handsandwhich

You can use the kia door rubber in the hatch as well. It fits perfect and no trimming whatsoever is needed, it stays in one complete piece and needs no glue to stay in place.

I have a little 40amp portable unit, been using it for many years now and it is a valuable tool. An oxy set comes in handy when you don't have an air compressor available to run the plasma, but with the plasma you can also cut alloys where as you can't with the oxy and you can't heat things up with the plasma. So saying that, both have their time and place to be used but a plasma is a handy tool to have if you cut a lot of weird shaped or angled sheetmetal. I still find myself reaching for a grinder with cutoff wheel most of the time rather than setting up the plasma though.

A story from Adam Carolla, who was a host of a tv show called "the man show" (pretty good show btw!) talking about his experience with an old zed of his. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IryHbUyx6J4

Awesome! You should have asked for a test drive of the carbon one

A video of dry ice blasting which is coincidentally on a 240z.

I have seen videos of the dry ice method. Looks the goods but painfully slow. I wonder what the cost of doing a shell would be.

If you are going to sandblast, you will be left with a heck of a lot of stuff that will get lodged in under the motor that will be trapped there forever. Best to take it out completely so you can blow all the excess media out of there after it is done.

Both have their good and bad points but I choose sand (garnet) over soda. Reason being, it will remove bog and rust completely and leave the steel etched and ready to receive paint/primer. Soda, while being more mild and less chance of warping/damaging panels, leaves a film that then needs to be properly removed before you can paint over the surface. If you find someone that knows what they are doing, they can do the job using garnet with minimal damage to panels, but even then, I would not do the bonnet (due to it being so large and thin) or the inside of the roof either.

The person that put them on that blue car has very good taste! Hang on a second..... that's mine!

Correct, it's the slicktop ones that are rare. But the convertible ones are hard to find in manual form.

Good stuff, you don't charge double time for working on Sunday I hope!

Ha, amazing! I'll put my order in for a billet 240-260z shell.

Very impressive! Someone showing off their 5 axis cnc machine. Next step, make a complete engine out of one massive block of aluminium.

Nice, came out looking like glass. How many coats of clear went on?

The engineer has said that he has no problem with it. But I am also running pretty much the whole rear end from the 300zx as well. Brakes, axles, hubs etc.

Many people have done the conversion and I've done it as well. It definitely is not an easy bolt in swap. You can see in the pic where the subframe has to be notched out to get the diff to tuck in to the body. $50 is a bargain and I'd snap this up in a heartbeat if you were near me. $200-300 sounds about right. You should try selling on the 300zx auz forums. But as someone said, these are pretty bulletproof so not many go bang!

Will be hard to restore any manliness as I'm pretty sure anyone that gets in the car will either be wearing adult diapers or giggling like schoolgirls. The 6 was turned into an 8 by just welding a dab in the open section of the 6, then a die grinder to flatten it out, then buffed back.

Lucky you weren't working in your jocks (or naked) when you took that pic! Wouldn't blame you with the muggy weather we been having lately.

But should still be hella fun! Like rollerskating on an ice rink.

I don't know the background story on this car but it has raised a few eyebrows and questions from people that obviously know/knew? the registered owner. Saying that, looks like an awesome project to take over and complete but there is obviously some history/emotions behind this.

There are plenty of them in Aus and I think around 4000 were made overall. The turbo manual ones are apparently pretty rare though. Back when the z32's were first allowed to come into the country, a friend of mine brought two in and made an absolute killing on them. Then he decided to bring in another four, but by then everyone was onto the easy money to be made and there was a complete flood of them on the market and he couldn't even sell them for 3/4 of what he payed for them...... Cool story Bro! Here's a non turbo on carsales. http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/nissan-300zx-1993-10948735?cr=28&eapi=2&Page=2&silo=Stock&sort=default&Range=Price:Min,Max~1&__N=1216%201247%201252%201282%204294963846%204294963448&vertical=Car&distance=25

WTH! Peer group pressure caused the others too crash as well.

Do like this..... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DATSUN-KHGC110-240K-COUPE-/320806849392?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item4ab1940b70

I think he means the gauges are not on the right side, hence they are on the wrong side. They are on the left side (the right side) for Americans/Canadians but not on the right side for Aussies/Japs/UK Does that make sense?

When the diff was also mounted towards the front more as well? I guess if your car has had a minor hit or two over the years, this can cause the orientation of the bar and the holes to not line up properly either.