Roberto

Try it yourself if you have the space, tools and confidence. It's not really that hard. If not, go to Peter Hall at Lobethal. You can find his number in the white pages.

Looks great Mick. Yeah, 235's are ok for the front but maybe on the small side for the rear. 245 40 17's for rear would be perfect.

Here is an new one for sale..... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/R200-diff-backing-plate-suit-Nissan-datsun-240z-300zx-/140706839096?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c2c7fa38

No, I haven't actually measured this with an instrument, but trust me it is very close. When I changed my steering rack bushings, the clamps nearly touched the engine. At the same time i upgraded my front sway bar to 25mm and it hit the oil pump. I spoke to MSA about this and they said I should replace my engine mounts as the old ones will have sagged over the years. I did this and everything clears but not by much. If you lower the crossmember and steering rack by the same amount as your engine you will be ok. As for the sway bar, that can be lowered a little bit too but best to take measurements on your own car as the 240Z sway bars were thinner than the 260Z bars. Good luck

If you attempt to lower the L series engine, you will have the engine sump hit the crossmember and steering rack. There is only about 5mm clearance to the steering rack clamps as is. Then you also have the risk of the oil pump hitting the sway bar.

The car looks really good. Nice touch.

Do you have the screw cap? give us a pic.

Very nice. Great colour

With your skills, you can do whatever you want Pete. I hope you find something soon that you enjoy and puts food on the table. The people in this club will certainly hope you continue to build hot PMC engines on the side.

No these are Earls fittings. I do not know of any low pressure AN fittings. Are you referring to the clamp style hose ends? If so, yes they are definitely cheaper. I did consider them but I am not really doing this to save money....They are not as sexy as proper AN right? Plus I only paid about $12 a fitting through Summit. Postage was cheap too. Speed shops here wanted triple that per fitting!

I have used rear strut tops you can have. These are from the early 260z and are the shorter type. PM me.

Good progess this week. Had SS brake lines made up and did some plumbing of the new fuel lines. Engine will be dropped in very soon.

Exciting. 2 more sleeps

Thanks guys, I have taken your advice. It looks ok and has a good seal because the firewall holds it all together.

Rob at the Z factory can do this. Problem for us is he is in Melbourne. If you can do this Ledge, I am happy to be your first sunroof removal customer.......

Hi All, I am trying to think of the easiest way to replace the perished wiring harness grommet in the firewall. Both ends of the loom have plugs much bigger than the groomet hole itself. Who has done this before? Please don't tell me to remove all of the wires from the plugs Cheers

It's best if the adapter is hubcentric to the bore and also has a wheelcentric lip. This way you don't just rely on the lugs to centre the wheel. This gives strength too. BenZed sells this stuff I beleive.

That is for the rear. The fronts are 73mm. Don't beleive the BS that is in the catalogues at wheel and tyre stores ! Yes, make sure they are hubcentric, esp the fronts. If not you will probably get steering wheel wobble.

Thanks Dimitri. I will do that.

Yes, thread revival. I am at the same point now. So in summary, positive from the battery terminal goes to the starter motor and negative terminal to the bellhousing. Is that it? Does there also need to be a connection from the chassis to the engine? I wish I had taken more pics before disassembly.......

Hi All, I need the hose that goes from the check valve to the inlet manifold. I know you can just use any hose, but i wanted the original type with the bends in it. Cheers. Roberto

Gareth, they are identical to the original ones but no engine or chassis number. It can be stamped on, but I won't just yet. I don't know if they have jap ones. Check out his website. http://zeddsaver.com/

Well, not quite L29 in, but some progress today. Am using SS bolts and nuts on everything. Also managed to source a new reproduction RS30 id plate from zeddsaver.

The flares look good too! too! Good luck with this. I was under the impression car had to be standard. Eg without flares

Thanks for the support guys. Well, I wasn't inspired by anything on TV tonight, so i gave it that light sand and applied 4 coats of satin black.......Still a bit shiny as it is still drying.