has turned out, its the type of look i hope i can achieve on my 2+2 one day! Cant wait for some more photo's. Rudolf.

Please move the deer crossing- One woman's topic on talk back radio.......

Oh how the shoe is on the other foot! Over on the Silvia Forums I'm usually the one acting like a jerk posting similar photo's and bashing noobs for not searching when its either SR vs CA or "how can i make my non turbo SR20 go faster" Haha now i know what its like being on the receiving end! And im sure your frustration is the same one i have, where noobs come in and ask questions that have been asked 1000x before! Yes, everything i read, people were saying to go triples and the debate was either 40's or 45's. But everything i read related to people with built motors, no one mentioned anything about triples on a stock motor. Im guessing if i get them set up and tuned, with smaller jetting or whatever sorcery is done, even though my motor is standard, it wouldn't overfuel? Ive heard the debate between 40's and 45's, and from what i can gather, the 40's are better suited to street work, 45's for all out power/top end? is this correct? And lastly, would i be best off buying the kit Retro Z mentions in his thread, some people mentioned there are better manifolds available than the redline kits, what would they be? So this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-Nissan-240Z-260Z-280Z-Weber-Carburetor-Kit-/271179817503?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f2393a21f&clk_rvr_id=471229996301 hang on a second they mention no chokes.... wait wut?

So i spent last night reading through all 13 pages in the fuel systems forum, and didn't really find a answer to what i was after. Here is my Dilemma, my 260z has standard flat top SU's. It is a nightmare to start first time round, need about 5 to 6 cranks for it to fire, then it misfires and runs on 2 cylinders for about 1 minute before it slowly clears up and comes good. any hint of throttle just floods the motor, the choke doesn't seem to do anything, however when warm seems to work. I have never worked on a Carby car before, so its all new to me. once warm car starts no drama. I have replaced rotor button, dizzy cap, leads and plugs, which has fixed a misfire issue i had under power, and apart from the dizzy and points which i have not replaced, the ignition side is fine. So i turn my attention to fuel side. Firstly everyone says that the best option is to replace the flat tops for round top non pollution gear carbs, and this is good and fine, as i do want to discard of the emissions gear to tidy up the engine bay. however my future plans for the car, being a project weekender, can be summed up by my philosophy: For every tree your Prius saves, my Datsun is going to kill 3. I wish to eventually have a fully built motor, big dirty cam, and triple carbs of some sort, with total disregard for noise pollution, emissions or fuel economy. So here is my dilemma, i am not at that stage yet, for now i want the car running right. My car had not been driven or started in 10 years prior to buying it, and Ive been slowly fixing it up to get it in a running state. I don't really see the point in getting the flat tops rebuilt or re kitted when i will be binning them in the long run anyway. Everyone says to get the round tops, but eventually i wish to to triples, possibly triple webers. so is the $200-$400 ebay asking price for a pair of round tops wasting my money, when i will most likely need to rebuild them anyway, and in a few years they get binned too? has anyone ever done a triple SU set up on a L series motor? I haven't read about any, so i guess its not worth it? Now i know Webers are now made in Spain, has anyone used these carbs? and how do they compare to the old Italian ones? There is a Redline conversion kit on ebay for $700, and the triple Weber kit is double the price. Is it worth it to buy the twin Weber conversion kit, put it on the car, enjoy, and when the time comes to rebuild the motor and go triples, i only need 1 more Weber and a Redline manifold which is what $400? Or is it a must to buy original Italian gear? there is a Italian Ebay seller selling reconditioned and re kitted Triple kits for around the $1000 mark, in the long run, is the dearest way the cheapest way? Thoughts? Rudolf.

Zac sold the yellow car late last year, When i bought my car off him, i was actually interested in the yellow one, but he said he sold it a few weeks earlier. My guess is that its a old advertisement not taken down yet, cant explain why it says victoria, because your right Chris, he is from Sydney. *Edit* Id put my money on a old ad not taken down, as his ad for my car is still up, and i bought it back in January. Rudolf.

Yeah probably not worth joining the Silvia forums, it has slowly gone downhill over the last 10 years, the parts and sales section is useless on there too. I was once upon a time able to part out a whole wreck in about 2 weeks, not anymore. Smart move not to bother putting the S15 dash in, i know its not a bolt in conversion, and you either need to trim the dash, or the door cards, and its a PITA to get it all working and looking right. Personally i don't mind the 6 speed, mine has 170 000km's on the clock behind 250kw at the wheels for the last 3 years and ive had no issues. I suggest getting a fuel pump upgrade even with just the boost increase for peace of mind, even if its only wound up to 14psi. Now days the pumps are getting abit long in the tooth, even in a 180sx, and ive had a pump die and lean out a SR, not fun at all. Rudolf.

Man this makes my blood boil as i had a similar experience! Many many moons ago one of my S13 Silvia's got written off. Back then as a 1st year apprentice i could only afford 3rd party fire and theft, so no full comp insurance for me. Accident wasn't my fault, my insurance company didn't want a bar of it, didn't want to help me in the matter, nothing, all they suggested is i wrote a letter of demand to other person. I paid 12k for the car, it was a SR20 turbo manual "K's" model, top of the line. The insurance assessor came out and valued the car at $5000. I went ape at him. That was their final offer. Back then, you could not even buy a non turbo automatic model for 5k, they were still around 7k mark. Pretty much every single Silvia for sale in the same spec as mine started at 9k for the worst of the worst, on carsales, ebay, trading post, the minimum was 9k for them. I emailed and faxed about 20 pages with around 30 advertisements of said cars on them, i even showed them redbook valued the car at 8.5k, 2.5k more than their "expert assessment" I took it as high as i could speaking to managers etc and their final offer was 5.5k and i could keep the car. I got f**ked over, not my fault and i lost half the value of my car, and no money to buy the same thing. Lucky the motor was still good, and i was able to buy a rolling gutted out shell for 4k, and i swapped over everything and got it working again, but the time and PITA that was, not fair. Trust me i feel your pain brother, i hope to god it all comes right for you, but sadly, i think its looking like you will get bent over too. Awesome isn't it, these things aren't your fault, and you end up getting shafted over it, insurance is to compensate you.... yeah right... Rudolf.

nah, cant beat ronal teddy bears for wheels. Rudolf.

UPDATE 7.4.13- Fusible link repair. So not much more done, my fusible links were abit old and ratty as the box no longer has a lid, so i ripped the old ones out, hit the posts with the dremil and wire wheel, and made some new link joints. According to the manual they should be different sizes, and the gauge of wire i used was way too big but meh. I smeared some decent electrical insulation jelly over it to stop corrosion. It Didn't fix any electrical issues, but at least now i can rule that out. Whipped out the multimeter and tested my Alternator, and out the back of "A" terminal with plug disconnected im getting 12.1v with the lights on, so need a new one of those.....

Hey nice to see these cars build up from scratch! And i like the S13 in the background, whats that got in it? Are they work equip 03's on the front? me likey Rudolf.

welcome mate! post up some photo's of your rig! keen to see it! Rudolf.

how not to drift, the sound of the impact is so satisfying! http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=WKbWB6-QGNU

i actually think that looks really really good! Now many confusions for people, is it a zed, is it a skyline, who knows! Rudolf.

broken links, post deleted - Rudi

crap it up all you want friend! old skylines are good in my books! welcome! Stay awhile and listen! there is plenty of useful information in here even for you! Rudolf.

Guy who used to live in a poor neighborhood, makes it big, picks up his old next door neighbor from her school, and records the reactions. pretty cool.

Yep, sure is that expensive. I'm in NSW, but i paid $780 for CTP green slip, and i believe my rego was around the $400 mark, because of course, in NSW, you have to pay yearly for your personalized plates too... because you don't actually own them, you "rent" them, yet you have to paid $250 or so to order them in the first place... So that's on my weekend car the dato, because i just bought it, but its the same for my daily driver, because i have personalized plates on the 200sx too! Marvelous! Rudolf.

I wont need a new latch, well i don't think i do. It all still works, its just that its very very stiff. If anything is the problem, it might actually be arm on the back of the key barrel. Im hoping i can remove the latch, soak it over night, and hopefully she will come loose. I was worried that if i remove the rail for window, it might either make the window drop, or put it out of alignment. I want to avoid this if i can, because ive once done the power window motor and regulator on my S15 Silvia door, and darn it the window rattles ever since, ive had the door skin off and on checking bolts about 10 times, no dice, annoys me to no end, hence why I'm a little apprehensive of removing the window and reg from the Dato. Maybe your right, i hope perhaps i can remove the bolts for the rail and slide the latch past it, ill give it a crack tomorrow! Rudolf.

awesome looking car mate, i noticed a few pages back, but didn't spot if someone asked, where did you get your over/under duel muffler from? If i recall didn't Monza produce them back in the day? but weren't they black/yellow? Rudolf.

Because its more JDM man! The same reason you see all the "hellaflush" Honda civic drivers with the "Shoshinsha mark" (the yellow and green leaf sticker, which actually represents learner drivers in japan). Its all about being JDM! Rudolf.