260DET

Have ordered a set of race spec coilovers made specifically for the Z31 so I'm pretty excited about that, other than bolting them in the fronts have to be welded onto the lower part of the stock struts. The term 'race' is over used these days but these seem to be real, comparison dynograph charts with Ohlins below, what do the experts think?

The point that I've been trying to (badly) make is that there is something else wrong if anyone is having severe problems with a properly set up LSD. Sure going to a locker may mask the problem and appear to fix it but there is more to it than that. If a car handles badly in any way, including under heavy braking, then logically the first thing to look at is the suspension and it's alignments, keeping in mind that usually a change in alignment will have more than one effect including those you don't want. It's all a balancing act with suspension settings. As for diffs then yes, the suspension has to be set up to suit the type of diff eg the first requirement with a Torsen type is to make sure both rear wheels are always on the ground, a requirement obviously not required with a locker which means that for a start a rear anti roll bar may be used.

Knowing what the car is capable of in the hands of a top driver is a good point and a great benchmark. I'd happily hand mine over for that purpose although it still to some degree involves a personal preference. Where is that video? The only way I know is to upload to YouTube and then link it here.

Thanks for the info on your rear brakes, agree with your analysis. PS like the big red spot on the side of the Toyamota.

As Jason said a bit of toe out at the front may be needed to get a spooled car to turn in which ironically may bring back the former instability under brakes and a general tendency to wander around a bit. Personally I don't like making a change that will likely be negative too when there are other options but as always there is the budget. Sounds like with a spool it's up to the driver to maximumise the benefit and cope with the negative.

Speaking of weight and brakes, I'm seriously looking at using two piece rotors on Project Z31, mainly for the lower unsprung weight benefit plus less power wastage in accelerating. The obvious concerns are cost and replacement availability but it just seems to be something worth doing for the performance benefits. Agree with your thoughts on the transmission plus who wants a breakage at high speed? As for a handbrake, no Wilwood park brake option available?

Sorry, I don't know of anyone who uses one in a Zed. Did John Bowe recommend using one?

Good point hmd, scratch that idea.

Yes, Steve is the man to see about your diff in Brisbane.

Even a hoist service by itself with a bench or two should have takers, apartment living city people wanting to work on their cars but offering loose tools would be too hard to manage I think. Maybe display some of your Z odds and ends too Gav, could be the start of a part time business. Importantly, are we there yet?

Parked upside down hanging from the roof? Batmobile!!!!

Have bought a diff from Peter so presently am all diffed up.

I've always found that having the right gear available in every situation to be most important, that and not over revving the engine on the fastest part of the circuit. Obviously the diff ratio is relevant for the latter but otherwise, providing the 'right gear' aspect is satisfied, the diff ratio is irrelevant.

Some brilliant work being done here, I won't pretend to understand what is going on in the post above though

4.3 is a bit low for your car isn't it? The Zed with a 3.9 and VG30DET at Lakeside used to go through the kink in 5th at 200kph+ so I would have thought no lower than 4.1 for yours, it should be faster too. For general information then it looks like the Z31 uses a standard type long nose R200 diff, ratios are 3.545 for the turbo and 3.7 NA.

It's a long nose type, the two large studs at the back are 85mm apart. Pic below.

The Cherokee which is really a mid sized SUV has two rows of seats, there is no interference from the wheel wells because they are further back. From armrest to armrest it measures 1320mm wide.

Jason, the best STA suspension mods I've seen are made here in AU for 1600's, there is not a lot available in the US for the Z31 that changes the operation of the suspension like is available for P cars and BMW's. There is no rush for this build so I want to get everything sorted as much as possible, I hate doing fabrication mods after a car is built too, build it properly in the first place so that the basics are right and only bolt on stuff is maybe required later, like say a brake upgrade.

Which should be a 3.7:1 ratio, 37:10 teeth. Must be in sound condition, minor oil leaks OK, PM best.

Still ripping junk/weight out of it, somewhere under there is a half decent body with plenty of stiffening potential, it has enough wiring in it to connect up a small town. Anyway, besides the boring stuff I've been thinking and researching interesting things, like what mods to do to the dreaded semi trailing arm suspension. It could be modded the usual ways but where is the fun in that? So how about copying the Group C Bluebird arrangement which itself was derived from the OE semi trailing arm setup. What is that I hear you ask? Susprog representation below.

From my experience the problem with re chrome plating plastic parts is removing all the old plating so that the plastic surface can be polished and prepared for replating. If you think about it a rough surface will result in a rough finish which is what happened in my case.

For a 'plonker' Ledge you seem to be doing OK, I should have mentioned that the sequential has an obvious advantage for a driver in that the actual physical shifting process is simplified compared with a H pattern. Anything that makes driving simpler, particularly with a power monster, is a good thing

Sounds like some are worried about the performance of the top Zed/driver combos if they have the eligibility people getting that keen, bit of a back handed compliment there. Air extractor type (modded) wheels? Project Mu pads? I've had good results with Carbotech pads, they certainly do stop. Cryogenic treated rotors?

Very nice tail lights, looking boss.

I suspect but don't know for sure that the type of brake pad used can affect rotor temps. Would it be legal to have a two piece setup using the same overall dimensions?