260DET

Well, that's a story and a half Love the black multi spoke wheels on the purple car, they look like a modern version of the Wantanewbe classics.

The plebs just don't understand do they

When I did mine it was as you describe with bolted on 90 degree brackets which of course gives some length adjustability, a good thing. Seems the simplest and best way if using spherical bearings in any form. What exactly did you have in mind?

3.9 or lower (numerically higher) are the ones in demand, 3.9 LSD's in good nick were selling for $1,000+ years ago. Like a lot of this sort of S30 stuff the prices can only go up, particularly for a diff that has not been made new for a long time.

I guess that it would be possible to skim them round again, providing the flat spots are not too low. But who does that and cost? Looks like the OP will do anything (undo anything?) to get attention lol

Yes, watch out for two piece Simmons as far as clearing big brakes go, their centres are often too small in diameter so the rims are stepped down to fit which reduces the ID. PS Help the OP out please, sounds like he may do something desperate otherwise

Gets the weight back, a PS pump and mount has to be added to a crate engine. less complication and space needed with no reservoir, custom lines or a cooler required, potential oil leaks avoided, dash control of steering effort, less power loss.. Overall weight I'm not sure but probably a bit less but the weight is a bit higher and it needs a fair bit of power to operate. And of course here the steering shafts have to be matched up and a support bearing installed although being custom the steering wheel has been able to be repositioned. Besides I like to try new things although often that gets me into trouble

Try http://www.datsport.com/product-menu.htmltoo.

If you can upload your video from your camera to your computer it will be in the form of a file. To upload that file to YouTube then this is the page you need there https://www.youtube.com/upload

Electric steering is now mounted internally using some fabricated parts including a new 30x30 dash bar and retaining the stock pedal box, drive by wire accelerator pedal is also mounted. The supplied steering assistance variation adjuster will be dash located eventually, the supplier wired that. In all one of those awkward, time consuming jobs that at the start is a bit of a 'will it all fit' adventure. Now to remove it all, finish welding and paint the OE unpainted pedal box. Obligatory pic shows the steering motor in the middle right behind the dash bar..

Great read containing some interesting procedures and fixes, nice work. On the subject of removing bitumen sheet, dry ice is much quicker and does a better job than the Makita vibrating tool. It's amazing, some how or other the frozen sheet just comes off cleanly in large pieces.

Needs a bigger turbo lol.

My preference is to have it within reach while belted in, on top of the transmission tunnel is good. I don't like having it in front of the driver's seat in case it comes loose and gets in the way of the pedals.

Radiator and fan mounts all done so that can be put aside until assembly time, next job is mounting the DBW accelerator pedal and modifying the pedal box so the electric steering mechanism clears. Pic shows the fan which came with the radiator properly mounted not using those plastic retainers which thread through the core. Pads on the bottom sit inside cups welded to the body while the arms near the top bolt on. Yay, the first fabrication job is done, progress

Just goes to show, don't believe anything on the intrawebs

Door handle spring?

How about getting that writing machined right off? Only semi serious, the motor looks great and will be a crowd puller in place.

Kings offer a huge range of coilover type springs, their cattledog is online.

Harder front, the figures you have quoted are at both ends of the scale for fronts. With good shocks like revalved to suit Bilsteins you can comfortably run harder springs than usual otherwise keep to the softer end of the scale.

Seeing that the body is at rest it's a good time to cut things so some of the top radiator support panel has been removed, mainly to lower it for easier engine removal purposes, the replacement is some 25x25x1.6 square tube which will be welded into place. New radiator is a V8 Commodore all aluminium replacement which will be mounted vertically and not at an angle like the original. It's a little bit smaller in size, not much though, but the core is about twice as thick so with proper venting it should do the job.

US supplier talks in metric, Kings talk in Imperial, work that out lol. As you know Jason it's important that any dynamic suspension changes are favourable eg more camber on bump, more toe on rebound. That's what I will be working on using Susprog or whatever, the suspension design that will be used facilitates such adjustments. With the S30's strut suspension dynamic camber is no problem but dynamic toe is, it is not available. Which is maybe why some of the S30 racers use a lot of static toe.

Will be using King springs Jason, supplier suggests 8/6 in kg to 10/8 F/R with their valving, I'll start with 8/6 which is similar to what the 280ZX has. The rear suspension itself will have it's measurements run through Susprog or else I'll get some graph paper and do it the old fashioned way. I like working out all this shit, it's part of the reason for doing this project.

There will be some secret squirrel custom work done on the rear suspension, using the OE stuff as a base. Details of that will emerge in due course. At the moment I'm just happy to get some good bolt on stuff as a start.

Pretty impressive brakes, being off a P car a good assortment of pads will be readily available too. Another way to go with suspension is to get a well made set from another supplier, like Arizona Z, and then if necessary get MCA to do their magic if you want them improved.

doppelganger