Roberto

Peter Hall in Lobethal. You will find his number in the white pages. He is the Adelaide Z expert....

The pic you have there NZeder is the MSA 6-2-1. I don't like them either. The 6-1 is attached below.... As far as a good exhaust shop being able to fix the resonance, they simply can't. The sound resonates through the cabin. The only fix is a smaller diameter exhaust. Trust me, I spent lots of money figuring this out the hard way.

One more thing to consider, is exhaust pipe diameter. A lot of different opinions here, but I strongly do not recommend over sizing the pipe for a street car. The 2000 rpm resonant boom seems to be experienced by everyone who goes for the 2.5 inch exhaust with there NA Zed. I had a 2.5 inch on my mild L26 and tried to do everything to get the boom to stop. Quieter tri-flow muffler, one, then two resonators near gearbox and it was always there and drove me crazy. Apparently it is caused by gases travelling too slowly (hence occurs at low rpm) and the only fix is a smaller pipe to speed up the gases. I went back to a 2inch pipe (one resonator and a straight-through muffler) and did not lose any power that I could feel and there is NO boom at all. For a serious street engine, then yes 2.5 for max. power but be prepared for the "you know what".

What is the quote for the Hurricane headers? Tuned-length would be what I consider a minimum in extractors, otherwise I would stick with a factory manifold. I do not see much difference in any of the tuned-length extractors available here. There are 2 different types on ebay and they are almost identical. ie 1 5/8 inch primaries, 2inch secondaries and 2 1/2 outlet. I have no experience with hurricane, but a pic on their website (for the patrol) looks very similar to the ones on ebay. See below The equal-length extractors, stahl, MSA 6-1 are meant to be a bit better. Whether it gains 1hp or 10hp over tuned-length, no one can really tell you on your application and whether it is worth the additional cost. When I replace mine, I will go for the MSA 6-1 landed in Aus for about $600 AUD.

I believe it is the opposite. Under hard acceleration, the toe (or toe-in) decreases. That is why it doesn't hurt to start off with a bit of extra toe. From my readings, only a couple of mm is suggested. +10mm is excessive and will hurt tyre life. I am sure for certain racing situations 10mm might be good but not for the street.

Welcome mate. Enjoy the Zed and the forum.

Just out of curiosity, which side had the 10mm toe? I hope this is not a purposely introduced factory setting.

Exactly the same situation I have found myself in. At my last wheel alignment after rebuilding my suspension, my rear right toe was +10.3mm and left was +1.4mm. I tried to ignore this since I wouldn't have known otherwise, but couldn't get it out of my head..... I bought the TTT adjustable control arms on ebay US and am fitting these to fix. I will be going with 2mm toe-in. I hate this stuff because I am mistrusting of most wheel alignment places to do the job properly.....

The New door skins I purchased didn't really fit that well so we thought we'd try to use the original skins. That's a worry. Where did you source the door skins that didn't fit well? Myself and others here would find this information valuable......

I have always liked the Datsun 2000 Roadster from the late '60s. Looks better than an MG, much more reliable and would be as easy to work on (probably even easier) than a Zed.

Not the case. Early 260Z's had flattops and non-vented bonnets.

You can get 260Z bonnet vents brand new from Nissan for $195 a pair. Another option is to get them second hand from ebay in the US. The 280Z's had them aswell. You might be able to get them a bit cheaper even with shipping.

I can say now it wasn't hard, but it did take a while. I made a cut-out template on thin cardboard by carefully measuring the vent and then decide exactly where I wanted the vents to be placed. I mounted them slightly further apart than the original 260Z vents if you look hard at the pics. After that, I traced out with a texta the vent hole to be made. Then I masked off with blue tape around the tracing and used plenty of towels etc to protect the rest of the car from flying sparks. Then with a grinder with a cut-off wheel slowly started the cut. This is the important part. Cut VERY, VERY slowly to avoid heat build-up which will buckle the bonnet. This is the time consuming part and it does take a while. When the rectangular hole is cut, drill your holes and mount the vent. Do not tighten up the nuts too tightly or it may cause buckling of the bonnet. The look will be slightly different than the original 260Z vented bonnets because there is no raised surface around the hole, but it still works. I can take more pics if you like. Just tell me what you want to see. Cheers

The late 260Z's had vented bonnets as standard. I believe Nissan still sells them new for less than $1000. Another option is to retro-fit the vents to non-vented bonnets. This is what I did with my early 260Z just recently.

Myself and several others on here (who are not mechanics) have changed there bushings themselves. It's not too hard, but you will find it tough without proper tools and a garage or space where it will be able to stay on stands for a while. You will need access to a press, propane or butane torch and a tension wrench. Good luck!

I got the following email reply from MSA. Roberto, Thank you for your email. You will want to set up the strut bar with the tension going out. When strut towers flex during heavy cornering, they flex in toward each other. The outbound tension helps to fully remove this flexing under load. Garrett Motorsport Auto 1139 West Collins Avenue Orange, CA 92867 (800)633-6331 Hope this helps for everyone. Thanks for input guys.

Ok then, go ahead. Give us the truths.....

I spent over 45mins searching the whole net without a definite answer. The instructions that came with it said to adjust it to apply a moderate amount of tension with the bar (rear). It doesn't specify in which direction though? ie pushing apart or pulling together. Does anyone know for sure? I have sent an email to MSA but not gotten a reply as yet. If i go neutral then the bar is loose due to the flexible joint setup. Appreciate any info. Cheers

There is one on ebay right now. Newly listed, rusty 240Z for $2500 "buy it now" or bid away..... Sounds like what you are looking for....

I am sure there will be lots of interest depending on price. What are you after?

I have just ordered a pair of Cobra Daytona 2 recline-able seats for my 260Z. They are light as a feather, comfy, good support and look good too. $699 each for nylon or $899 for Black Rock finish (more durable) from Revolution Racegear. Not sure about fitment in a car with a roll cage though.

This issue has been ongoing for quite some time and it's very frustrating. The SA government is so arrogant it thinks it knows best and argues it will keep hoons off the streets by banning this. Almost every large civilized city in the world has such motorsport facilities and their argument not only illustrates their arrogance, it shows the rest of Australia and the world how backward SA can be. I love Adelaide, but we need to get rid of the socialist "banning" of almost everything by the government to try and solve problems. I feel better now.....

I recently got a rear spoiler from alfa and was very happy with it. Fits nicely too. Yes, good prices, but can take about 4 weeks for them to make. Depends on urgency I suppose.

Hey mate, welcome!

I like beer too! Esp. when I don't need to drive Thanks MaygZ for offering to pick us up.....