Roberto

Are you in need of the spindle pin or cotter pin bolt? I may have a spare spindle pin you can have. Pic would help.

Yeah. Why not? Brake, clutch and fuel lines are not that attractive ATM.

That's a good question as i had to put a bit of thought into this. The idea of removing all of the brake and clutch lines was not a pleasant one. :-\ Firstly you can remove virtually all of the engine electrics by unravelling the wiring loom and hanging off the fender as shown below. If you prefer you can try to paint behind the brake and clutch lines or if they are old and ugly like mine, just paint them also. The good thing about POR15 rust paint is that it is self levelling and will not leave brush marks. That means you can paint around things like MC's firewall grommets etc with a fine brush. Some people prefer the engine bay to be body colour, but if you choose black you can respray the car without ever having to worry about under the bonnet again.

Hey Garvice. I started using paint stripper and found it to be slow and not overly effective, so i switched to using these wire wheels on the drill. Much more satisying than paint stripper and better results. The trick is to reverse the drill often.

Good point. I might as well have it fixed properly now and forget about it. Yes they wil probably be very close to the strut tower. Pete says the ram tubes can be cut at the base to make them a bit shorter if needed. Yes, I have rust at the bottom of the fenders and would rather not open this can of worms. I have now taken the spoiler off and can now get to the back of this area. It will make it easier to fix properly. My brother had a look at the rust today and thinks an arc welder is not the go with such thin metal. I will take you up on your offer Mick when you have recovered from your surgery. How did it go? Other than the rusted area's, engine bay is now ready for paint.

Looks good. What colour scheme will you be going with?

Yes, that's PORN alright Thanks for the offer Tim. Let's wait and see hehehe Yeah, it was only going to get worse and worse. True. I think the fiberglass or fiberfill idea is not good since it needs to support the bonnet hinge.

Good luck with your surgery Mick. I will try and have it done before then but if not, I will hire your services again. No !. My brother has an arc welder and can use it, but probably not best for the hole near the nose cone area as it's so thin. Would fiberglass be a (non dodgy) solution if i cut out the rusted area? I was not planning on removing the fenders for a few years until i respary the entire car. Not fun when unexpected, huh. Ignorance is bliss. I understand the urge to dismantle everything and do a complete rotisserie restoration now. :'(

They have come up really nicely, Peter. Awesome. I needed this good news right now. I was cruising through my engine bay "freshen-up" and feeling like a rock star till I encountered RUST, and not just the surface kind. This will set me back a little while. Any mobile welders in SA??

No worries, I will give it to the end of the day. Luv your race footage. Very high revving motor. Impressive.

Hi there. Just seeing if i can get one locally rather than from the US. Willing to pay $20. Cheers

I agree that it could be a worn or cracked diff mount. Upon acceleration the nose of the diff goes up, but when you back off the accelerator it goes back down. If the mount is stuffed the nose could hit the crossmember and give a bang.

Very Nice. You certainly have a way with the camera.

Yeah, I think that's good advice Dimitri. I wouldn't get much $$ for the longblock anyway. Of course Is your engine in and running?

I pulled the L26 out tonight with my older brothers help. I am not sure whether to sell it or keep it as it is the original motor. I will hold onto it for a little while till I need the room. Time to get stuck into the engine bay now......

Are you reading this Peter?? You have been doing it the hard way all these years !

I agree. Tell em they're dreamin.

I collected a long awaited surprise from the post office today. A set of 44mm mikuni's with 39mm chokes from the USA. I will send them to Peter for his "treatment" and another engine dyno run soon. I have also commenced bracing my garage for removal of the existing L26 with block and tackle. I plan to paint the engine bay with POR-15 and a brush with the engine out. Has anyone done this before? What kind of results do you get? I am not after a show finish, just flat black and clean will be fine.

No it's not. Long motor is block and head. Short motor is block only.

Yeah I am in favor of dumping karma too.

Looking good. What cam will you be running? What size chokes on your mikuni's?

To anyone who has always wanted there engine rebuilt or modified, the time is NOW ! Peter will get snapped up very quickly.....

I am with Shannon's and they don't really care what mod's your car has had as long as you tell them when you join and update them. If they are informed and they choose to insure your car with those mods, then they cannot refuse on the grounds of legality. When I was running 17" wheels with adapters and having no bumpers they were fine with it. I got the impression they are more interested in insuring someone who will luv and care for there car rather than the legal side of your car. After all they are insurance people not policemen.

Yeah, I agree that CCTV is no guarantee. It may help though, but if a thief knows you have CCTV he will just cover his face. Since there are never any guarantees (despite the best security) you must have insurance. The trick i think is to make it as hard as possible so that they go away and steal the porsche down the road......

The wider flares go on the rear. I think you are ok with that. Just make sure the buldge faces forward on the front flares too. It is hard to tell with your photos. Good luck. Also don't forget the welting.......